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I put new rubber on door holes, front and rear "trunk" holes, today. Always a nice thing to do when the old is so old it's coming apart.

But I was not happy with the closing mechanism on the rear lid, had to push the lock almost through the chassis. I did a lot of adjustment, but I was not happy. Conclusion was that the action on the moving lever was too small.

To make a long story short, the nipple-thing (sorry ladies) on the lock should have been more "erect" (sorry ladies), that would give me more movement of the lever. I couldn't weld something on, not iron, but I found a nut that almost could be screwed on (sorry ladies). Almost. After some testing, I put it in a wise and pressed it on the nipple (sorry ladies). It stays there, and the lever now moves 50% more, making adjustments easier.
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All this discussion of erect nipples threw me.

Maybe the latch got bent or warped over time? Mine adjusts just enough, and the rubbers (sorry ladies!) on the corner are screwed in just enough to hold the lid steady and even with out rattling.

Do you have photos of the now-erect nipples that won't shut the site down?
A few things to check; the rubber bumpers at both rear corners adjust in height. Make sure the bumpers are not holding the decklid up away from the latch.
If the paint on the decklid edges still chips, glue a rubber bicycle inner-tube patch in the outer part of both channels so the decklid hits the little rubber patch rather than steel when vibration or a rough road shakes it around.
The latch is die-cast and the hook portion wears with age & vibration. Eventually, it wears enough that it's no longer a hook, and will release the decklid while driving. It can be filed deeper to restore the hook, and may be reweldable with TIG.
It's very difficult to see from your picture but it appears that your nipple is completely gone from too much action Wink. If there is enough meat on the stub, you can drip and tap the point, put a small screw on it and adjust it to the original height of the nipple on the barrel or just buy a new barrel. I just don't know how to remove the lock out from the original to put on the new barrel unless you don't mind having a separate key for the decklid. If you have access to a lathe or know a machinist, you can cut a solid barrel out of an aluminum or stainless rod stock and forget the key altogether.
BTW... your barrel housing could use a bit of WD40

pick of nipple Smiler

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Last edited by liv1s
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