I recall reading something about only sleeving a maximum 2 cylinders on a Cleveland, not sure why that would be?
Julian
I personally wouldn't want to do the machining on an entire block and it probably has to do with spacing and cylinder thicknesses.
For sure one sleeve can't be any kind of a problem?
It's a while since I saw the 8 sleeves and it might have been a 427 Ford block. Can't remember specifically now.
You need to remember that the word insane can't always be used with certain people.
Sometimes you need to be crazy to be brilliant? Matter of fact, aren't those words synonyms for each other?
For sure one sleeve can't be any kind of a problem?
It's a while since I saw the 8 sleeves and it might have been a 427 Ford block. Can't remember specifically now.
You need to remember that the word insane can't always be used with certain people.
Sometimes you need to be crazy to be brilliant? Matter of fact, aren't those words synonyms for each other?
Sleeving may have worked flawlessly; however, we went ahead and located a replacement 351C block. I'll keep the old block just in case someone wants a matching numbers car if I ever sell mine. Matching numbers wasn't too big of a deal for me - especially on the Pantera as it doesn't seem to matter in the end to most buyers. In the future, I might sleeve or even go with a 351W, but for now I'm sticking with the 351C.
I do have another question on water pumps & ignition systems. Is it worth the extra money to go back with a new high flow aluminum water pump vs. a rebuilt steel replacement ($250 vs. $50). My understanding is that they are not only lighter, but also flow more water and dissipate heat faster? Is this a good upgrade for the extra $200?
On the ignition front - I'm looking to go to one of the newer electronic ignition systems vs. the factory Duraspark. Any reason why this wouldn't be a good upgrade as well?
I do have another question on water pumps & ignition systems. Is it worth the extra money to go back with a new high flow aluminum water pump vs. a rebuilt steel replacement ($250 vs. $50). My understanding is that they are not only lighter, but also flow more water and dissipate heat faster? Is this a good upgrade for the extra $200?
On the ignition front - I'm looking to go to one of the newer electronic ignition systems vs. the factory Duraspark. Any reason why this wouldn't be a good upgrade as well?
Sorry - somehow missed the post on the water pump discussion going on right now. My car has the stock radiator with an extra manual fan & no hood vents. To upgrade the water pump or not is the question?
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...50045562&m=319102053
above is a link to a forum discussion on swapping TO a Duraspark...there might be some info there that would help you decide on the ignition swap. I going from the stock dual point stock system out of my 72L to the Duraspark. There are a number of advantages plus ease of finding parts pretty much anywhere in the US.
above is a link to a forum discussion on swapping TO a Duraspark...there might be some info there that would help you decide on the ignition swap. I going from the stock dual point stock system out of my 72L to the Duraspark. There are a number of advantages plus ease of finding parts pretty much anywhere in the US.
On sleeving a 351-C: the weakest part of a Cleveland block is the cylinder walls, and the next weakest is the heavily sculpted area just above the main bearing mounts. Wet-sleeving cuts a notch in exactly that area at the base of the sleeve just above the main supports, which is also press-fitted into it. Both operations weaken the entire block support. By only doing one cylinder per bank, blocks seem to not fail the crank supports. More than one sleeve per side does sometimes fail the block.
On the water pump discussion: the theoretical higher efficiency of a curved-vane vs a straight-vane pump has never shown up where its needed- by lowering the stabilized temperature of your coolant. So I take the $200 for the fancy pumps, buy a $79 aluminum Weiand 8209- which is half the weight of the cast iron ones, and drive on down the road. I now have 19 years and 50,000 miles on my Weiand.... note it does NOT have the stock warm-up bypass port so any old thermostat will also fit. But changing to a lower range thermostat won't lower your operating temp, either.
On the Duraspark conversion: I was one of the last hold-outs for points until 5 years ago when I changed. The parts are well-tested: they are a stock 460 Ford distributor, brainbox and coil and literally drop into a 351-C; the gear is also correct but still needs to be double-pinned. One other addition: use a later Ford e-coil rather than a stock can-of-oil coil for more temp stability. A can-coil will overheat from leaving the key ON with the engine OFF for more than 5 minutes; the coil will heat up, boil the oil inside, rupture the case, short and take out the Duraspark brainbox as well as a few wires. E-coils are immune to this problem, saving you $75 extra in repair parts. Sure, the parts are available anywhere but its still 30 minutes and $75 to swap out the burned up stuff. I have actually done all this to our Pantera; its not theoretical and it worked (still is working) for me.
On the water pump discussion: the theoretical higher efficiency of a curved-vane vs a straight-vane pump has never shown up where its needed- by lowering the stabilized temperature of your coolant. So I take the $200 for the fancy pumps, buy a $79 aluminum Weiand 8209- which is half the weight of the cast iron ones, and drive on down the road. I now have 19 years and 50,000 miles on my Weiand.... note it does NOT have the stock warm-up bypass port so any old thermostat will also fit. But changing to a lower range thermostat won't lower your operating temp, either.
On the Duraspark conversion: I was one of the last hold-outs for points until 5 years ago when I changed. The parts are well-tested: they are a stock 460 Ford distributor, brainbox and coil and literally drop into a 351-C; the gear is also correct but still needs to be double-pinned. One other addition: use a later Ford e-coil rather than a stock can-of-oil coil for more temp stability. A can-coil will overheat from leaving the key ON with the engine OFF for more than 5 minutes; the coil will heat up, boil the oil inside, rupture the case, short and take out the Duraspark brainbox as well as a few wires. E-coils are immune to this problem, saving you $75 extra in repair parts. Sure, the parts are available anywhere but its still 30 minutes and $75 to swap out the burned up stuff. I have actually done all this to our Pantera; its not theoretical and it worked (still is working) for me.
Superwrench. What is an e coil? That's not like what you get from eating bad burgers is it?