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Just thought I would share. With a few minor modifications it is possible to use a Ford Escort MK2 Steering Rack on our Panteras. The advantage is that they are available with a ratio of only 2.4 as opposed to 3.2 on the OE and as a bonus the Escort Rack is approximately 5" shorter in the body which means less Bump Steer.

The price for the Rack and Tie Rod ends + extenders is about 290$


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Larry, yes you need a Lathe with a fairly large center bore to take the Rack. Then turn down the Diameter to accomodate the OE Saddle on the Steering Column side so the Saddle sits as far left as possible . On the right side a Nylon Bushing is inserted between Saddle and Rack. It is a tight fit and definately only works if the Bump steer spacers are there already. I still had to grind a bit of the Rack housing Lid away but not much!

The Plate on the Bulk Head (Steering Column) was moved about 10mm to the right.

All in all it is in fact a very easy modification if you are used to work on a Pantera
I did only 160kph so far and it felt rock steady compared to my old Rack wich had some play. The stability has more to do with Castor and Bump Steer than the Ratio isolated. With the 2,4 Ratio the driving experience just feels more right in my opinion! Unfortunately I cant post any new Photos as I am away at the momemt, what exactly were you after?

Also bear in mind that I have the speed dependend EZPowersteering which helps a lot at static or low speeds. I believe it is quite a handful otherwise to turn with less Ratio??
5" shorter is not going to help bump steer. The original rack was off by around 2" at the inner ball joint. If your pivots are 5" shorter that you have over shot the mark in the other direction by 3".

If you are off by a 1/4 you still get bump steer. As everyone knows the bump steer shims do not fix the bump steer, it just changes the location of the parabolic arch. It gets better in bump and far worse in droop.

Height is till a key part of nailing it. This is how I obtained zero bump steer and it took a lot of work and measuring to zero it in.

Notice how I got close but used a threaded shaft and a rebuild able ball joint so I could weld on it. This made the final width adjustable on the car. . . Then it was welded.

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