Ignition cable brackets (looms)

Look inside the valve cover for small screws.

Seriously? Do I need to remove the valve covers in order to detach the ignition cables from their brackets?
Brgds
Hartwig

Yes. I see no other way they are attached, unless they are glued on with epoxy. They are aftermarket parts. No Detomaso parts. That is something "A STREETRODDER" WOULD DO.

quote:

how to detach the bracket.

Have you tried lifting the wire brackets upwards?

Have you checked bottom of brackets for a small set screw, that might lock them in place after being slid down a valve-cover-mounted bracket?

Yes, I checked for a screw, but there is nothing.....
Hartwig

Then I'm going with glue.

Bathed in hot engine oil, I'd expect even the smallest of bolt holes would be weeping some oil, but your photo seems to show no such seepage.

Hold it! One other idea:

Could the wire-holding section possibly be a snap-fit cover mated to a base piece?

Try a thin, flat blade screwdriver at the edges and try to pry a "cover" loose?

No chance, the brackets are very solidly fixed. No movement whatever tool applied. Looks as if they are bolted from inside the valve cover.
Brgds
Hartwig

never seen such so all i have is curious questions.

could the wire be threaded through (with out an end)?

is the loom the same metal as cover?

I don't think I would like having small screws (or nuts) inside the valve cover

FORD used pan head machined screws inside of the valve cover to retain the oil drip tabs used on the Boss 302 and Boss 351 AND the sheet metal baffle under the oil fill ports. I think they are 4-40 threads. That valve cover is the same as the "Detomaso" casting used here.
Considering their paranoia in approving anything that did not have major durability testing, I would say that properly installed these screws are no threat to creating issues.

I think I remember Hall showing pictures of these retainers either in one of his catalogs or one of his fliers? I am pretty sure that they are held in place using beveled head slotted machined screws that counter sink in the wall of the cover and go through the valve covers. There are no nuts used at all. They thread directly into the molded "plastic" of the wire retaining clips.

If you pry these off one of two things will happen, the head of the screw will snap off or the valve cover wall will fail and you will pull the head of the screw through.

If you want to permanently remove them, take the covers off, unscrew the retainers, then fill the holes with Devcon Plastic Aluminum epoxy.

Good silicone covered spark plug wire doesn't care if it even lays directly on the tube of the header. The heat will not melt them. Same with the boots. Technology has improved over the original spark plug wires considerably since these cars were new.

I have a set never installed they are installed with screws from the inside of the valve cover.

HIGHLY recommend this "Split" style of spark plug wire separators...

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Per...ators/759833/10002/-

...This design allows you to mount the separators to the valve cover from mounting screws inside the valve cover having to remove the valve cover/s ONLY once for "initial" mounting.

The "split" design now allows you to remove/change spark plug wires WITHOUT having to remove the valve cover/s...Mark

I removed the valve cover and found the brackets screwed from inside (photo)
Thanks and brgds
Hartwig