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Many years ago I upgraded my power window motors. While doing this I replaced the cracked nylon arm rest attachments for the armrest screws. Hall offered (and still does) what I thought was a much improved design. It is a plate that you attach to the door. It uses a bolt instead of a screw. Seemed like an improvement .... But unfortunately the part that the bolt screws into is just pressed on to the plate.When you go to remove the bolt it will not come out. The nut attachment that is pressed on has broke free from the plate. The bolt will nut unscrew from the attachment. And with the door panel still in place there is no way to get at the attachment to hold it while you unscrew the bolt.The only solution was to carefully hacksaw off the bolt. I am now going back to the original still not great designed nylon & screw attachments.

Hall Pantera has made many many great improved parts for our cars but this is not one of them. Frowner

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It's just a steel nutcert. They are replaceable or very simple to replicate and replace.

Even bolts cross strip, i.e., wear out.

The simplest solution is often the best.

Nutcerts are often used for "blind bolt" installations on virtually everything.

I personally find the nutcert tool an indispensable item. I am on my third. I just wear them out.

All threaded fasteners need lubrication in assembly. The nutcerts because of the small bearing area are more susceptible to spinning and therefore really need just a drop of virtually any kind of oil in assembly. Anti seize compound should be used on something that may need to be disassembled in the future. That stuff never dries up.

They are a heck of a lot easier to do then welding a nut to a piece of plate steel.

If you think the nutcert sucks, wait 'till you try the original plastic plug.

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quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
It's just a steel nutcert. They are replaceable or very simple to replicate and replace.

Even bolts cross strip, i.e., wear out.

The simplest solution is often the best.

Nutcerts are often used for "blind bolt" installations on virtually everything.

I personally find the nutcert tool an indispensable item. I am on my third. I just wear them out.

All threaded fasteners need lubrication in assembly. The nutcerts because of the small bearing area are more susceptible to spinning and therefore really need just a drop of virtually any kind of oil in assembly. Anti seize compound should be used on something that may need to be disassembled in the future. That stuff never dries up.

They are a heck of a lot easier to do then welding a nut to a piece of plate steel.

If you think the nutcert sucks, wait 'till you try the original plastic plug.


Doug,

My first experience with a nutcert. With this application you are basically screwed (no pun intended!) when they break loose. If I had know they were prone to coming loose I would have had them tack welded to ensure they don't break free. And for $10 a piece I would have expected better from Hall.

As for the original nylon piece and screw yeah not great and why I replaced them with the Hall product. But at least if they break you can still get the arm rest off. Not the case when the nutcert fails.
True about "being screwed" if it breaks.

If you take a piece of 1/8" x 1" thick aluminum "bar stock", you can drill it a thread it with a tap.
Pop rivet it back on like your broken piece is.

That will be more reliable for you and almost as simple of a solution.

I did that on the trunk liner retainers rather than have the same issue occasionally like you have had happen.

That I did so I could switch to a retaining bolt (1/4" stainless button head screws) rather then the dzus fasteners.

It is almost the same plate you would be making for your armrest except for the thread type and size you pick.
I have been using a 2" fender washer with a 6mm nut tacked on with 3-1/8 holes drilled in the washer as a fix for 34 years without issue. Tried nut serve once in the washer but tack welds were not working so back to the trusted welded nut fix. Can't tell you now many many plastic screw tabs I've re-attached.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
True about "being screwed" if it breaks.

If you take a piece of 1/8" x 1" thick aluminum "bar stock", you can drill it a thread it with a tap.
Pop rivet it back on like your broken piece is.

That will be more reliable for you and almost as simple of a solution.

I did that on the trunk liner retainers rather than have the same issue occasionally like you have had happen.

That I did so I could switch to a retaining bolt (1/4" stainless button head screws) rather then the dzus fasteners.

It is almost the same plate you would be making for your armrest except for the thread type and size you pick.



Thanks to all for the excellent alternatives to the crappy OEM nylon holders. Without having a welder I went with Doug's suggestion. Only I went with steel vs. aluminum. The aluminum flat bar stock at Home Depot was not a true 1/8" and the steel was actually a little over 1/8 ". Just to be safe even applied some anti-seize. Pretty sure this is now a solid and permanent fix.

Jeff

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