I want to have a polished firewall and heat sheild for my pantera.
What guage metal should I use?
Aluminum polished with high heat clear?
Or stainless polished?
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You want to use polished stainless steel. I believe that it is 22 gauge and comes in a 3 foot by 8 foot sheet. One side is "mill finish", some call brushed chrome (like your refregerator is, and the other is "mill polished". In order to get it to gleam like chrome you are going to need to buff if with jewelers rouge and a buffing wheel.
Stainless steel is much harder then steel. You don't want to use a heavier gauge because of the difficulty in bending it.
When you cover the firewall, you have the option of using rigid foam insulation between the bulkhead and the stainless panel. I believe that I was able to get 1-1/2" thick foam in there.
The gas tank shielding can be let in place and just covered over with the stainless.
I believe that I had enough material left from one sheet to make new stainless splash shields shields in the fender wells with the left over materials.
I didn't make a a/c condenser shield from stainless but bought one from Hall Pantera.
All the stainless sheet on the car changes the nature of the basic car and is definitely a plus.
Keep in mind that it is likely that if you buy it from a vender that it isn't easy to ship the sheetmetal without it getting crimped from shipping. I made my own except for the a/c condenser cover.
I know. Will is going to want pictures again.
Will. I did this stuff before digital cameras and before I "joined" this club. No one except me ever gave a flying fig about the details onmy Pantera. Actually still no one wants to see pictures of the details in the family album. That would just make Uncle Doug weirder then he already is. 
Stainless steel is much harder then steel. You don't want to use a heavier gauge because of the difficulty in bending it.
When you cover the firewall, you have the option of using rigid foam insulation between the bulkhead and the stainless panel. I believe that I was able to get 1-1/2" thick foam in there.
The gas tank shielding can be let in place and just covered over with the stainless.
I believe that I had enough material left from one sheet to make new stainless splash shields shields in the fender wells with the left over materials.
I didn't make a a/c condenser shield from stainless but bought one from Hall Pantera.
All the stainless sheet on the car changes the nature of the basic car and is definitely a plus.
Keep in mind that it is likely that if you buy it from a vender that it isn't easy to ship the sheetmetal without it getting crimped from shipping. I made my own except for the a/c condenser cover.
I know. Will is going to want pictures again.
Will. I did this stuff before digital cameras and before I "joined" this club. No one except me ever gave a flying fig about the details onmy Pantera. Actually still no one wants to see pictures of the details in the family album. That would just make Uncle Doug weirder then he already is.
You can have stainless steel processed with a chemical polishing process. Saw it on "How its Made" TV show. Very cool no labor at all to get it to shine. I have no idea the cost of it though.
Jeff
Jeff
Robert,
Try here:
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com
They have an outlet in Burnaby. We buy pre-polished sheet all the time and I think that's where my guys order it from. Otherwise, look for any commercial metal distributor. It comes in 4x8 sheets (usually) but only a few thicknesses, and at Metal Supermarkets, they will sell/cut as required.
Good luck!
Try here:
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com
They have an outlet in Burnaby. We buy pre-polished sheet all the time and I think that's where my guys order it from. Otherwise, look for any commercial metal distributor. It comes in 4x8 sheets (usually) but only a few thicknesses, and at Metal Supermarkets, they will sell/cut as required.
Good luck!
I tackled it during one of the early incarnations of my car. It was six or seven years ago but I bought a sheet of 300 series stainless from one of the local distributors. Full hard 304 sheet I think. It was somewhere in the .035-.040" range. I made paper templates aided by use of the original firewall jute and then added stock for a 1/2" step and mounting tab around the perimeter to accomodate foil backed temp/sound insulation. I pretty much reproduced the stock engine shield in stainless with 5/16" fold around the perimeter and attached insulation to the backside but didn't sandwich it between metal like the stock aluminum shield. Then I paid a visit to a friend's shop to use his shear and brake. Polished it up with a big buff and jewlers rouge and installed. A lot work, some extra weight, but shows well, cleans up easy. It does oxidize and dulls a bit with time. Have never regretted it. Worth it IMO.
Kelly
Kelly
I am putting a SS firewall cover in as well.
Mine came with the 4.6 from Wilkinsons.
B.G.
Mine came with the 4.6 from Wilkinsons.
B.G.
The SS polish that I bought in the hardware store for the kitchen sink works pretty well on buffing up the old stainless with an old t-shirt. It basically wipes off the oxidation that Panterror refers to. DO NOT use an SOS or BRILLO pad on it. The stainless will hold microscopic steel particles from the steel wool and will make it look rusty. My SS panels mic out at .040". I am very sure that it is 304 stainless.
My supplier here keeps non-polished 20 gauge in 48" x 96" and polished in 22 gauge at 36 x 96". They like to roll it up and tape it together for you. Make sure that if this is how you carry it home that you put a safety ROPE around it. If the tape suddenly lets go this thing will unwind like a spring and if ANYTHING is in the way will likely cut in half like a huge razor blade. No joke. Tie it with a strong safety rope.
My supplier here keeps non-polished 20 gauge in 48" x 96" and polished in 22 gauge at 36 x 96". They like to roll it up and tape it together for you. Make sure that if this is how you carry it home that you put a safety ROPE around it. If the tape suddenly lets go this thing will unwind like a spring and if ANYTHING is in the way will likely cut in half like a huge razor blade. No joke. Tie it with a strong safety rope.
How much of this work do you want to do yourself? All the vendors sell SS firewall and gas tank covers off the shelf for about $350 the pair.
I saw one car that the firewall was being covered in brushed aluminum and I must admit it looked damn nice, plus Al doesn't add the weight the SS does.
I saw one car that the firewall was being covered in brushed aluminum and I must admit it looked damn nice, plus Al doesn't add the weight the SS does.
Thanks for all the info.
This help a great deal.
Robert
This help a great deal.
Robert
If your interested in engine turned stainless go to: www.fpmmetals.com. They have a large assortment of styles available.
Mark
Mark
quote:plus Al doesn't add the weight the SS does.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aluminum will oxide much quicker than stainless, no?
Will
I think that the weight difference here is insignifigant. The point of using SS is that it has virtually no oxidation, i.e., rust.
You need to "clean" it occasionally.
You need to "clean" it occasionally.
While performing this task, now would be a good time to replace any missing engine cover bolts and secure (tack weld) those existing ones that just spin rather than unbolt.
quote:While performing this task, now would be a good time to replace any missing engine cover bolts and secure (tack weld) those existing ones that just spin rather than unbolt.
I'm right at this stage and considering a switch to quick release or dzus type fasteners.
quote:Originally posted by roofit7774:
I want to have a polished firewall and heat sheild for my pantera.
What guage metal should I use?
Aluminum polished with high heat clear?
Or stainless polished?
I am a few weeks away from doing the same to my firewall. I have been asking around to see what others have done. I'll post a few pix, which will hopefully help in your decision making.
My take (being located far away from all the vendors) is to find someone local to fabricate any metal work ... and then order the Dynamat/Koolmat direct from a supplier.
Attachments
Images (1)
Nice Photos EA.
The yellow car looks alot like Richard Barkley's car.
I am using B-Quiet as sound insulation (like Dynamat only less expensive and its made in Lethbridge!) Its also available on Ebay.
Check out this link
http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html
HTH
B.G.
The yellow car looks alot like Richard Barkley's car.
I am using B-Quiet as sound insulation (like Dynamat only less expensive and its made in Lethbridge!) Its also available on Ebay.
Check out this link
http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html
HTH
B.G.
Yes! This is what I've been waiting for: a lead on a solid product that is available in my own backyard! Thanks, BG!
Does anyone know what i can use to attach the stainless to the firewall?
Please add pics if you have them.
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
Robert
Any luck with our fedex problem?
Maybe someone else can help us on the forum!
Any luck with our fedex problem?
Maybe someone else can help us on the forum!
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
Robert, I have used construction adhesive (PL brand from Home Depot) to glue many things, even rock in an exterior retaining wall, there is probably a body shop equivalent but I swear by this product as it has not failed me yet.
quote:Robert
Any luck with our fedex problem?
Maybe someone else can help us on the forum!
Ummm...what is the problem then? If it is a cross border shipping issue, the answer is to use USPS. Both UPS and FedEx charge exorbitant customs brokerage fees, although I think a lot depends on what 'class' goods it is. Declaring as used antique car parts or the like, may get some relief.
Hopefully it can be handled soon i don't want to air dirty laundry on the forum.
The reason I didnt send money to fed ex right away is because out of the 60 or so transactions i have had with ups/fed ex/dhl/ and canda post If there was any duty owing on the part they make me pay it before they release
the item in question.
With your transaction i paid about $30.00 at the door and everything was fine. Then I get a message from you that i did not pay fed ex about $80.00.
I did not have a chance to go and check this out sooner because i have been very busy with work (self-employed).
As I mentioned to you in an earlier e-mail if there is a problem with fed ex i will pay what i owe.
The parts that you sold me were in perfect condition and a very good deal. The delivery was quick and i had no complaints.
I still need to buy more parts for my car and i'm sure i will have to deal with fed ex
in the future.
Also, if i could not afford an exrta $80.00 i would not be doing a ground up resto on this car.
If you check the provamo web site #5172 you can see i have spent a lot of money on the car to get it where it is and i am very sure that there are still a lot more bills to come.
Fed ex will be coming to my door in the next week or so from another order that i placed with pim.net for water tubes and a couple other things.
I spoke to someone at fed ex and they said that they will add the extra charges at the door. They also told me that this does not happen to often.
the item in question.
With your transaction i paid about $30.00 at the door and everything was fine. Then I get a message from you that i did not pay fed ex about $80.00.
I did not have a chance to go and check this out sooner because i have been very busy with work (self-employed).
As I mentioned to you in an earlier e-mail if there is a problem with fed ex i will pay what i owe.
The parts that you sold me were in perfect condition and a very good deal. The delivery was quick and i had no complaints.
I still need to buy more parts for my car and i'm sure i will have to deal with fed ex
in the future.
Also, if i could not afford an exrta $80.00 i would not be doing a ground up resto on this car.
If you check the provamo web site #5172 you can see i have spent a lot of money on the car to get it where it is and i am very sure that there are still a lot more bills to come.
Fed ex will be coming to my door in the next week or so from another order that i placed with pim.net for water tubes and a couple other things.
I spoke to someone at fed ex and they said that they will add the extra charges at the door. They also told me that this does not happen to often.
deniscCaretaker of 8MA1244 '70 Euro Mangusta DRIVE THEM, THEY WERE MEANT TO BE DRIVEN, IF YOU WANT TO LOOK AT ONE, BUY A POSTER!
I have had the same type of situations also. FedEx has even sent me a bill for brokerage 45 days after the delivery. I now ask for USPS (blue) shipping and ask that the packing slip and box be identified as:Parts for a '74 Car (add USED when parts are used), delivery is usually 10 to 14 days but no surprises.
Robert,
These brokerage fees (along with cold weather, taxes...) kill us up here. I often find it cheaper to ship parts to a border location within the USA (say a UPS store in Blaine, WA?) and collect/clear them myself. As long as the border agents aren't idiots, and you have a valid passport, it should be fine.
CBSA Chapter 99, Section 9966.00.00 states that all vehicles and parts used solely for those vehicles are duty free. PST and GST still apply, but no other fees should be charged.
Brokerage fees are usually included with Priority shipments via UPS AND FedEx, but with large or heavy parts, the cost of shipping alone will kill you. Ground shipments are always whacked with these crazy brokerage fees. Items sent via post (if they are small and light get away with a flat $5 fee from Canada Post (plus taxes).
Good luck!
Mark
These brokerage fees (along with cold weather, taxes...) kill us up here. I often find it cheaper to ship parts to a border location within the USA (say a UPS store in Blaine, WA?) and collect/clear them myself. As long as the border agents aren't idiots, and you have a valid passport, it should be fine.
CBSA Chapter 99, Section 9966.00.00 states that all vehicles and parts used solely for those vehicles are duty free. PST and GST still apply, but no other fees should be charged.
Brokerage fees are usually included with Priority shipments via UPS AND FedEx, but with large or heavy parts, the cost of shipping alone will kill you. Ground shipments are always whacked with these crazy brokerage fees. Items sent via post (if they are small and light get away with a flat $5 fee from Canada Post (plus taxes).
Good luck!
Mark