Took the new 418 for a maiden voyage and it overheated shortly after leaving the house.
Do these cars have bleeder valves on the cooling systems?
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it is possible you still have air pockets in the water jackets and coolant system. It will take several drives before you burp all of the air out. Also check the spark plugs and timing. If it is too retarded it will over heat. Also if it is running too lean it will over heat.
Mark, is there a bleeder on the radiator?
I guess I can try to drive it again, just seems like there should be a way to purge the air out of the system.
I guess I can try to drive it again, just seems like there should be a way to purge the air out of the system.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the rear should be up on jack stands to aid the bleeding of the cooling system.
How short a drive? Long enough for the t-stat to open I trust. I assume being a 418 this is Windsor motor and the Cleveland correct t-stat questions don't come into play?
Julian
How short a drive? Long enough for the t-stat to open I trust. I assume being a 418 this is Windsor motor and the Cleveland correct t-stat questions don't come into play?
Julian
If you have the original Rad, then there is a small return pipe (sometimes removed by owners) that uses a brass through bolt/ring at the upper right side. Bleeding is by way of cracking the bolt until coolant flows.
If you haven't done that then likely you have an air lock/pocket in the rad.
Julian
If you haven't done that then likely you have an air lock/pocket in the rad.
Julian
Is it the engine that is running to hot or is it the cooling system not operating properly?
An overbored block will run hotter. If the walls are to thin it may run to hot to correct.
A 160 thermostat is in order. If that isn't enough then a thicker core radiator may be needed.
Installing the headgaskets backwards will also create steam pockets and make it run hot.
Hopefully it is something simple and easy to correct.
An overbored block will run hotter. If the walls are to thin it may run to hot to correct.
A 160 thermostat is in order. If that isn't enough then a thicker core radiator may be needed.
Installing the headgaskets backwards will also create steam pockets and make it run hot.
Hopefully it is something simple and easy to correct.
raise the rear end of the car while you fill the coolant system with coolant, unplug any bleeds you have on the top of a radiator tank. Once coolant flows through the bleeds you can re-install the plug. Once its filled to the top of the swirl tank start the motor, let it idle for a while (rear end still jacked up) keep adding coolant until warm coolant starts to over flow the swirl tank, then intall the radiator cap. Continue running the engine, rear end still on jacks, for 10 minutes after it reaches operating temp. That'll help air in the radiator & tubes migrate towards the engine & swirl tank. Shut the motor off, lower the rear end, jack the front end up rather high, restart the motor and let it run in this position for 10 minutes. Dont jack the front end so high that you loose oil pressure by the way. Raising the front end helps air in the engine block migrate out through the thermostat casting. Shut the motor off, lower the front end, let it cool down, remove the radiator cap, and top off the swirl tank.
Doug's advice about the head gasket is very good, I've seen that one bite several folks on the butt over the years.
your friend on the DTIC
Doug's advice about the head gasket is very good, I've seen that one bite several folks on the butt over the years.
your friend on the DTIC