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I have noticed many posts and pictures (see this one of Coz's suspension zerks) on this subject. It looks simple enough and I was planning to install grease zerks on all my suspension parts. But now looking at the arms and the bushings I am confused.

If you install zerks through the arm where the bushing goes, all that gets lubed is the outside of the bushing, not the shaft that needs it. What's the point of that?


To get the grease to the moving shaft inside the bushing, you would either have to drill through the bushing (not recommended) or grind off some of both bushings to create a channel between the two sides of the bushing. Even if you did that, how would the grease get through to the shaft? It's a pretty tight fit.

I must be missing something. Can someone exdplain this?

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  • coz
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Exactly what I thought.

Because those squeaks kill me as I cut the engine (to save the wrath of the wife, kids and neightbors) and then coast into the garage early AM or late at nite.

But I can't even see light between those bushings and they aren't even bolted in place yet which further compresses them together.
Huh? You're saying the movement is on the outside of the bushing? That would sure wear out a bushing pretty fast.

Since the steel tube inside the bushing is longer than the bushing, when tightened the movement should be confined to the steel tube and the friction is on its outside against the inside of the bushing, no?
I had the same question you did about the control arm bushings, but never did get an answer I could understand. The best explanation I came up with for myself was that, while the rubber part of the bushing does not pivot in the eye of the control arm (because the steel sleeve rotates around the mounting bolt), it will compress and perhaps twist. So my theory is that this causes the squeeking that the grease zerk is intended to address. Mike Drew sort of confirmed this when he wrote elsewhere as follows:

"...realize that the noise you're hearing is NOT coming from the interface
between the outside of the bushing and the inside of the suspension arm. The
noise you're hearing is coming from the ENDS of the bushings where they are
rotating against the yoke. The mounting bolts use Nylock nuts, and they are
just supposed to be snug, no more. Some people go crazy and torque the hell out
of the nuts, which pinches the yokes and basically binds up the suspension;
the thing then creaks something wicked."

The sleeve-to-bolt contact, being metal on metal, may not be as inclined to squeek? Anyway, not being one to question the wisdom established by people who know infinitely more than I do, I installed zerks exactly as shown in the photo you posted and, for what it's worth, I have had no squeeking so far.

While we're on the subject of grease zerks, here's my stab at explaining what Pat Mical told me about the lower control arm shafts. His theory is that, in order to get the grease to circulate, you have to grind a spiral groove into either the shaft or the hole in the upright or both (I can't remember which). In short, if you want to install a grease zerk in your rear uprights, I'd give Pat a call and have him explain it to you directly. Either that, or do what I did and order the greasable shaft kit from Pantera East and save yourself a whole lot of trouble.
Last edited by peterh
My question is the grease to lubricate the bushing or just to stop squeaking? My bushings are graphite impregnated and do not squeak at this time.

The zerk fittings on the uprights my car had zerk fittings in the middle of the upright with a hole drilled through the upright but not through the sleeve in the middle. It was siezed up with rust where water had gotten in around the attachment rod. When I rebuilt the uprights I added two zerk fittings, one at each end of the uprights. The brass bushings had a groove cut in them to allow the grease to cover the entire surface. I also drilled the sleeve to allow the grease to reach the inside of the sleeve. I filled the entire assembly with waterproof grease.
Richard T.
Dennis Yogi from Hawaii has written elsewhere that, in the case of his poly bushings, regular grease cut down on squeeking but synthetic grease eliminated it altogether.

Mike Drew has written as follows:

"...I'm told that conventional grease, which is what you would
be using with a grease fitting, is a very poor choice for this particular job.
Some advocate using white teflon tape, others use some sort of magic goo
that often comes with poly bushings from the vendor, but I have followed Dennis Q
uella's advice and used Permatex silver anti-seize on all my cars. It works
absolutely wonderfully, and doesn't seem to degrade over time."
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