Lift Cylinder Mounting Repair

quote:

Originally posted by Joe6pack:
Can anyone suggest an easy way to repair the rear deck lid lift cylinder mounting points? Both of mine in the engine bay have been ripped off. While the car isn't exactly a trailer queen, the mop handle I'm currently using to hold the lid up is a little unsightly not too mention a bit dangerous.
Thanks.

Yea, becides being a bit dangerous with the hood falling, that decklid is pretty heavy huh. I never realized until I had both struts off the car how heavy it is. Its amazing how many cars get ruined by too strong hood struts and we as a club don't know: (1) the proper strength in lbs the struts should have for a wing car and non wing car, (2) the name and number of aftermarket struts that we need for the decklids, and the associated strength of those struts. These stinkin struts seem to be a mystery for all. I know the new Detomaso struts are way too strong for non wing car...dang hood flies out of my hands, but I have not found the right replacement yet.

As for you, sounds like you have a welding job on your hands to get rid of the broom handle and restructure/weld the post brackets, then if your engine bay is painted, you got that cost as well.

I have posted the aftermarket number several times, but no one ever seems to acknowledge it! Autozone part #95004 works great for non-winged cars. The decklid holds in whatever position you place it. It does not raise the corner on hot days. They have a lifetime warranty, and cost about $20 each. I know of at least six cars that are using them, and all are happy. -Steve

Thanks for the help. Does anyone have a fix for the broken mounts that doesn't involve wellding? It seems like it would be too difficult to bolt a small bracket into place if it were properly reinforced.

Steve, thanks for the autozone part, those sound like what I need, and nice cheap price to boot! Gona get me some of that and try them out.

John, if your engine bay isn't painted show condition, then you could always think it through and fabricate something and try it out...least harm is that it just breaks off again. However there is lots of pressure on those connections with the struts and the heavy hood, hope someone can help you with advise but I have never heard of anyother fix other than rewelding.

You're quite welcome. You might have to fabricate some spacers, seen in this photo. I made them out of aluminum, but I've seen them made with plastic, too. Let me know how they work for you. -Steve

quote:

Originally posted by Joe6pack:
Thanks for the help. Does anyone have a fix for the broken mounts that doesn't involve wellding? It seems like it would be too difficult to bolt a small bracket into place if it were properly reinforced.

You can make duplicate brackets out of steel "stock" if yours need replacing.

What you will need to do is bend a foot into the bracke, drill it for a small allen socket screw. A 6-32 size will work, probably even a 8-32. They will be as strong as the originals that were welded on were.

Sorry there is no easy fix for them. It's back to 8th grade metal shop for this one.

I think I have a solution. The car had the gages mounted under the dash with some "pods" that used a U shaped bracket. Well it just so happens that the bracket is the right size and shape to accept the cylinders. Problem is, I will have to relocate them to the top of hump instead of the bottom (unless of course I have them milled). They should be stronger than original. I will need about 1-2 inches of additional travel on the cylinder, however. If this works, I will have two additional brackets left over if anyone wants them.

The Ted Mitchell http://www.tmitch.com/ Vader Lifts may not use the bottom mounts. You might want to check with him. Warning, they are expensive.

Hey, those are pretty cool. Anyone have them installed? Opinions?

quote:

Originally posted by ferrari328gt:
I have posted the aftermarket number several times, but no one ever seems to acknowledge it! Autozone part #95004 works great for non-winged cars. The decklid holds in whatever position you place it. It does not raise the corner on hot days. They have a lifetime warranty, and cost about $20 each. I know of at least six cars that are using them, and all are happy. -Steve

Hey, Steve I went and bought some struts from Autozone under that 95004 part number, but nothing on the struts or receipt indicate #95004, so I wonder now if I really have the correct part. Measurement of the strut is longer than what I currently have on the car by just over 1/2" (may seem like a small increase, but a small increase could translate to jaming the corner hood into the car body with the wrong part). The ones they gave me are semigloss and called Stabilus Lift-o-Mat #G314002, and measure 9" long on the largest part of the cylender, and the entire length is 18" (thats not hole to hole, but the entire length). I will attach a few photos below...whachathink? Are they like yours? I need to put these on by myself which is sort of a task, so I don't want to start something with the wrong part.

Photo showing strut name.

Photo showing strut numbers.

Well, they are probably right, but I don't have a car here to check the length for you. It is interesting, though, that mine had a blue sticker on them with the number 4406, and no other identification. (I took the stickers off, and there's nothing underneath). The ends look correct, diameter looks correct, so I suspect that Autozone gets their supply from several different manufacturers. Why not go see Dave Jacobson's car on Sunday at Calabasis (sp?) and compare. -Steve