Temp reading per sender at the block

Does it boil over? If not, it isn’t overheating although 110°C seems too hot. Are you sure you have all air out of the system? Are you sure you have the correct sending unit for your gauge? I’d be looking to determine if the reading on the gauge is accurate. Are you sure coolant is circulating through the rad?

95°C is about the highest temp reading you should ever see.

Have you got a Tmeyer Hi-flo thermostat or equivalent ?

Tx for your respondes. Engine water not boiling, etc, the Thermo is stock and tested, brass plate is in.

I do not trust Borletti  and in combination with a new sender I got from Jäckel/Hamburg some time ago (he knew normally what he was doing)

So I am more on the trip to CALIBRATE die Borleti against the reality. So a Measure on a HOT running engine right at the exit for the sender would be for now all my desire. From there I can go backwards to find potential issue. As I Assume there is a miss match between gauge reading reality and the real temp. Someone with an infrared Temp meter could help to get reality.

As soon it gets a bit cooler  over here in old Germany I will run the car and get infrared temp meter readings so we can compare.

TX for helping.

Mat

I live in Arizona, so we do have some hot days here. The Veglia gauge mismatch with the Ford sending unit was always a problem. If you managed to find a sending unit that actually worked with the Veglia gauge, then that it great! There is nothing wrong with having a Cleveland engine run at 210 degrees F. With a 15 pound radiator cap, when you shut the engine off and it does not lift the cap, then you are fine.  Are your cooling fans in front of the radiator or behind the radiator? Fans mounted behind the radiator are much more effective than ones in front of the radiator. The laser pointed heat guns are great if you want to see what temperatures really are.   

thinking outside the box . . .

a grill / meat thermoter with probe hose clamped.

@jfb05177 posted:

thinking outside the box . . .

a grill / meat thermoter with probe hose clamped.

I have used that type of thermometer by taking the cap off of the discharge tank and placing into the coolant flow. It can certainly tell you how far off the Veglia gauge actually is.

You guys are top. Cooling fans are behind so good. After running hot when I in stopped the engine  in the garage  the cap did not pop ( I need to see the reading on the cap), AND the Fans started immediately. And the idea with the grill probe is top, as I have one and it provides remote reading per cell phone, so I can read "real" temp while driving!! Need to see how the clamp it .

Will take the 210F as ref point for  now. I got an infrared temp  meter so will get now measures at different spots.

Still if someone  has the time to get me ref temp C or F figures especially at the sender at the block that would be wonderful. That would also help a broader audience to verify engine temp is correct respective to calibrate  the Borleti

P.S.: unfort. I do not know the temp reading on the thermostat, would be an other ref point.

TX

Mat

Once you have the reference temperatures, or verify with an IR Temp Gun what actual temperature is at the sending unit on the block, you may want/need the Pantera Electronics Temperature Gauge Compensator.

https://www.pantera-electronic...cal%20components.htm

Check your cam chain. Cleveland cam chains stretch or wear quite fast due to big heavy valves & high rpms, which retards cam and ignition timing. That can increase engine temperature. I've seen new non-premium chains stretched to the danger point  in 20K miles.

Bosswrench  Tx

good point, I will as soon weather gets normal - now pouring rain after the heat- will go through full procedure TX , however car has now 1500 mile and all luxury new parts. Good to be reminded to just do a full check!!

Danke Mat

Garth Tx for hint...will consider..adjusting electronic might be the thing..