I have been told that jethot has a 460ish HP cut off for the shiny aluminum coating. I see this coating on just about every set of 180's. Have you guys w 500 plus HP had any issues? I suspect they are protecting themselves a bit.
Can anyone recommend a jethot service provider?
I see them around on the interwebs but who is happy w their coating?
Thanks, Paul...
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Not sure why any rating would be based on HP. Their ratings are based solely on temperature. Granted higher HP=higher temperatures but I can't imagine every 500HP engine results in the same exhaust temperature. I've sent my items directly to JetHot. Added bonus is they are about 45 minutes from my house.
Yeah, I never heard that before either. But she was very specific, I think she said 468HP.
Quick google search shows people concerned about exhaust temps on something as little as a quad runner at 1300 degrees (which seems very high) and the Jethot coatings going dull at that temp. So I am sure this is why they are telling you not to exceed cause then their warranty will be voided when you send it back.....
I am not aware of variations in the coatings. To me they are "ceramic" coating.
I had my headers done by Connecticut Coatings in New Haven. That was 10 years ago and still no isses.
I did not do a before and after temperature test so I cannot confirm or deny there is a containment of exhaust temps. I can tell you that I have burned myself several times by touching the headers when hot. There is no change in look to them so I get suckered in.
By comparison I have a set of JBA long tube headers on my 68 GT350 that are "factory" coated. There is a difference in appearance with them from new in that now they look dull like factory milled stainless steel.
I can not tell you that they are coated inside of the tubes like the Pantera headers are.
CT Coatings has a method of dipping the headers to remove rust without blasting them. They tumble them when done to give them a polished look.
Mine came out great. They also have different color options available such as satin black, blue and titanium. They claim that the black water spots but I don't know that as a fact.
The Pantera headers were about $450 to do in silver and the turn around was about a week. They have a web page and will accept them shipped in and will ship them back to you.
They also do other industrial coatings for equipment and buildings so they don't just do headers.
I also had them do the intake mainifold and valve covers on my 93 SHO Taurus. Those came out nice also.
Cobra Automotive uses and recommends them so I would suggest that you have nothing to loose by inquiring with them.
I have seen the shiny ceramic coating dull on a 400hp engine. The coating became dull during dyno tuning of the EFI system. I showed it to the shop that did the coating and they offered to redo it. He said it is best to dyno tune first and then coat the exhaust. He said that he rarely sees any issues outside of dyno tuning.
I reached out to them over at CT coatings.
Thank you gentlemen!
@stevebuchanan - Who did you use? and did they re-do them and how is it holding up?
Embee in Santa Ana. I never did take them up on their offer for a redo. The only part that dulled was where the headers connect to the cylinder heads. The entire balance of the exhaust stayed nice.
@stevebuchanan posted:I have seen the shiny ceramic coating dull on a 400hp engine. The coating became dull during dyno tuning of the EFI system. I showed it to the shop that did the coating and they offered to redo it. He said it is best to dyno tune first and then coat the exhaust. He said that he rarely sees any issues outside of dyno tuning.
I am running significantly more then 500hp. The headers have not changed color or finish in 10 years. Maybe it is just the quality of the application? I can't speak to that other then, "you can trust these guys with doing the best that can be done on your stuff".
I do have an early set of no-name Hooker headers for my 67 GT500 that need to be done so those will be a good test but I am thinking of doing them in black, which is why they aren't done yet. I can't decide but in that car you won't see them at all except from under the car.
On the JBA headers. First off they were $850. I don't mind the non-shiny finish. I kind of like the satin look. I'm more concerned that they will rust through. My current opinion though is that with the quality of the CT Coatings finish, you don't need stainless tubes. Mild steel exhaust tubing is fine with the two sided coating.
I would expect that the finish on the JBA's wouldn't be as good as the CT Coatings but I don't think that they paid their sub-contractor who coated the headers anywhere near $450. So, you get what you pay for.
Actually the nicest finish was the "Titanium". Those were PRETTY!
On the picture, I'm not running those air cleaners any more.
OH! VERY IMPORTANT: fit your headers to the car FIRST. Often you need to use a hammer on them here and there to clear something that no one expected. Yes it's extra work I know but you don't want to have to bang on them AFTER you coat them! Don't worry about loosing performance on dimpling headers. There have been dyno runs that prove there was no change in power even with extreme dings.
He said that extended dyno runs are the culprit because the car is stationary inside a small building with a couple of fans blowing on the radiator. The dyno tuning was like one or two dozen drag races in succession and heat at the header openings keeps accumulating. Again, most of the exhaust coating looked like new (much like the coating on your 180's) for many years. Only a few inches of the header tubes near the cylinder head were dulled.
Doug, Is this the correct place?
@plt-1 posted:Doug, Is this the correct place?
Yes.
@stevebuchanan posted:He said that extended dyno runs are the culprit because the car is stationary inside a small building with a couple of fans blowing on the radiator. The dyno tuning was like one or two dozen drag races in succession and heat at the header openings keeps accumulating. Again, most of the exhaust coating looked like new (much like the coating on your 180's) for many years. Only a few inches of the header tubes near the cylinder head were dulled.
I agree that coating the headers is the last thing that you should do.
It's not the end of the world. A little dulled ceramic coating shows that you survived a dyno run.
@stevebuchanan posted:It's not the end of the world. A little dulled ceramic coating shows that you survived a dyno run.
MY JBA's are that way. It comes from trying to lean out the idle. The headers will actually glow red in the dark for about 4-6" coming off of the heads.
They wind up a dull stainless steel mill finish look there. You can polish it out again if you want to.
My Pantera 180°'s were coated after the Webers were set up so it is likely why they did not suffer the same fate? Those are the Hall's. Made by Stan up at Ford Power Parts. You don't need to move the a/c condenser for them.
