Front Trunk Recarpet

Here is a link to what I did with mine.

http://www.markscars.ca/Pantera_Projects_2.html

If/when I do it again, I will use different material than the felt sold by Hall/Wilkinson etc. Mainly for improved durability.

One caution about using the self-adhesive stuff is that I found it necessary to "form" the felt/carpet over my knee to get it to contour nicely on the inner fenders. Something with a rubber or adhesive backing may not form over compound curves very nicely.

Honestly, the patterning/trimming was the hardest part (well, after cleaning off the old crap/rust/glue etc.). I pre-fit and trimmed everything before glueing and it went pretty well. Removal of the brake lines, pedal box plate, vacuum booster were required to tuck everything under as it was originally.

The results are worth the trouble though. (and, yes, I know the battery shut-off should be on the negative terminal, but I have short arms...)

Good luck!
Mark

Beautiful job.

Which part # from M/C? Is it called "Firm Gray" ?

Part number 8770K9. Then select black.

The width is 32". max length is 48" so that's what I got, around $40.00 I don't know for sure if it's enough but think so.

Mark: How many pieces is your installation? It looks less than the original. What is it, 5 on the original?

quote:

What is it, 5 on the original?

Yes, 5 pieces on the original. The bottom piece goes in last.

John

Nice job Mark! I think I saw a speck of dust hovering nearby. That truly looks incredible.

You had me fired up to do it until the "removal of brake lines" and components. But that's what separates mere perfectionism from a medical condition.

Mark,
That really does look fantastic!! I have done several trunks and they never come out looking that nice.
Will have to follow your lead.

Thanks for the positive comments. Yes, it is a 5-piece set and as John notes the bottom is last. The pieces I got were very roughly cut and were certainly not ready to install. Unfortunately I don't know who supplied it originally as I got it in a big box of parts I bought ages ago. Based on many of my recent parts-purchasing experiences, I doubt that what one buys today will be much different.

As for the Dust that Mr Hudson thinks he sees, I can assure you that it is just the glint of flash off the pixie-dust I sprinkled throughout to make it look "just-so"...

Actually, as I said to Garth, I don't go for perfection, just a consistent level of detail and finish. Making everything perfect to satisfy some Pebble Beach Judge isn't really something I care that much about. It all started with replacing the old, tired rad with a new aluminum unit and as many Pantera projects go, I figured "while I'm in there..." I was really just trying to clean it up so it all looked consistent when I opened the front hood.

Mark

Just now started this project, and I can say definitely do not use adhesive backed material. Once you peal it off and start positioning it, it sticks to itself, and wrinkles. I had to throw the majority of it out. Good for a tool drawer, not for vertical curved surfaces. Had to cut it up in smaller sections. Not ideal. What you need is a slow drying paste so you can slide the pieces around until you have them positioned. I should have seen this coming.

You need to cut the pieces first, then apply the adhesive, then use a wall paper roller to iron the wrinkles out.

Over cut the pieces about an inch on each seam. Then use a sharp utility knife (sheet rock knife) to fit the seams.

I found that using indoor/outdoor carpet adhesive, dabbed on with a 2" brush works really well.

It dries at the correct rate so that you can use it to hold the carpet in place in the center of the piece and work the carpet to where you want it.

Don't wait to get the wrinkles out until later. The stuff sets up in a matter of minutes.

This must be the type of adhesive the factory used? It holds the carpet in tight like it is molded to the car.

You need about a quart to do the job and you can get it in Home Depot for about $12 a quart.

It is not a liquid and not a gel. It is more like a paste.


There is another process that I have seen to press the carpet into place in shapes like this but it involves either small marbles or shot (bee-bees or buck shot).

You would need to have enough of either to fill the compartment completely and it is probably a 50 gallon drum of either. The rear truck would need two drums. Good luck on finding those.

The trunk can be a depressing part of your car especially if it has been used / abused, bad material and years of neglect can leave a problem.
The good news it can be a source of pride with little cost. The first thing to do is find the local auto upholstery supplier.First pull the old carpet out, mine came out easily and required no additional treatment. When you get to the upholstery shop, ask for trunk fabric it comes in a variety of colors, I used grey, the other item you need is upholstery adhesive it comes in a spray can and is designed for the job. The trunk fabric is really EASY to work with as it conforms to the compound curves of the trunk and can be fitted and then marked with chalk before cutting , insuring a perfect fit.I started with the fender blisters, then one piece for the floor and up the front of the tub, the material clings to the metal and smooths with your hand, finally the rear area and break booster. The results will give you a smile deserved and all for about $50.00

Well I've just about got it finished, but I found it very difficult. I just used a couple of small bottles of contact cement, but getting the seams to blend together is not easy. I'm using Wilkinson's material. I don't like it, but I couldn't find the original felt without adhesive. No matter, it does look allot better.

The Weldwood Indoor/outdoor Carpet Adhesive, is what you want.

It holds whatever you use very tight and as a result makes it easier, not easy, but easier to fit the individual pieces together and trim them since they don't slide around.

There are all kinds of material available but the material you want is thicker. It is about 1/4" thick.

It is much thicker than speaker enclosure material.

The best material for this is the boat, or marine carpet.

It is half way between felt and real carpet. It is cheap too.

I don't remember how many pieces I had to cut for the front, but the rear needs to be done in 5 pieces.

The "firewall/bulkhead, the wheel arches (2) and the floor. That's four I count for the front.

In the back it is the two wheel arches, the front and rear bulkheads, then the floor.

This material does not stretch so that is really the only way you can do it.

The floor is the last to go in and it sort of fits like a floor mat, but cut tight to the intersections.