Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I'm also having windscreen issues.

My car had been leaking for some time when I bought it and this had caused serious rust issues in the drivers floor and sill areas. I've fixed all of this but knew that I would need to remove the windscreen to fix it once and for all. I managed to remove the four metal strips and then found that the screen wasn't tucked under the rubber very far on the pass side, and that the rubber gasket appeared cracked and badly perished in many areas.

I ended up cutting the gasket away and managed to remove the screen in one piece without it cracking. The screen is a 'Safevue' as seen in this little logo right in the centre of the screen down low.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Safeview_599
Given that the screen is okay, I need to locate the correct gasket to put it back in with. There seems to be a number of options:

- Mr FIAT on ebay sells a gasket complete with molded corners for $400. Indications from reading some of the Mangusta posts are that these are crap.

- Hall Pantera sell strips of gasket cut to length that you have to cut and fit at the corners to fit your car and screen. This seems like a difficult exercise, but if the extrusion is correct and covers the body right, then it might be reasonable. Cost is $95.00

- Wilkinson sell a molding which I presume is a four corner complete unit for $175.00. I have not had any negative or positive feedback on this product but if this fits properly with the safevue screen then it's a very good alternative.

- Cigognani in Italy also sells a complete 4 corner molding. Expensive at 240Euros ($330 AUD) but from research they may be the original suppliers of the factory molding.

Can anybody give me recent feedback on any of the above mentioned options?
quote:
Originally posted by OzGT5:

- Hall Pantera sell strips of gasket cut to length that you have to cut and fit at the corners to fit your car and screen. This seems like a difficult exercise, but if the extrusion is correct and covers the body right, then it might be reasonable. Cost is $95.00

Can anybody give me recent feedback on any of the above mentioned options?



One of my customers recently bought the Hall ,cut it yourself, version. Total crap!
My glass installer told me that he would be much better off leaving the 38 yr old rubber in than installing that! And he would have to charge twice as much to install it than if it was one piece like the original. The chanel where the glass goes was twice as wide as the glass is thick! I bought mine from Wilkinson and it fit perfectly.


Ron
I spoke to Kirk today and he thought that I may have had a Vericon screen in the car. If so, he suggested I throw it and start again, but that's a bit hard from where I live.

Hopefully you guys can give me some positive feedback on your experiences with Safevue screens and various gasket styles.
Problem is getting a screen to Australia Larry. Given the packaged size it will have to come by boat so it will be after Christmas before I can put the car back on the road. I'll miss half the Summer season.

I'm hoping that somebody has used the Wilkinson full one piece rubber gasket as I could have this in 10 days of so, but if it's crap, then I may have to research elsewhere.

I also need to check dimensions on a 'proper' fitting screen.

Now that mine is out of the car I was able to measure it across the back of the screen in a straight line without having to cater for the curve.

My Safevue screen (point to point) measures:

Bottom width: 58 3/4"
Top width: 43"
Sides: 23"
Centre bottom to top: 26 1/8"

If anyone has other screen dimensions could they please compare these. If mine is an okay size, then a decent rubber gasket and I'm away.
I recall a post previously that talked about windshield dimensions, but for the life of me can't find it.

More importantly maybe ask Wilkinson to measure his gasket and if it's a match for your sreen go for it.

You mention removing the trim, be aware that the windshield, rubber and trim should all go in together as a unit, not the trim separately afterward.

Julian
Getting the thin ss trim to insert properly into the dog-leg slots in the rubber, even using soapy water or WD-40 to lube it, is tricky at best. Having inserted the glass & rubber in our car first, I was never able to make the last corner of the last trim piece stay down. So after looking at it, I decided the bare rubber looked as good as blacked-out trim, was cheaper and far less trouble, so my trim pieces wound up on a shelf in the shop. If your trim has even the slightest bend, you're headed for trouble no matter what method of insertion you use.
And once the trim is in place in the gasket, raising the outside edge of the rubber to shoot silicone glass sealer underneath- to guarantee no water leaks- is even more difficult. If you do this, remember there are two completely different types of silicone/RTV. The common one will CAUSE corrosion, not prevent it because it exhudes acetic anhydride which reacts with atmospheric moisture to form acetic acid that attacks steel. Glass-sealing silicone exhudes acetaldehyde- an odorless, volatile solvent. So if you smell vinegar from your silicone, it's the wrong stuff!
Rob, I too have heard about recent Pantera windscreen rubbers that dont fit, made in China of course.

Dont even consider joining the corners yourself. I have done it on a Mangusta but it took all day just to make the fixture.
I suggest anyone that needs a windscreen rubber should get it form Roland Jaeckel in Germany. His rubbers fit perfectly and have the vulcanised corners not glued. He charges 190 euros + shipping to customers outside of Europe. roland@jaeckel-partner.de

The windscreen in my Pantera is not original and too small. With a correct size windscreen the rubber is pushed tightly against the body and they should not leak with no silicone at all.

When I installed my windscreen the first time I used the wrong silicone and it always leaked. The tube was marked "windscreen sealant" "will never dry or crack" This type of sealant does not dry like shiny rubber but more like tar that keeps creeping from under the rubber onto the glass and makes an ugly mess. After 6 years it totally dried out and fell out of the rubber in hard lumps. Never use this type!

The second time I installed the windscreen I used generic black silicone that drys shiny. I put it into the rubber and then put the rubber on the glass. I then installed the stainless trims into the rubber. Next I put the silicone into the outside bit of the rubber that seals on the steel pinch weld lip of the car.
This mean you cant use a rope to install it because the rope would pull all the silicon into the car. I found that after placing the windscreen in the aperture it is possible (with two people) to hook most of the bottom over the lip and then slowly pick the rest of the rubber a bit at a time with a large pick tool like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/picks-se...&hash=item1c1716e044
Dont know the seller.

I was able to pull quite a lot of the rubber over the lip with just my fingers. I did not remove my dash I simply covered the top in masking tape and them polythene. The reason I used polythene is because I cleaned up the oozing silicone with lacquer thinners.

My Pantera is now totally water proof, not one drop gets in. This makes me very happy every time I get caught in the rain.

It very important NOT to bang the windscreen with the palm of you hand or with a soft hammer in any way. This is totally unnecessary. It's also important to sit the bottom edge of the windscreen on something soft if you lean it against the wall.

When I bought my car the stainless trims had already been bent by someone pulling them out of the rubber with the windscreen still in the car. I did not know they where bent until after I had repainted them and installed them in the car. Like Jack says they never sat down properly in the corners because they where not the same shape as the glass. This pissed me off for years until the second time I installed the windscreen and I fixed them.

The only way to fix them is to mechanically shrink the edge on a shrinker. The only problem with this is there is a little 3mm (1/8") lip that holds it in the rubber. This lip would be crushed by the saws of the shrinker. I got over this by placing two pieces of 3mm thick steel on the trim so the jaws cant crush the lip. I left a gap for the metal to be shrunk into. It worked perfectly. I lay the trims on the edge of the glass and kept shrinking until they where the same profile.

I did not know there was a right and wrong silicone like Jack says. Mine did smell of vinegar! Next time I will use the stuff they bond windscreens in with.

The pic below shows my trim before I made it fit the glass.

Johnny

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMGP8084
Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×