Any solutions (other than replacement) thanks!
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Be sure it is the cable. I chased this problem for a while. The problem was the carb shaft, not the cable.
Speaking from experience... I would replace the throttle cable especially if it is an older one. It is no fun being in the middle of nowhere going up a mountain and having your throttle cable snap! Amazingly enough one of our club members who was on the road run with us had an extra cable. We changed it on the side of the road with very little room to work with. Just a thought...
If you don't want to change the throttle cable yet, remove it from the car (about 30 minutes work) hang it vertical, pour gasoline down the cable at a dribble rate, push and pull the cable and voila, a piece of teflon of something will slide out. Keep pouring gasoline down the cable and working it back and forth until the cable slides smoothly, while cleaning the ends of the cable with a rag, then when the gasoline turns clear, and no more dark debris comes off the cable ends, lubricate with 3-in-1 oil or WD-40 and re-install the cable.
When you re-install the cable, secure a piece of fuel hose to the section of throttle cable going thru the firewall. This is where the outer rubber sheath of the cable wears thru and causes a slight vibrating noise under acceleration. Probably a good idea to tie a piece of fuel hose all the way to the end of the throttle cable where the clevice is attached to the intake manifold. This will shield the cable from heat and provide support for the outer throttle cable housing, so that the SS braided line has a smooth run-way. It's going to saw through the outer coiled sheath after a while though, so it's just a temporary fix. You can use zip-tie wraps from Radio Shack to secure the fuel hose to the outer throttle cable housing.
If your vendor is out of stock for throttle cables, you can contact California Push-Pull, Inc. They specialize in custom built cables, with any type of length or connecting end we may need.
http://www.push-pull.com/
When you re-install the cable, secure a piece of fuel hose to the section of throttle cable going thru the firewall. This is where the outer rubber sheath of the cable wears thru and causes a slight vibrating noise under acceleration. Probably a good idea to tie a piece of fuel hose all the way to the end of the throttle cable where the clevice is attached to the intake manifold. This will shield the cable from heat and provide support for the outer throttle cable housing, so that the SS braided line has a smooth run-way. It's going to saw through the outer coiled sheath after a while though, so it's just a temporary fix. You can use zip-tie wraps from Radio Shack to secure the fuel hose to the outer throttle cable housing.
If your vendor is out of stock for throttle cables, you can contact California Push-Pull, Inc. They specialize in custom built cables, with any type of length or connecting end we may need.
http://www.push-pull.com/
Perhaps you should use solvent rather than gasoline! I attached my throttle cable to the point where it penetrates the fire wall by pop rivetting a small hose clamp to the fire wall then running the cable through the clamp and tightening the clamp. The cable doesn't move at all then.
[This message has been edited by BD (edited 09-06-2003).]
[This message has been edited by BD (edited 09-06-2003).]
quote:
Originally posted by SW:
Any solutions (other than replacement) thanks!
SW,
I ordered a new throttle cable from a vendor and shipment was delayed. When I received it I was excited to get it installed. After installation, it had 1.75" excess length to the cable. I had to pull it back out again, and figure out what to do. The fitting at one end was 1.75" longer than what I had on my old cable. I have an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and a Holley 600 CFM carb. I think this is a very common set up on Pantera's, so I was disappointed to find that the fitting did not have threads all the way to the end. If it did, then I could have just cut the fitting down 1.75" and got the job done. I had to wait until the following day to take the throttle cable down to my mechanic and ask him to thread it with his tap and die set, since I do not own a tap and die set and didn't want to purchase this entire tool set for this one project. I got the new throttle cable installed and adjusted it so the vacuum secondaries would fully open, and then adjusted the throttle pedal stops under the dash, so as not to break the cable or the gas pedal.
Then I took her for a drive on a country road. While accelerating at a speed and gear which made it pull like a jet on a runway, I smelled gasoline. Not good, so I slowly limped her home, weary of a fire in the engine compartment. In the driveway, I found a pool of gasoline 3/8" deep on the passenger side on the intake manifold, up forward by the firewall.
I am getting burned out on pumping so much time and money into this Pantera that I sort of wrote a post, which Mark refers to below, such that I need to edit it. It is just kind of taking the fun out of it when parts arrive late and when they don't fit. I hope that vendors will thread future fittings all the way down to the ends, so that we can cut them to fit. I understand there are many types of intakes and fuel delivery systems being used, so it's probably a good idea to keep the fittings a little long to accomdate everyone, but if they were threaded, then individuals without expensive, specialized tools could cut the excess off and get the project completed with simple tools. A nice compromise for everybody. When a part is going to be delayed, it would be courteous to call the customer and tell him, so he can plan accordingly. If a part is back-ordered, it would be a decent thing to do to tell the customer that it may take a week or two to deliver, so the customer can decide whether to place the order or not. I get in deep trouble in my business when I make promises I can't keep, so I guess I expect that suppliers be candid about delivery times. My mechanic said this happens (delays and back-orders) all the time, and it gets him and his customers angry too.
In fairness to the vendor, his lady on the telephone told me she was new and uncertain about what she was doing. I think she even forgot to ask my phone number and I forgot to tell her. Maybe the owner was on a short vacation, since after-all, it was the day after Labor-Day. Maybe any number of things could have happened.
For sure, I was even more frustrated because my carb was/is dumping fuel onto my intake manifold. I'm going to put a cover on this thing to keep dust off, but really so I don't have to look at it. I'm going to 'put it away for a while' because this is no fun, causes me frustration I don't need, but I'm not ready to give up on it yet. I just can't keep dumping $100's of dollars into it every month, like a new carb with no gaskets below the float level, $300 and up a long way from there.
Hope everything bolts together a lot more smoothly with your stroker project this winter Mark. One suggestion, since you asked before. I'd get out some 1000 grit sandpaper and polish up the gas tank heat shiled while you have the engine out. That's just me, I like shiny parts. When everthing goes wrong, it can be a nightmare, and I hope it turns out better than your wildest dreams.
I'm sick and tired of my project right now, so I shouldn't have taken a cheap shot, but maybe there are some humans on this BB wh'[ve been there before, only who exercised a bit more self control. I admire that.
[This message has been edited by ron norman (edited 09-15-2003).]
Ron ,sorry to hear about your troubles,but when you get the car sorted out it will be worth it.For what its worth usually when a Holley carb is pouring gas out like you describe it has a piece of dirt stuck in the needle and seat.To prevent this from happening you need to use a good paper fuel filter such as Frams g3 for a 3/8 line or a g2 for a 5/16 line.DO NOT USE A GLASS FILTER(major fire hazard).Good luck
Thanks for all the support!
quote:
Originally posted by grngt5:
Ron ,sorry to hear about your troubles,but when you get the car sorted out it will be worth it.For what its worth usually when a Holley carb is pouring gas out like you describe it has a piece of dirt stuck in the needle and seat.To prevent this from happening you need to use a good paper fuel filter such as Frams g3 for a 3/8 line or a g2 for a 5/16 line.DO NOT USE A GLASS FILTER(major fire hazard).Good luck
grngt5,
Thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I put an Edelbrock p/n 1405, 600 cfm on and it is a polished aluminum carb, so it looks great on the polished Edelbrock Performer intake manifold. Not only that, but it really added more horsepower and responsiveness to throttle input than I ever could have imagined. It was the best horsepower bang for the buck I could have ever imagined. Next step is to get the $52 Edelbrock carb tuning kit and play with the metering rods, main jet, secondary jet and metering rod spring settings. Then I'm going to have it dyno tested. In the process my mechanic inspected it and informed me that it already has a double roller timing chain installed and it has a new clutch installed. He thinks it is a Centerforce clutch. He said the red color probably means it is an 8,000 pound pressure plate. He said they are color coded for pressure. He said this should hold up to just about as much horspower as I can possibly get out of the 351-c.
Yes sir, it will probably be worth it, but it was another $500+ in September. Month after month, since I got it in May of this year. Can't be too many more $500 months ahead though. It is the best of times and the worst of times. But I'm thrilled to see she's been well provided for in the past.