Parking Brake cables - question

Adrian, as far I can remember the cable is asymetric due to the asymetric position of the hand brake lever.  I played witht the cable right/left a bit to figure the best fit under the car/gear box. Mechanically the cable is a "rope" which is beeing pulled, forces on both sides are the same..as far I can recap from the old mechanic static lessions. 

Also Wilwood hand brake calipers incl. mods are nice vs the stock Peugeot stuff..(I have them installed)

Matthias

Thanks Matthias,

I thought that as the actual arm is actuating on the wheel which is not fully on the centre line of the car, it would be due to that kind of reason.  I do find the cables at the back tend to form excessive 'loops' and hence kind of bunch up a bit around the gearbox (maybe linked to why the exhaust came in contact with the outer sheath).

Do you recall if the longer cable goes on the left or right?

Thanks

Adrian

The longer one is to the right as the wheel is more to the left (just crawled  under the car - Brake booster replace and bleeding).

On the loop, well when the original Peugeot Brake calipers where still in place I had more issue with the clearance to the half shafts as the Peugeot require a pretty long loop to feed the 90 deg fixtures (from forward). I used the fixture under the gear box to "alight" the cables there then loop it between halfshaft and lower control  - on the inner side towards the gear box not between Shock and rim!. Again you have to play with them a bit to minimize the "loop" and same time so that cable is "max" straight. 

 With Wilwood handbrake is easier as the fixtures it straight forward, so here now cable goes between rim and shock.
I think non is critical in respect of brake performance more to get max space from the exhaust and half shafts!

Matthias 

Thanks again Matthias,

Yes, that makes sense...just wondering if it could be re engineered better going forward so will think on that.

How do you find the Wilwood handbrake caliper, I have heard mixed reviews on most of the after market ones?

Adrian

FWIW, I rebuilt the calipers and parking brake system on 3336 a couple of years ago. I did not notice a difference in the length of the new cable and had no problem during installation. Maybe I just got lucky and will have to take a look. Hard to tell if there is a difference in length from photo below.

FWIW #2 -- Regarding the rear calipers, I researched like crazy prior to rebuilding my calipers and could never find a Peugeot caliper that looks like the Pantera caliper--similar but not exactly. I did run across a Fiat Dino 2400 caliper that appears to be exactly like the Pantera caliper.

Hi RLee..,

So that is interesting, attached is a full picture of mine against some floor tiles just to show the difference.  I got the replacement from a very well known Pantera parts supplier in the USA and got it shipped here to the UK.  

Now it opens up more questions!  I wonder if the length is different on yours compared with mine (possibly the same on one side at least)?  I recall the inner core is 3.135m long tip to tip on mine.

As for the callipers, yes I did hear the Fiat Dino had similar/same as the Pantera, but also some others used the Girling caliper. I note there is a place in the USA selling a few different types (with/without the handbrake part), so I am sure there are other instances where the same caliper is used.

Adrian

Yeah, I'm beginning to think I just got lucky or would like to believe that I actually realized the different lengths as I was installing the cable since routing towards the rear is along the left side until the cable splits towards each caliper. So, it makes sense the right side needs to be longer. In addition, the Wilkinson Pantera parts catalog lists different part numbers for the RH and LH cable housing. This is the only other photo I have of the cable when still in its wrapper. Hard to tell, but the side of the cable that crosses under? the other side appears it might be a little shorter. Regardless, more Pantera trivia to fill the few open spaces left in my brain. 

-- How do you find the Wilwood handbrake caliper, I have heard mixed reviews on most of the after market ones? --

well the park brake  on Panter is not to the European MOT / TÜV spec.. .. this STOCK thing is just wimpy. US Regulation is different. So at Mot /TÜV you might get an issue. ( I nerver had due to super guy at the inspection knowing the US park brake is "wimpy" per design - same on my corevette C2- )
The willwood appears to be a caliper of motor cylcle level, floating caliper easy to adjust..honsesly still not the HEAVY handbrake measures at the test  but much better  (as we know in SF,CA you need to turn front weel towards the corner  stone ..very biiggg smile )

Matthias

Well folks,

It is interesting about the cables (and I thought it was going to be straight forward!) and I will look for the chassis clips and select the routing carefully when I get the new one made up this coming week).

As for the after market callipers for the parking/handbrake, it is a good point about the MOT test here as it becomes ever more stringent, so I will have to ask the UK club what they have done (most I know are like me and retain the original caliper at the rear just for the parking brake function)... oh and Yys and leave the transmission in gear when you walk away!

Cheers

Adrian

Hi Adrian,

just had my MOT in the Netherlands on my Pantera and parking brake was my main worry as I was missing the return spring on my LH caliper. I found that you can adjust the hand brake quite well by turning the 17mm nut but you need  the return spring (see pics) to have the piston release properly after releasing the hand brake. Luckily I got a break from the inspector and got my approval.

One tip, ensure that your new brake cable is not touching the hot exhausts. On my exhaust, previous owner welded a plate for that purpose, see pic.

Gr.

Joep

Hi Joep,

So, I agree and thank you for your comments.  You do need to make sure the handbrake is on about the 3rd click (to fully engage the beake) and the handbrake arm linkage is set right so that at full 'pull', the actuating arm has enough movement so as not to foul the crossmember mounting over the full range of travel.  I also recall each time I did it, there were only about 3 threads of the cable showing through after adjusting the 'nut' on each side.... not a lot given the length of the threaded cable section!

I also agree about the exhaust issue and am having my replacement cable built with some added heat protection, but like the idea of a welded plate.