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George,

I bought one from this seller.

http://tinyurl.com/Hazard-Switch

If you need to drive the car before the new switch arrives, a jumper wire can be used so that the turn signals work. Locate the nylon connector for the hazard switch, and separate the two halves. The jumper will be placed in the wire loom half of the connector (not the half that goes directly to the switch).

If your wiring has a yellow AND a yellow / black wire, place a jumper between the yellow and the red wires. Use a female spade connector at each end of the jumper wire.

If your wiring has ONLY a yellow OR ONLY a yellow / black wire (i.e. only one wire, but not two), jumper that wire to the red wire in the connector.

This jumper only goes in the nylon connector half that is connected to the car's wire loom. The will be NO connection to the nylon connector half that goes to the hazard switch.

This will allow you to drive the car and have the turn signals operational.

John

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George, some hazard switches can be repaired. There are two types; one (late '72) has a sheet metal cage holding the two parts together. Bending tangs allows the two parts to separate. Inside you find a spindly arm with a protrusion on the end. This protrusion rides in a cam-slot cut into the wall of one part of the switch; when you push the button, the arm traces the slot and rotates the switch attached on the far end, connecting various wires. What happens is, wear allows the protrusion to pop out of its slot. The fix: shim the arm outboard with a thin piece of cardboard (I used a piece of a Hall business card) to provide a little more pressure. Others have accomplished the same by tightening a small hose clamp around the body, slightly denting the side of the switch in.

The other type switch (early '71) uses 7 plastic tabs in indents to hold the parts together, so disassembly takes a complex 7-arm detent-squeezer, or an end mill to cut them off! The internal design of this switch is different so the shimming or hose clamp do not work, once you splt the body. Again, wear in the plastic from constant spring pressure is the cause. I don't do plastic micro-welding.

I also found that a '70s Alfa hazard switch is virtually identical to our switches and will work in Panteras. The contact connection lettering in back is the only difference. The red light cover, bulb and outer switch ring interchanges with our switches. A Nov '06 POCA article (illustrated) described this adaption in detail. New Alfa switches are available from several on-line sources for about what Wilkinson charges (when he has them), or from a scrapyard considerably cheaper.
quote:
Originally posted by garth66:
That's a great price! About 60% of what the Pantera and BMW vendors were charging just a couple years ago.


Yeah and they were cheaper still at around $30 for a while, then the seller realized there was another market when Larry Stock purchased all 10 in one auction as they were cheaper than his wholesaler source.

Julian
When I bought my car it had a tooth pick jammed in Emergency Flasher Switch so the it would stay in the correct position. I was able to rebuild mine two years ago and it has worked flawlessly since.

Here is the link to the method I followed (which is the same one listed previously in this thread). Banzai Runner Pantera Hazard Fix

Devin

BTW - Here is another good thread on the Emergency Hazard Switch. http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...274/m/4101082816/p/1
Last edited by garvino
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