No Start Problem

Update - I went ahead and pulled the dizzy cap. It's still running points. Also, the rotor does turn when I bump the engine over.

Hi John.

Some suggestions:

1. Pull the dist rotor & check inside to see if the raised portion that indexes with the slot on the upper end of the dist shaft has sheared.

2. Check the "button" inside the dist cap. This is what makes contact with the rotor.

3. Try cranking the engine for several revolutions while watching the rotor. Watch for a "smooth" rotation without jumping.

4. You could have a bad capacitor.

5. You could have a bad/intermittent/loose coil wire.

6. You could have a bad/intermittent/loose dist lead wire (the wire that connects the coil to the points).

7. You could have a bad/intermittent/loose dist ground wire. This is inside the distributor.

8. You could have a bad/intermittent coil or ballast resistor or resistance wire (depending upon year).

9. The timing chain could have jumped a tooth.

If you have 50k + miles on a stock chain, it's just a matter of time until it jumps. If you can get spark (while cranking) at #1 spark plug, try checking the timing while cranking the engine. If the timing is off by quite a bit (if I recall correctly, I think 18 deg = one tooth), then the chain has jumped. This assumes that the vibration damper on the crank pulley hasn't "turned". If the timing is off quite a bit, it could also be that the pin that secures the dist drive gear to the dist shaft has sheared, allowed the gear to rotate slightly on the dist shaft & then wedged the gear to the dist shaft. I have only seen this "wedging" condition once. Usually the pin just shears & you're done.

I hope that it's something simple.

John

quote:

Also, the rotor does turn when I bump the engine over.

Broken Distributor Gear !

Ron

Before you start to look for Bogie men that aren't there, I hate those guys, there are always two basic reasons an engine will not start.

1)fuel, or lack or it, sometimes too much, like a flooding carb

2)ignition. Not firing.

If the rotor turns consistantly the distributor gear is not broken. Oil pressure while cranking the engine will verify this.

Take a spark plug wire from a plug, any plug and put a paper clip in it. Hold it close to a grounded area like the unpainted surface of any metal portion of the engine and crank the engine over with the ignition on. If you see the arch the ignition is firing.

If you don't investigate why. Ford ignition systems sometimes will not fire if the cranking voltage is less the 11 volts, i.e., you need to read the voltage in the battery before you do any of this.

Ford ignition coils are also quite notorious for becoming intermitent. Sometimes they fire and sometimes they don't. MSD components are worse particulary if they lay unused for long periods of time.

You did verify that you have gas in the car right? Verify that there is fuel in the carbs. Work the throttle and make sure it is squirting fuel into the carb throats. Pull a spark plug. Is it wet or dry?

If you tell me that you have an MSD 6a in the car, go no further. This is a typical MSD brain failure scenario.

Good luck.

Sorry mis read that ... too many beers after hockey last night ... LOL

Measure the battery voltage. If less than 12 volts, charge (or replace) the battery. If you have a standard ignition (not an aftermarket ignition), connect a volt meter to the positive terminal of the coil & to ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position & read the voltage. Next, read the volt meter while cranking the engine. If the voltage reading drops significantly, you have an electrical problem. The early cars had a relay in the ignition circuit. It is located above the right side foot well.

Personally I would check the plugs, you may find them all black ( fouled ) or cruddy.
the psark takes the easiest path, and that is not always through the plug !!
if they are black ( which i suspect they are), either replace them, or run them over a wire wheel. If you can do all of them that is great.
I have hadthis happen many, many times, not in my Pantera though !!

I suspect that the rubbing block on the points is worn and they are not opening. Have somone crank over the engine while watching the points. You should see a good blue spark at one set of points. If not then make sure you have 12 volts to the coil and reset the point gaps.

Thanks for the replys. I decided to go ahead and replace the cap, rotor and plug wires since one was mismatched. She started right up.

I finally got a chance to really drive her last night and all is well.

Well, I spoke too soon. I decided to take the car into work since it was such a nice day. She started right up and drove great all the way there. I decided to go to lunch and she wouldn't start. Same symptoms as before. Turns over and over, but no spark. I am going to come back in the morning and replace the coil. If that doesn't solve it, a Pertronix is next. I am pretty sure the problem lies between the coil and the dizzy.

Check for voltage at the coil positive terminal with the key in the run position. Then check it while cranking the engine. Your car may have a relay in the ignition circuit.

Turns out the points had no gap. I replaced them with a Pertronix and all is well. I guess it worked intermittently.

Better carry a spare Pertronix also.

quote:

Originally posted by Joe6pack:
Turns out the points had no gap. I replaced them with a Pertronix and all is well. I guess it worked intermittently.

I installed a Pertronix about 5 years ago, no problems so far. And yes I do carry a spare!?