Skip to main content

Adams ... always one eye on the wheel and one eye on personal ... but I;m in the correction mode at this time ... I;m busy but see it ending after the 1st of the year .. cutting crew size and open and willing to suggestion ? As always.

Michael ... thanks .... but I try to sneak in a few hours when ever I can ... but as always I have you in mind ? Call me what are you up to ? I;m in Westchester tommorrow .. lunch at DANTES on central ave ..the best Italian deli in NY ... wanna meet ! I should be there around 12.

Thanks Guys,

I put her back up on the rotissere today ... so I could complete the welding under ... I have to make some repairs in the front and install some reinforcing in the front ... also I need to chaneg to rerouting of the cooling tubes .. way too much hose and hose clamps on these cars. and the motor is almost done .. but my builder sold his dyno .. I;m kinda pissed at this .. so now I have to take it elsewhere to dyno it.

What ga of steel are the floors and braces?

In the pics there are no visible waves in the bottom. That is tough to do over that span.
Good Job.

I made mine, which are much smaller, out of
16ga and had to bead roll them.

I like how you did the braces on the inside that cleans it up nice.
IIRC the later cars with the drop pans still have the braces underneath?

How will these pans affect your heel to pedal distance?

Keep up the good work. Cool

Its 18ga ..very hard to bend .. its only 22" wide .. I added 2 cross members front and rear because some strength is lost with flat bottom pans .. have not mounted the pedals yet .. but there was a short section below the pedal area that had to be left in place because it was a structural member that I didnt remove.

My other car 9138 has minumal cross braces. I kind of used that car as my guide making these pans. 9138 has factory dropped pans the entire floor also. 7" from the door sill.


Ron, the car is going to be two hundred pounds heavier with all that weld! Big Grin Incidentally I reinforced the flat floor pans with 3/4w x 3/8"h channel iron on the bottom of the pans. Actually you only need to deal with that where the seats attach. My pans aren't full though only 1/2 just to lower the seats.

If you lower the entire floor pan on the drivers side, don't you need to lower the pedals an equal amount in order to reach them? Hum? I need to think about that one too.

How did you solve the roll cage through the rear window? I forget what you did there?

Great work. I'm sure you are glad you don't have to pay yourself? Smiler What are you at 500hrs?
Doug ... 18 ga wieghs 1.950 per sq ft x 20 sqft = 39 lbs total .. what I took off had to be heavier then that ? whats was factory 20ga ?

What was in the picture ..for the seats I;m rethinking that .. your idea of channel iron is better .. I need some thing to fasten seats to and the sheetmetal isnt gong to cut it .. I was also thinking some unistrut and insert nuts ?

Yes the pedals as Brooke mentioned .. I havent dealt with either .. because I really need the room up front for the fuel cell and the booster is in the way .. I researched smaller boosters, Hydrauilc boosters, and NO BOOSTER ... using a WILWOOD pedal set up with 3 little masters ? Any ideas Point me in the right direction.

Roll Cage thru the rear window will work nice. take a look .. I made plates and will add a gasket.

Hours ... I learned long ago .. STOP COUNTING ... LOL



Images (1)
  • roll_cage_020
I don't count the hours, my wife does. Like Forest Gump said, "and that's all I'm gonna' say 'bout that!" Big Grin

There is a lot of room for pedals in there especially if you drop the floor 2". Yikes there is alot BUT if this is a race car you want to have access, easy access to them at the track.

The stock location is actually not bad for that at all. You can stand up and service them in the front trunk the way they are now.

If you move them to the floor assembly, which can be done, you could come up with some type of a trap door assembly BUT you most likely will be on your back, under the car to work on them.

Look at the Cobra setup. Maybe you could adapt that and have it swing down to service it, using -3 aeroquip 8807 teflon lined hoses instead of tube so it could be flexable?
Ron, A remote booster (hot rod style, See TCI's setup) could save that under hood room. And-Or maybe move the whole pedal assembly back about 1.5 to 2 inches might create room and even make driving position easier. No?
The later Panteras with factory drop flor pans have a virtually flat floor, no bracing other than a front to rear strengthening brace between the seat bolt holes.

The pedals are the same ones in later cars with dropped floors, so why would it be an issue here?

I take it this is a race car, for which I assume you'll install upgraded brakes? So why do you even need a brake booster?

I don't have boosters on either the Ultima or the GT40. The Ultima has excellent braking (AP Racing), the GT40 being C4 Corvette brakes does take some pedal stomping to stop in a hurry, but that is partly due to the pedal position at present as it currently has hanging pedals which I'm going to change to a Tilton floor mount this winter, plus switch to Wilwood calipers. Both cars have dual brake masters with adjustable bias.
Yes that is the alternative is moving the pedals back and is very well possible because depending on hich can Is use the motor may not produce enouh vacumn for the booster.

Joules your right ..I tried to duplicate this carwith my other car 9138 and yes the later years have flat floors and the pedals work fine .. the problem is not the floors or pedals ..but te booster and masters ..conflict with a fuel cell up front. Which leads into the pedals ..then te floor issues .. floor mounted pedals are agreat idea ..except I think as Doug mtioned ..then access to the masters are a little diffuclt. And a Race Car well I scrapped that idea a while ago ..but it will be very capable with Wilwood brakes.. andthansk for the advise on Booster or n Booster .. please elabrate further on what your using versue o booster and if it woks OK.

Re the stud girdle shown: Ridgeway's 3-bar street/track girdles will fit under 'Detomaso' or Ford-HO cast valve covers with no alterations, except removing the tin splash baffles from the covers. Things are very tight but stock twist-in breather caps & PCV valves fit and one can add oil as-stock. Mine have been in place since 1991 with zero trouble. NASCAR-grade girdles are bigger and stiffer for the 9000+ rpms they turn, so they need bigger valve covers. I recommend a stud girdle on Panteras as insurance: if a rocker stud breaks, the engine will run normally at lower rpms to get you home without a tow truck.
Load it into the truck and take it up to Joe LaPine in Danbury (Danbury Competition). I don't see why he wouldn't still have the dyno.

Call him first. I've got the number around here somewhere but you can get it from information.

It was $250 to run it but that was then and now is now. Dyno headers could be the issue.

Give him a shout. It can't hurt.
Thanks David / Will ... details ... I dont know I gave him a pile of used parts and he put it together ? LOL

9.2 deck SVO block, 3.75 scat crank 6.12 h beams, JE 11 to 1 pistons, Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam and SS rockers, C302b heads titanium valves and retainers, Edelbrock intake, moroso distr .. all ARP bolts .. now I have to search for a local guy with a dyno and some 180's.

Link copied to your clipboard.