Lower pivot shafts

...pull the nuts, o-ring caps and zerk fittings(NO the zerks did not come standard), off and shoot a good amount of WD-40 in there! It helps a lot to free up movement to slid the shafts out. When you 'wrench' on both nuts at each end, to loosen them, only ONE (the less-frozen one) will come loose, unless the shaft is frozen solid and will NOT turn in it's bores; if so you can get both nuts off. If NOT, Use the tight/frozen nut to turn and free up the shaft after soaking the inside with the WD-40 as best as you can, perhaps even 'overnight'...

The upright does not pivot on the shaft, it pivots on a sleeve that is around the shaft. The sleeve in held in place between the A arm ends by the shaft and some spacer washers. This page has some photos showing how it works http://www.panteraplace.com/page87.htm

Mike

Larry, you have to remove the shaft and drop the lower a arm down to get to the sleeve. Mine was rusted in and had to be driven out with a hammer. The bronze bushings were also worn paper thin on the top. I rebuilt the whole assembly and packed the the whole assembly with waterproof grease. The page listed by Panteraplace is a good reference. Good luck.
Richard T.

It is easy to test if it is frozen up. Just remove either the upper ball joint or the two top a-arm bushing bolts. The upright should then easily tilt outward and inward. If you cant budge it, then it is frozen. Be advised though, the axle spline will make it pull hard. If it pops when you attempt to take it out, it could also be frozen.

On mine, when I take off the axle, brakeline, and upper ball joint, it will fall down to the floor. It should move quite easily.

I loosened the nuts and the shafts spun easily just with the friction of the nylock nut. As i worked them, they started to take grease as well. I'm pleased and convinced there's no frozen shafts here.
Thanks everybody.