Lifter niose

What kind of cam? Solid or hyrdaulic? Flat tappet or roller? What rpm are you shifting at?

K

I don't know. I think it has roller cams. I shift before 7000 RPM, but I held 3rd, and was between 7000 - 7100 at the end of my run. 126.1 MPH. If I pull the valve cover will I be able to tell what type of lifters. I suspect solid roller lifters.

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Originally posted by icole: I don't know. I think it has roller cams. I shift before 7000 RPM, but I held 3rd, and was between 7000 - 7100 at the end of my run. 126.1 MPH.

If you have clacking noise and it pulls to 7000 it is likely a solid cam, and may be solid roller. If solid, you need to set the lash whether it's a flat tappet or roller, as too much lash can lead to premature valve train failure. If you have solid rollers, you should pull and inspect them every few thousand (2-4k) miles depending upon driving and spring rates. The needle bearings in the rollers have a hard time getting proper oiling and they live a hard life.

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If I pull the valve cover will I be able to tell what type of lifters. I suspect solid roller lifters.

No. You'll need to pull the intake and have a look at them in the valley. You might pull the distributor and see if it has a bronze gear. If it does, it is likely a billet cam blank and that means roller cam.

Best,
K

My uncle says he thinks that the motor has solid roller lifters, and that the motor is good to 8000 RPM. I still won't rev past 7000. If it is is solid won't I be able to tell because hydraulic lifters wont fully open the valves when the engine is not running?
I think that solid lifters do make noise, but when it gets warm again I will check the lash. I watched a video on how to adjust it. Is the lash setting standard, or does it very depending on your set up?
Ian

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Originally posted by icole:
My uncle says he thinks that the motor has solid roller lifters, and that the motor is good to 8000 RPM. I still won't rev past 7000.

Think its wise to stay <7krpm. Not many cams that are streetable make more power above that level anyway.

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If it is is solid won't I be able to tell because hydraulic lifters wont fully open the valves when the engine is not running?

How are you going to tell? Do you have a dial indicator and without the cam specs, how would you know.

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I think that solid lifters do make noise, but when it gets warm again I will check the lash.

If they were hydraulic they would bleed down before you could measure.

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I watched a video on how to adjust it. Is the lash setting standard, or does it very depending on your set up? Ian

There are "standard procedures" that apply to setting lash all solids. You'll get varying opinions on approach but without cam specs it's kind of a crap shoot to maintain your valvetrain. I think you should put a dial on it and see how much lift you have. It wont tell you anything about the timing of the cam events but it will give some clues as to what might be in there. If it is >>.600 or more it's most certainly a roller. You really need to find out what you have. If it has a high lift solid roller, if you don't maintain it properly, it's just a matter of time before you eat a lifter. At minimum it will wipe the cam when that happens and could create a lot of wreckage in the corresponding cylinder along the way.

Best,
K

How do I adjust these they look different than the ones I saw the how too on.

I figured it out. A regular box end fits on the star bolt, and the set screw adjusts the lash. The exhaust valve nearest my head had about 10 thousandths more lash than the rest. I set it to a loose 18 like the rest. The solid lifters still make noise, but I don't think that it is any louder than the ones I saw at atco today.
Even without a gauge I could tell that the valves open about 1". This is far more than the .600 mentioned earlier in this thread.
I also gave a hard push on an open valve rocker while it was cold, and there was no give. I also discovered that my rev limiter is 8000 RPM.

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Originally posted by icole:
I figured it out. A regular box end fits on the star bolt, and the set screw adjusts the lash. The exhaust valve nearest my head had about 10 thousandths more lash than the rest. I set it to a loose 18 like the rest.

.018-.022 would be within reason depending upon cam and set at hot or cold. Those are shaft mounted rockers, likely Jessel or T&D. -Good stuff. Generally accepted to be more robust than stud/pedestal monted rockers.

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Even without a gauge I could tell that the valves open about 1". This is far more than the .600 mentioned earlier in this thread.

Think you need to re-measure. Though I dont know your build that is not a realistic lift in a 351c or any street driven mouse motor. Not sure I'd be paying any attention but given you ran a 12.4 quarter and your car ran an 11.5, questions must be answered!!

Best,
K

Listen to Kelly. Comp Cams makes some of the most commonly-used solid roller lifters, and their Tech Reps say not to expect more than 4000 street miles from these racing parts before they break & destroy your block. Most other cam grinders won't give mileage estimates at all.... If you need help, there are probably local race shops near you that could set them up while you watch. After that, you could do it yourself.
Don't expect to tighten the setscrew and have it hold; you will rip the hex out of the allen screw before it's tight enough. Instead, tighten the setscrew 'pretty tight', then tighten the lock nut, then turn BOTH the allen wrench and locknut together another 1/16- 1/8-turn. This while you're balancing a feeler gauge strip in the gap between valve stem & roller. Not much fun to get right in a Pantera engine bay.
But before you rip into the engine, remove a valve cover, then start the engine and listen & watch the valve action; it's possible that you simply have one (or more) bent pushrod and replacing the damaged one(s) will quiet the noise. Much easier than doing all 16. Good luck- sounds like a nice motor.

Those are shaft mounted rockers, likely Jessel or T&D. -Good stuff. Generally accepted to be more robust than stud/pedestal monted rockers.

Best,
K[/QUOTE]
Thank you.
I looked around and they look most like the comp series Jesel rockers. This engine was built 10 years ago, and spent most of the last 10 years sitting in my dads garage. He took it out a few times, but He snapped a half shaft, or U joint on a High rev launch, and when he shattered his clutch disk he was too weak and tired to fix it. As far as the lift goes I did not measure, and I was refering to how far the valve apeared to travel not the push rod. I am not sure which I was meant to measure, but I am now certain that this engine has solid roller lifters, and according to Jegs these rockers have no spring load or RPM limit.
My uncle was in town from Chicago for Thanksgiving, and he used to work at a shop that adjusted valve lash. After I adjusted the one valve that seamed to have excessive lash he checked it cold, then he stuck the feelers in while it was idling.
He said it sounds normal for solid lifters.

Bosswrench I did not put any strain on the Allen key. It is a very small allen key, and it had a little play. I found the setting then held it still and tightened the box wrench. then backed the Allen key off a 1/16th of a turn, and tightened the box wrench and checked the lash. This took 2 or 3 tries to get it right. When I get a chance I am going to go check out my local speed shop, and see if I trust the guys there. Maybe I will put it on their dyno while I am there.

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As far as the lift goes I did not measure, and I was refering to how far the valve apeared to travel not the push rod. I am not sure which I was meant to measure, but I am now certain that this engine has solid roller lifters,

There's lobe lift and valve lift. Valve lift is the rocker ratio times lobe lift. Most people talk valve lift because that's where head flow is measured. Cam cards sometimes have both but will specify the rocker ratio for a given valve lift. My previous comment about 1" being unrealistic was referring to valve lift.

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...and according to Jegs these rockers have no spring load or RPM limit.

Trust me, they have a limit. Just look at all the stuff for sale on eBay that are one or two short of a complete set.

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My uncle was in town from Chicago for Thanksgiving, and he used to work at a shop that adjusted valve lash. After I adjusted the one valve that seamed to have excessive lash he checked it cold, then he stuck the feelers in while it was idling.

Huh? While running? He must be pretty quick with his hands It would also take the lash to zero if you left the feeler in while running.

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When I get a chance I am going to go check out my local speed shop, and see if I trust the guys there. Maybe I will put it on their dyno while I am there.

That might be a good move. Just remember, shop rate usually goes up 50% if you want to watch and 100% if you want to help..........just kidding

Best,
K

I'm curious as to what cam profile is in there.

Solids do make a racket even properly adjusted but I'd like to point out that the anti-pump-up hydraulic lifters often are as noisy as solids.

Did anyone mention that the clearances are adjusted with the engine off?

Incidentally those appear to be titanium valve spring retainers? Wonder if the valves are also?

Sounds like a nice engine and someone knew what they were doing when they built it.

My dad built many engines in his life. This was the last one he built. I wish I had asked him more about it.

Most builders keep a log, or diary of what goes into a specific engine. There should at least be a record of the camshaft to at least know what the lifter clearances should be.
The camshaft profile is what is going to effect the character of the engine the most.