Does anyone have a working "spare" Hazard Switch that is for sale? Both PIM and Wilkson are out of stock with no idea when they'll get more.
Thanks!
George
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George,
I bought one from this seller.
http://tinyurl.com/Hazard-Switch
If you need to drive the car before the new switch arrives, a jumper wire can be used so that the turn signals work. Locate the nylon connector for the hazard switch, and separate the two halves. The jumper will be placed in the wire loom half of the connector (not the half that goes directly to the switch).
If your wiring has a yellow AND a yellow / black wire, place a jumper between the yellow and the red wires. Use a female spade connector at each end of the jumper wire.
If your wiring has ONLY a yellow OR ONLY a yellow / black wire (i.e. only one wire, but not two), jumper that wire to the red wire in the connector.
This jumper only goes in the nylon connector half that is connected to the car's wire loom. The will be NO connection to the nylon connector half that goes to the hazard switch.
This will allow you to drive the car and have the turn signals operational.
John
I bought one from this seller.
http://tinyurl.com/Hazard-Switch
If you need to drive the car before the new switch arrives, a jumper wire can be used so that the turn signals work. Locate the nylon connector for the hazard switch, and separate the two halves. The jumper will be placed in the wire loom half of the connector (not the half that goes directly to the switch).
If your wiring has a yellow AND a yellow / black wire, place a jumper between the yellow and the red wires. Use a female spade connector at each end of the jumper wire.
If your wiring has ONLY a yellow OR ONLY a yellow / black wire (i.e. only one wire, but not two), jumper that wire to the red wire in the connector.
This jumper only goes in the nylon connector half that is connected to the car's wire loom. The will be NO connection to the nylon connector half that goes to the hazard switch.
This will allow you to drive the car and have the turn signals operational.
John
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Years ago my hazard switch button would not stay in causing the hazard lights to stay on so I just glued it in with clear crazy glue. It is still there in the dash looking fine although I can no longer turn them on. Who needs it anyway!
Is't the hazard switch a BMW 2002/Alfa part?
http://www.international-auto....id=2555&posid=869811
I have also seen a story about adjusting the slack of the springs inside the switch.
http://www.international-auto....id=2555&posid=869811
I have also seen a story about adjusting the slack of the springs inside the switch.
George, some hazard switches can be repaired. There are two types; one (late '72) has a sheet metal cage holding the two parts together. Bending tangs allows the two parts to separate. Inside you find a spindly arm with a protrusion on the end. This protrusion rides in a cam-slot cut into the wall of one part of the switch; when you push the button, the arm traces the slot and rotates the switch attached on the far end, connecting various wires. What happens is, wear allows the protrusion to pop out of its slot. The fix: shim the arm outboard with a thin piece of cardboard (I used a piece of a Hall business card) to provide a little more pressure. Others have accomplished the same by tightening a small hose clamp around the body, slightly denting the side of the switch in.
The other type switch (early '71) uses 7 plastic tabs in indents to hold the parts together, so disassembly takes a complex 7-arm detent-squeezer, or an end mill to cut them off! The internal design of this switch is different so the shimming or hose clamp do not work, once you splt the body. Again, wear in the plastic from constant spring pressure is the cause. I don't do plastic micro-welding.
I also found that a '70s Alfa hazard switch is virtually identical to our switches and will work in Panteras. The contact connection lettering in back is the only difference. The red light cover, bulb and outer switch ring interchanges with our switches. A Nov '06 POCA article (illustrated) described this adaption in detail. New Alfa switches are available from several on-line sources for about what Wilkinson charges (when he has them), or from a scrapyard considerably cheaper.
The other type switch (early '71) uses 7 plastic tabs in indents to hold the parts together, so disassembly takes a complex 7-arm detent-squeezer, or an end mill to cut them off! The internal design of this switch is different so the shimming or hose clamp do not work, once you splt the body. Again, wear in the plastic from constant spring pressure is the cause. I don't do plastic micro-welding.
I also found that a '70s Alfa hazard switch is virtually identical to our switches and will work in Panteras. The contact connection lettering in back is the only difference. The red light cover, bulb and outer switch ring interchanges with our switches. A Nov '06 POCA article (illustrated) described this adaption in detail. New Alfa switches are available from several on-line sources for about what Wilkinson charges (when he has them), or from a scrapyard considerably cheaper.
I got one lately from Wally in CT, pm me for his coordonnates
quote:Originally posted by Odin:
Is't the hazard switch a BMW 2002/Alfa part?
http://www.international-auto....id=2555&posid=869811
I have also seen a story about adjusting the slack of the springs inside the switch.
I have the 2002 switch in my car, have for the last 3 years or so, no problem in installation, function, look. Got it from International
quote:I bought one from this seller. http://tinyurl.com/Hazard-Switch
That's a great price! About 60% of what the Pantera and BMW vendors were charging just a couple years ago.
quote:Originally posted by garth66:
That's a great price! About 60% of what the Pantera and BMW vendors were charging just a couple years ago.
Yeah and they were cheaper still at around $30 for a while, then the seller realized there was another market when Larry Stock purchased all 10 in one auction as they were cheaper than his wholesaler source.
Julian
Hi guys,
Thanks for all the helpful information. The switch does work. I have a piece of my business card wedged under it to keep it from popping out. Two time out to the garage now with the relays clicking and a dead battery.
Thanks for all the helpful information. The switch does work. I have a piece of my business card wedged under it to keep it from popping out. Two time out to the garage now with the relays clicking and a dead battery.
George,
Just unplug the nylon connector for the hazard switch. That will stop the battery drain, should your wedge fail. If you're going to drive the car, add the jumper wire to make the turn signals work (see my post above).
John
Just unplug the nylon connector for the hazard switch. That will stop the battery drain, should your wedge fail. If you're going to drive the car, add the jumper wire to make the turn signals work (see my post above).
John
When I bought my car it had a tooth pick jammed in Emergency Flasher Switch so the it would stay in the correct position. I was able to rebuild mine two years ago and it has worked flawlessly since.
Here is the link to the method I followed (which is the same one listed previously in this thread). Banzai Runner Pantera Hazard Fix
Devin
BTW - Here is another good thread on the Emergency Hazard Switch. http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...274/m/4101082816/p/1
Here is the link to the method I followed (which is the same one listed previously in this thread). Banzai Runner Pantera Hazard Fix
Devin
BTW - Here is another good thread on the Emergency Hazard Switch. http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...274/m/4101082816/p/1
Ok....
Did the re-work on the switch tonight and the switch now stays in far enough that the directionals work, but not I have no hazards...any thoughts?
Thanks!
Did the re-work on the switch tonight and the switch now stays in far enough that the directionals work, but not I have no hazards...any thoughts?
Thanks!
George,
It sounds like some of the contacts are not making connection inside the hazard switch, probably #30 (green wire) and #49 (yellow wire). Make sure that you have +12 volts on the green wire with the key off.
John
It sounds like some of the contacts are not making connection inside the hazard switch, probably #30 (green wire) and #49 (yellow wire). Make sure that you have +12 volts on the green wire with the key off.
John
I have + 12 on the green #30 wire.....pulling the switch apart again...I have a good connetions all around and between the 2 yellow/black wires.....so let's start over....
Looks like it's back to square one....the plastic tab that holds the #30 spade connector is broke! I have to find a switch now! All the help has been spot on and very helpful! If no one has a spare to sell then I'll jumper it so my directionals work at least and hope I don't fail inspection.
Thanks!
Thanks!
is that the culpret to your problem we were talking about?
That was the root of the starting problem. It had drained the battery one to many times. Had the battery tested and it is toast! Wouldn't hold a charge. Geeting new on today and jumpering out the Hazard switch. Then I'm good to go!
The battery solved the starting problem. Going to attempt the switch one more time before I jumper it out....fingers crossed!
Switch still pops out with just a bump and Hazard still don't work! Jumper fix got my directionals going again. So off to inspection with hopes they don't ask to see those work!