Motor Mount Insulator Torque Specification?

I have never used a set torque. Hope this doesn't offend anyone but I am a firm believer in setting them to a German torque, which is Good and Tight.
Jeff

I searched the Pantera workshop manual, issued by Ford/Lincoln Mercury in July 1973 (called the Technical Information Manual), section 21-22-04 & 21-22-05 and the Pantera Service Highlights manual (an internal Lincoln/Mercury training document). Neither Ford document listed a torque spec for the engine mounts.

In the same spirit of humor offered by Jeff, and being of German ancestry, I can pass-on to you an old mechanic's joke, tighten the bolt until it gets loose again, and then back-off 1/4 turn.

the mounting arraignment is similar to flat head fords ...tighten until the washer on top wont turn by hand . then 1/16 turn on nut. preloading the rubber excessively just transfers more vibration

As stated by the replies, I cannot find a torque spec either; however, a M12 x 1.75 bolt appears to have the following torque specs:
8.8 strength, 65 ft lbs dry, 49 ft lbs lubed as a guide.

Thanks for the replies. I did use the M12 guide and torqued them to 60 Ft-lbs, but as stated above since it is compressing a rubber insulator, I worry it is too much. I may have to go with the idea of some compression of the rubber, but not too much. I will try and use the torque wrench and measure what that is. I am using new insulators.

the 'torque' in ft lbs is max for the bolt. the rubber doesn't work better compressed / preloaded . the way the biscuits are angled keeps the motor in place.

The long bolt thru the assembly doesn't need super torque. There's a steel insert in the rubber biscuits to resist crushing from overtorque, but the long bolt only keeps the assembly from separating over big bumps etc. The rest of the time, the weight of the engine holds the assembly in place. And that bolt is drilled for a cotter pin and uses an elastic lock-nut. Biggest danger is losing the bolt if it's installed from the bottom, hence the cotter-pin hole. That and breaking the small bolts going into the block thru the aluminum upper
mount.

Bosswrench, thanks. So the factory bolt had a hole drilled through it at the threaded end and cotter pin was installed after the nut was installed? I have nylon nuts on mine, but no cotter pins/holes and the nuts are on top.

Seems like the consensus is that the bolt just needs to be "tight", not torqued any where near the M12 bolt's rating. Thinking 20-25 ft-lbs now.