List some of your wilder motor running on the street

Here is the information on my cam. The motor is a 427 CI stroker, (4.00 stroke x 4.125 bore) 9.5 deck, CHI Aluminum heads. You will need to recalculate lift for a 1.75 ratio rocker arm. The engine dynoed at 713HP @ 7000 rpm on pump gas, but it did not last.

AS OF THIS POSTING DATE THE ENGINE STILL IS BROKEN WITH LESS THAN 1500 MILES ON IT.

All of you on the board know by now who built the engine and you also know I would NEVER recommend any one get an engine from them. If you don't know, please contact me via PM and I will tell you who to avoid.

-CHRIS LEWIS



Part Number
Serial Number 35-000-9
I 6900-06
Engine SB FORD
Grind Number 4875F/4876F SR110
Description SOLID ROLLER
________________________________________
Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment
Rocker Ratio .016
1.60 .016
1.60
Gross Valve Lift .616 .622
Duration At 0.015 tappet Lift 285 291
________________________________________
Valve Timing At 0.050
Open Close
Intake 14 54
Exhaust 57 17

________________________________________
These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 110 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.050 248 254
Lobe Lift .385 .389
Lobe Separation 110

quote:

The motor is a 427 CI stroker

I believe that's a Windsor block, right? Or did you stroke a Cleveland to 427?

The block is a Dart Iron Eagle race block (therefore Windsor style)with a 9.5 inch deck height.

George Pence has commented a number of times previosuly on how to build a 500FWHP Cleveland engine. It is not that hard and keeps within the bounds of driveability and longevity.

Here's a couple prior posts for reading;

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...250036954#8250036954

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...250091684#9250091684

In my opinion, spec your cam to build max power below 6k for the street. Things like to break at higher rpms.
My current 393 stroker starts to drop off after 5200, but I'm happy with most of my power being in the midrange.
On the other hand, if I had the $$, I'd go forced induction.
Will

I built a Pro Street 351C. The motor was set up as follows.
1971 351C 4 bolt main block bored .030" oversize. Running BOSS 351 crank (mains and rods turned .010") BOSS 351 Rods machined for full float pins, ARP rod bolts, and TRW 12.5:1 Power Forged pistons, Plasma Moly rings, I ran the thinnest head gasket possible and was running a compression ratio over 13:1.
4V heads, ported myself on intake and exhaust, pedastals machined for screw in studs and guide plates, telfon tru-seal valve seals.
Complete Comp Cams valvetrain, solid cam(Super Stock grind with around 270 degrees duration and .615" lift at the valve, CC roller rockers with 1.76:1 ratio)
The engine had a very racey idle, needed 104 octane gas to prevent spark knock. Starting the engine was a beast(rear mount battery) until I had the grounds worked out. She would run hot in traffic, I was using a stock 429 SCJ radiator with a shroud. BUT she never boiled over or left me stranded.
I could let that car set for six months, pump the gas three or four times and she would always start!!
One last note I only set the valves on that car two or three times, she would never come out of set.
Jeff

The one thing I can't budge on is the pump gas thing. I've already got one car that I drive on the street with racegas and it is expensive and a pain to acquire. But I definitely like the fact that you did it

Definitely like the cam you had spec'd OSO. How long did it take you to check the lash, do you recall?

When I had that motor I think I ran MOROSO screw in studs, and Poly Locs. I had taken the studs and filed the tops flat, this was to ensure the set screws in the Poly Locs had 100% contact with the tops of the studs. Some may say this is unnecassary but I have seen lots of people have Poly Locs back off and this was one thing I did to ensure they didnt back off.
The amount of time it took to check my lash after inital setup was only a hour or so. Had t-handles and rubber gaskets on the valve covers.
I wish I still had that motor, God I sold all of my Cleveland stuff less than a year before we found 1717, I could have put some dished pistons in that beast and had one hell of a radical 351 for her!!!
Jeff

Hi OSO,

I'm intrigued with your 12.5:1 CR Cleveland. Do you recall what sort of powerband it had, and did you ever get a 1/4 mile mph to estimate the power it was making?

Jack

FWIW here's the specs on my 393C that's going into the '74 once all the bodywork is complete.

Factory '72 4-bolt block filled 1" below WP
4.030" bore SRP 11.28:1 flat top pistons
Scat 3.85" 4340 forged/profiled/lightened crankshaft
6" H-beam rods SBC sizes big/small ends w/floating pins
FMS "A3" aluminum cylinder heads with flow @28"
Lift--int-/-exh
.500 305/217
.600 341/232
.700 357/242
2.19" titanium intake x 1.71" stainless exhaust valves
Isky dual coil w/dampner roller springs
Comp Pro Magnum chrome-moly roller rocker arms w/Jomar stud girdle
JP Performance billet timing gear/chain set
Mechanical roller cam 274°/274° @.050" .709"/.709" lift 105° LCA
Lunati solid roller lifters
Mellings HV oil pump w/Moroso oil restrictors.
ARP head studs, oil pan studs, header studs, carb studs
MSD billet mechanical advance distributor
Ford Motorsports/Jack Roush B351 ported intake manifold and Holley HP 1000 CFM carburetor (going to change to Kinsler IR EFI)
7800 RPM redline and made 620HP 520 ft/lbs torque

Julian

The 351C 4V was designed by Ford to churn out 500 BHP at about 7000 RPM with a camshaft that lifts the valves about 0.600" off the seat, compression ratio in the 11.0:1 to 12.0:1 range.

What that requires is a cam with 0.050" duration figures in the 245 degree to 250 degree range. The 351C prefers cams with relatively narrow lobe center separation angles, like 106 to 108 degrees on the street. I don't recommend much over 0.600" valve lift due to valve train durability issues. But that's all you need to hit 500 BHP.

A camshaft like this will allow 11.0:1 compression ratio with high octane pump gas. Zeroing the decks in conjunction with D0AE heads, a 0.040” thick head gasket and flat top pistons will result in 10.7:1 compression ratio. In addition to zeroing the decks, milling the D0AE heads approximately 0.015” to set the combustion chamber volume at 61cc will raise the compression ratio even further to 11.0:1.

A motor like this will have a powerband of approximately 3000 to 7000 RPM and a nice rough idle, some people actually prefer a nice rough idle. It is in effect a 1971 NASCAR motor. It will run OK on the street once the carburetor is dialed in. The 351C 4V tends to come on the cam "hard" though, which can make it a handfull to control sometimes, some exhaust back pressure definitely helps in that regard. However ... I'm with Will, for a street motor my personal preference is a powerband of 2000 to 6000 rpm and wider lobe center separation angles for a nice wide and somewhat gentler powerband, let the maximum power numbers fall where they may. If the big numbers are important to you AND you want to improve drivability, stroking the motor to 400 cubic inches (making no other changes) will lower the peak power engine speed from 7000 RPM to about 6200 RPM.

With the demise of Crane Cams I have imposed a personal moratorium on recommending roller camshafts. I have never built a motor with the Isky 292 Mega Cam, but on paper it looks like a 500 BHP flat tappet hydraulic camshaft.