I do find a lot of information and discussions about the rear hub bearings, but I don't seem to be able to find info on the bearings used in front.
Does anyone has (SKF) bearing reference numbers for those?
Thanks,
Kid.
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From memory, they are very close to the 65 Mustang front bearings, IF NOT the same bearings.
You certainly CAN convert the hub to the Mustang stile bearing retainer set up with the cotter pin and forget about worrying that the retaining nut is going to loosen up on you.
For what you are going to do with your car you should probalby consider that?
I already did it, but that was quite a while ago and don't remember specifically the bearing numbers but I seem to think everything was straight 65-69 Mustang components.
The hubs and rotors will even bolt up. The issue in using the 67-68 Shelby Trans-Am big Ford-Thunderbird brake calipers was simply the differences in the caliper bolt center lines.
The Pantera uses the typical European 3" center to center and the US uses a 5" center to center bolt pattern.
So as you probably had discovered you need an "adapter".
While I am thinking of this, there are also a few aluminum 4 piston "Thunderbird" calipers and "replicas" around that are relatively reasonably price, the Girlings even in iron are ridiculously expensive since you are actually sourcing them from other limited production makes like Aston Martins.
You won't find any aluminum versions of the iron brakes that exist or were ever made by Girling. Not in 4 piston calipers you won't.
There are a few US Panteras that were raced here back in the day that have the Shelby Mustang Trans Am brake set ups adapted to them.
The ONLY drawback I can think of with converting to the 65-69 Shelby Mustang Trans Am front is that with the development of wider profile racing tires, the front spindle on the hub suddenly became inadequate.
Ford fixed this by increasing the outside diameter of the spindle on the 69-1/2 hub and put into production on the 70 Mustang Boss 302 and about the second half production of the 69-70 Shelbys.
That pretty much fixed the spindle failure rate.
The front Pantera dimension are engineering copies of the 65 Mustang, translated into metric dimensions and given to European engineers to modify those into production parts, whether actually using existing production parts like the wheel bearings or sourcing components out of local suppliers.
To my knowledge, the Pantera race cars never got the same upgrade to the spindle dimensions that the Mustangs did and what I find unusual is that virtually all of the Pantera race teams had no idea of the relationship between the Mustang and the Pantera.
Their reaction to it to me is, WTF are you talking about jerk-o? This is a Detomaso, not a Ford Mustang? Really? Makes me wonder who the jerk-o really is...and I don't think it's me but then again, a real jerk-o would never realize what's really going on around them right? LOL!
You certainly CAN convert the hub to the Mustang stile bearing retainer set up with the cotter pin and forget about worrying that the retaining nut is going to loosen up on you.
For what you are going to do with your car you should probalby consider that?
I already did it, but that was quite a while ago and don't remember specifically the bearing numbers but I seem to think everything was straight 65-69 Mustang components.
The hubs and rotors will even bolt up. The issue in using the 67-68 Shelby Trans-Am big Ford-Thunderbird brake calipers was simply the differences in the caliper bolt center lines.
The Pantera uses the typical European 3" center to center and the US uses a 5" center to center bolt pattern.
So as you probably had discovered you need an "adapter".
While I am thinking of this, there are also a few aluminum 4 piston "Thunderbird" calipers and "replicas" around that are relatively reasonably price, the Girlings even in iron are ridiculously expensive since you are actually sourcing them from other limited production makes like Aston Martins.
You won't find any aluminum versions of the iron brakes that exist or were ever made by Girling. Not in 4 piston calipers you won't.
There are a few US Panteras that were raced here back in the day that have the Shelby Mustang Trans Am brake set ups adapted to them.
The ONLY drawback I can think of with converting to the 65-69 Shelby Mustang Trans Am front is that with the development of wider profile racing tires, the front spindle on the hub suddenly became inadequate.
Ford fixed this by increasing the outside diameter of the spindle on the 69-1/2 hub and put into production on the 70 Mustang Boss 302 and about the second half production of the 69-70 Shelbys.
That pretty much fixed the spindle failure rate.
The front Pantera dimension are engineering copies of the 65 Mustang, translated into metric dimensions and given to European engineers to modify those into production parts, whether actually using existing production parts like the wheel bearings or sourcing components out of local suppliers.
To my knowledge, the Pantera race cars never got the same upgrade to the spindle dimensions that the Mustangs did and what I find unusual is that virtually all of the Pantera race teams had no idea of the relationship between the Mustang and the Pantera.
Their reaction to it to me is, WTF are you talking about jerk-o? This is a Detomaso, not a Ford Mustang? Really? Makes me wonder who the jerk-o really is...and I don't think it's me but then again, a real jerk-o would never realize what's really going on around them right? LOL!
Bearings: LM11949 and LM67048
Races: LM11910 and LM67010
Races: LM11910 and LM67010
Thank you 
In an attempt to make life easier for me, I bought the bearings from one of the vendors, together with a bunch of other stuff - and I was so stupid to forget to ask what brand they were... 
And indeed, they are all cheap Chinese crap - in particular the front ones are bad 
So, they did end all up in the garbage bin, and I'll go out for reference quality, i.e SKF or Timken.
Should be no problem to get all of them around here :-)
And indeed, they are all cheap Chinese crap - in particular the front ones are bad So, they did end all up in the garbage bin, and I'll go out for reference quality, i.e SKF or Timken.
Should be no problem to get all of them around here :-)
Mangustas also use the same bearings. There are seals that can be used on the backs of the bearings if desired (not really necessary if you keep the amount of bearing grease reasonable), and I still make infinitely adjustable spindle nuts for both early (one rt-hand thread & one left-hand thread), and late Panteras (both right hand thread). Still working on a new design that will fit the Mangusta with its odd cast-aluminum dust covers.
quote:Originally posted by Bosswrench:
...I still make infinitely adjustable spindle nuts...
Link (or more info please)
Ordered all bearings locally (Timken and SKF).
Got some already, the rest by the end of next week. Ordered the wider bearings for the rear.
The one thing still missing are the seals. Need to go back to the shop with an example to be sure I get the right ones.
They don't come cheap down here these bearings...lol Anyways, Chinese crap is a no-go for me, and am actually surprised a US company sells Chinese goods - go figure...
Got some already, the rest by the end of next week. Ordered the wider bearings for the rear.
The one thing still missing are the seals. Need to go back to the shop with an example to be sure I get the right ones.
They don't come cheap down here these bearings...lol Anyways, Chinese crap is a no-go for me, and am actually surprised a US company sells Chinese goods - go figure...
Hmm, I think they sold me the Timken sets as separate parts, rather than as sets. Need to go back to that shop anyway (and have a talk... )
)
Got all of the bearings now (front and rear), but still need to have the seals, as I seem to have trouble to find them...
Got once a set from one of the vendors, but those are not of the rubber type I wish to use :-/
Will have to check Andy's link :-)
Got once a set from one of the vendors, but those are not of the rubber type I wish to use :-/
Will have to check Andy's link :-)
Yep, that's what I mean with "rubber" type
I got these once from a vendor - me not happy with these
I got these once from a vendor - me not happy with these
quote:I got these once from a vendor - me not happy with these
There is NOTHING wrong with those seals. They will seal just fine. They are not sealing a liquid, they are sealing grease. That is the same style seal you will get from Federal Mogul... But, I know we all have our own preferences...
A rubber seal wil have a better fit (and seal). They do have to seal liquid too btw, a liquid called water... And interesting, rubber can't rust.
I do know "some" things about gears, bearings, and seals, too bad only I can't source my stuff from any of my company's (ZF, yes those gearboxes) vendors... ;-)
I do know "some" things about gears, bearings, and seals, too bad only I can't source my stuff from any of my company's (ZF, yes those gearboxes) vendors... ;-)
Those are the seals that are used. They are not rubber. They are some type of viton alloy.
They keep out water, dirt and other debris.
That is all that they need to do. You do not need parts from NASA for this.
Stop looking for something that does not exist. Off course if you insist....
They keep out water, dirt and other debris.
That is all that they need to do. You do not need parts from NASA for this.
Stop looking for something that does not exist. Off course if you insist....
quote:A rubber seal wil have a better fit (and seal). They do have to seal liquid too btw, a liquid called water... And interesting, rubber can't rust.
I do know "some" things about gears, bearings, and seals, too bad only I can't source my stuff from any of my company's (ZF, yes those gearboxes) vendors... ;-)
No water is going to pass by those seal body's. They also will not rust in the time they are in service. Why stress over such a trivial part. Just install them and forget about it.