newbie with questions, be nice!!!!!!

quote:

current thoughts and experiences with Alkinline/chemical /dipping of the body or shell

The problem with dipping is getting all that fluid OUT of all the hidden inner seams and pockets. If not done properly, which I think involves some serious baking of the body, your paint will mysteriously start having seepage problems from the dipping solution finally finding a way out.

If the rust is as bad as you seem to be saying (GAWD, I hope YOU can do that work or the project is going to be REALLY expensive) you will have to cut out all the cancer and buy or fabricate replacement metal panels. If that is done right, the need for a dipping seems to be redundant. Your rust points all seem to be the standard spots. You should know the rockers are really three parts - outer, middle, and inner. If the two you mentioned are gone, then the middle unit is also history.

Welcome to our Family. The cars are well worth the time, misery and time we put into them.

We are here to help.

Larry

Bob,

Welcome to the wonderful world of Panteras, and to this board.

quote:

The problem with dipping is getting all that fluid OUT of all the hidden inner seams and pockets.

This is something I've oft read about, and just last month saw a friend's Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite that was dipped 5 years ago and has bubbling paint at body seams where some residual chemical agent/acid has leaked out on hot days. My friend is disgusted and say's 'never dip a car.'

Anyway, as Larry pointed out, the perceived benefits of dipping are mitigated if you're repairing rust correctly.

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...750022305#3750022305

http://www.banzairunnerpantera...chinfo_bestfixes.htm

Welcome aboard!
Garth
http://www.banzairunnerpantera.com

wow Marlin, Garth, Larry, thanks guys,
I run a restoration shop for a private collector here in Minnesota and we do a lot of mustangs , mostly boss 429s , boss 302's and boss 351's.
Our web site is kevinsklassics.com , check out our cars. this year we have 2 boss 429's going to Barrett Jackson this year and are lot # 1283, 1283.1.
So I'm really aware of the rust repair and labor that is involved. mustangs are really bad too, so i have seen the ugly side of this before, so I'm no virgin and i willing to step up and save this car!!!!! We have a paint booth and a car o liner spot welder, 4 hoists and 5 or 6 rotissories and have access to getting the shell coal slag blasted,no problem. WE also have tig and mig welder and I can cut off rusty metal with the best of them. My concern is that because of the structure design of the car and the abilty for the water to get into the sub frame and rails, i really want to do this one time and correctly. I have no interest in selling the car when complete. I have had the doors and hood ,hatch media blasted and there is ZERO rust. no pitting, pin holes, blisters, nothing,nice metal.
The rockers are severly rusted out ,as also the right inner wheel structure braces, I have one new old stock outer rocker , i will need the inner or middle section for both sides. The real concern is the rear engine area and the side rails in the rear wheel opening,
What if i drilled access holes to flush out the inner rails and then sprayed dp epoxy primer in the rails and then welded up the holes????? what about a por 15 sprayed into the rails, this stuff capsolizes the rust, i have use that product before and it realy works well. then replace the damaged areas,
Right now the car is on a rotissorie and completely disassembled.i want to do this correctly and this is why im here, for your guys input.
I have always dreamed of owning a Pantera and just ABSOlUTELY think it is a awesome car!!!

BTW, i did check the paint with a paint mill gauge and to see how much or any of the car had been painted before, and was factory spec thickness. the whole car was 1.8 to 2.6 mills thick, and is for sure enamel paint so the whole car except the frt of the hood was original. it has the original tires and is a complete car.

quote:

What if i drilled access holes to flush out the inner rails and then sprayed

Yes, that has been done and is a good way to coat/protect from future rust.

Make sure you do a thorough rust search with a hammer and center punch. No, I am not joking. If there are paper thin areas, that punch will find them.

See this page at www.panterplace for the common rust areas.

http://panteraplace.com/page57.htm

Larry

I am a huge fan of rustproofing -- not the crap from the 70's either; I am talking about modern materials that OEM's like BMW and Mercedes use today. Wurth has a great product to protect your inner box sections that cannot be gotten to very easily by epoxy primer or paints. This stuff will crawl like no tomorrow and displace moisture that is the bane of the mid continent in summer. People on the west coast do not need to use this stuff -- THEY LIVE IN A DESERT WITH LOW HUMIDITY! Here is a link to the Wurth product that I have used before, sorry about the Australian website; but it is the right stuff -- it is the "yellow" stuff:

Wurth Cavity Protection Spray


BMW and Mercedes use it, so it is definitely good for our cars too...... It will kill any rust from occurring on the inside of your raw panels -- just make sure you have access to the panel, and it needs to go in AFTER painting is completed -- it crawls that much! I do not have any experience with it, but I have seen ads for POR 15 as well. Might look into that as well, may do the trick for you.


Enjoy,

Mark

The Wurth product is very similar to Waxoyl we used to swear by in the UK. The UK environment is really harsh humidity, cold and salted roads in winter....that's partly why I'm in NV

It appears Rovers North is a US Waxoyl distributor, but their website says selling to professionals only. Maybe that won't be an issue if you have a restoration shop.

http://www.roversnorth.com/wax...sion-prevention.html

I found www.MiniMania.com selling it over the counter to us mortals....

Julian

Bob,

Sounds like you have the shop we all long for. Good to know you have the skills to do the job right.

quote:

What if I drilled access holes to flush out the inner rails and then sprayed dp epoxy primer in the rails and then welded up the holes?????

I expect that would work well, but you would first want to apply something to seal/stop the rust, otherwise it will merely rust under the epoxy primer. I have a large pipe cleaner dryer vent cleaner brush that I plan to shove through the frame rails while mounted to a drill to help dislodge loose material. Then I plan to spray a rust encapsulator product in there (Eastwood Corroless, Rust Bullet, or POR-15).

quote:

What about a por 15 sprayed into the rails, this stuff capsulizes the rust, I have use that product before and it really works well.

I've heard of Pantera owners corking/sealing the holes in the frame rails then filling them with POR-15 to coat all surfaces, then removing the plugs/corks and draining the excess. Would require you to purchase a large quantity to fill the cavities. I plan to try my application with a garden sprayer tip mounted to the end of a hose that can be pushed into the cavity and withdrawn as the product is sprayed.

Well, those are my novice ideas. I also like the Waxoyl product - heard great things about it from across the pond. Not sure if it can go over existing surface rust or if something has to be done to remove it first before sealing with Waxoyl.

Check out this post on body reinforcement to avoid the cracks so characteristic of Pantera body seams.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...=915108142#915108142

Attached is an article (A Primer on Rust) which is pretty interesting. And someone sent me a copy of an article on rust-proofing a Pantera a couple years ago. I'll see if I can find it and scan it for you.