Is there a known "Engine Out Check List"...

It is a good time to check that the big stroker crank and alloy heads are fitted !! and if not, fit them !! haha
Seriously, good time to really make sure the sump gasket is well sealedand rear main is perfectly dry and inlet manifold bridge gaskets, as they can push out over time.
I have not done it, but probably would if possible to mark the flywheel on tdc through the window in the bell housing, so you can set timing from the back.

Thanks you guys!.. I rewired this whole car (smoke in the cockpit 60 miles from home.. YIKES! )with the "American Autowire" kit, this kit is way, way better than the painless kit I used on my last car. I put new rings, bearings, cam/lifters, heads, water pump,..etc on the engine. RBT went through the gear box... So, I just hope I don't forget anything..???

Maybe check the linkage trunion near the gas tank. You most likely had to move it to get the tank out. I also replaced the float in my tank just to be on the safe side. Did you replace the cooling tubes with stainless? I did that also, did not want to do it after the engine was put back in, what a B&*^&%. I use premolded 90 degree bypass hoses into 5/8" copper tubing then regular heater hose where the heater tubes come from the console, worked out pretty clean and easy. Good luck.

1. Replace cooling tubes
Good time to replace the stock steel cooling tubes under the car with stainless - only time you can remove and replace the long one is with the engine out, unless you get under there with a sawzall and replace it with shorter lengths.

2. Repair rust between tank and fender
Also, while the gas tank is out to be cleaned you should check the inside of the quarter panel between the tank and the fender for rust/corrosion. Dirt and debris is collected there, then it holds moisture and begins to rot the panel from the inside out, so fix anything you find there now too.

3. Install removable lower cross-member
It's a good time to remove the welded in lower cross-member and replace it with either a removable cross-member or a lower chassis stiffening kit. That way you can remove your oil pan while the engine is in the car if you ever need to service/inspect the bottom end. Removing the cross-member can be done while the engine is in the car, but it's a lot easier to do when the engine is out.

4. Strip and refinish your engine compartment
Remove all that factory undercoating that attracts and holds dust and dirt and either repaint the engine compartment or coat it with a durable bedliner material to maintain a stock appearance (but better looking) that cleans up easier. Before applying the new finish to the engine compartment is also a good time to weld up those holes back there that let water down into the frame rails.

5. Coat your headers and exhaust system
Any of the quality coatings will do - JetHot, Ceramacoat, etc.

If I think of more, I'll add to the list.

I was just on Chuck Meltons site. In his Motor removal section he has a list of to do's.
Jeff
http://www.provamo.com/

Thanks you guys!!

Great topic! I am planning to do the very same come winter time ...

I'd be interested to see any pix (from anyone - doing anything to their Cleve-less, ZF-less bay).

In addition to the great suggestions above, I am thinking of the following tasks and mods ...

1) have a pro service the fuel cell while your power plant is out. Make sure to replace the vent line and cap - and check the gasket around your goose neck filler. If a lot of sh*t comes out of the tank, a new draw line and possible the sending unit may also need to be replaced. As Garth suggests, this is also a good time to check for rust and corrosion on your inner wheel well and quarter panel.

2) I have already replaced all my fuel lines (going from 5/16 to 3/8 braided line), added two filters (on both sides of the pump - 100 micron vacuum, 10 micro pressure) and replaced my stock pump with a new high capacity Holley. You could look into doing that stuff now - as replacing the pump would be a real pain in the ass if you didn't have a lift.

3) completely replace all the "heat fabric" along the engine-side firewall - probably with Dynamat or a similar insulation / noise dampening product. Ditto for the engine-side of the bulk head.

4) upgrade all the stock hose and wire hangers / connectors with modern versions.

5) I've seen a few guys run their A/C plumbing under the passenger side wheel well. This really makes for a tidy bay.

6) new vacuum hoses? upgrade to braided?

6) BLING TIME! (in general) ... it's probably WAY easier to clean your manifold, valve covers, ZF and anything else with the power plant pulled. I've given up on trying to keep my engine clean during driving season. That's winter work for us Canucks!

I look forward to more suggestions here ... and, of course, PIX!!!

Oh yeah, if you want to tidy up your plug cables, you may want to pull your distributor and check the gear pin. (You'll probably have to reset your timing anyway - so wtf!) It took me 5 hours to replace my pin when it sheared. Total cost was $0.15 for a new pin, but it's a pain the in butt to get at with the engine in ...

All good suggestions EA#3528. I forgot to list pulling the gas tank and having it boiled out and sealed, plus replacing fuel lines. Be sure to add the rollover valve to your tank too.

Also, now would be a good time to replace your AC compressor with a modern rotary type, as well as all your AC lines.

quote:

5) I've seen a few guys run their A/C plumbing under the passenger side wheel well. This really makes for a tidy bay.

Add to that rerouting the rear wiring loom too and feed the lights and A/C wires through the rear panel. I just did this and it looks so much neater, I have no idea why it wasn't done from factory.

another thing to consider is the removable e-brake bracket.

John

All of the stuff suggested is what to do... # 3463 has been treated to every bit of that and thensome. Here are some pics asked for.

Dave

...the start...

On and on...

Dave # 3463

more...

and so on...

done...

Mine looks almost identical to that one (3463) not quite as nice though. I was also thinking about cutting away the floating nuts that secure the engine cover to the firewall and welding in a flat band of steel 1/4" thick by 3/8" or so wide. This way when drilled a tapped it would seal better and be easily repaired for ever... I was wondering about the "electronics board" on the firewall, has anyone come up with an improvement on that system??... I had a very ambitious thought, to box the whole thing in and then run a duct into it to provide cool cabin air into the sealed but vented "electronic box"... I'm afraid it may end up being hotter after an hour at 75 MPH??...

PLT, have you dropped your powerplant back in yet? Any pix you can share?

I'm making plans to pull mine ...

EA

EA, I just sprayed the last coat of primer on my engine bay. As soon as I rub it down and spray it, I will post a shot. I just removed all the under coating and checked everything for condition, I smoothed out a few things but I did not weld holes etc.. I will do that next time. This time, I just wanted to get all the hard stuff done and a good inspection. Next engine, next color will be next level... Pics soon though...