What's a good used Fontana block worth?

quote:

any idea what it's worth?

Ask Bosswrench, Jack DeRyke.

He has one and should know.

Larry

Don't want to sound stupid, but could someone please enlighten me about this Fontana-block? Pros, cons, weight vs. steelblock and so on?

I'll inspect it for you as well Will make a nice foundation for someone. Wish I had some spare cash right now to build a stroker!

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I have an aluminum Fontana block,......has aluminum main caps (Cleveland mains)

Sure about that? Possible but rare.

quote:

any idea what it's worth?

They usually fetch $2500-3000 used depending upon condition. However, the Clevor Fontana is no longer available as the tooling was purchased from Joe and Windsorized. They were $4600 new and required comparable prep to other aftermarket blocks.

The Fontana block weighs in at 116 pounds versus 172 pounds for a standard bore 2-bolt main 351C block. Iron 9.2" or 9.5" deck SBF race blocks come in at around 205 lbs (per the Ford Motorsport catalog). With aluminum heads, waterpump, flywheel, and a mini-starter, it is possible to get the engine weight down to 400 lbs or so versus 550 lbs for an all-iron 351C.

They are a well engineered proven platform upon which big power can be built and sustained. They were a staple in world of outlaws sprint cars and alcohol engines that put down well over 700 hp. Like any aluminum block push rod engine, you need to be diligent about maintaining valve lash (in solid valve train engines) and be patient allowing the engine to come to temperature before romping.

Kelly

Here are some pictures. The block belonged to a guy in the Mid West who was very much into Panteras and was killed on a motor cycle accident about 10 years ago. His brother sold off a lot of Pantera parts he had. I think he also owned a Valleunga that was featured in a short PI article.

another pic

Never saw a set of the aluminum caps before though Joe told me they were available. Align boring/honing is always a little tricky when one side is AL and the other steel. Aluminum caps would help with that and they would definitely save you a few pounds but might wonder how well they hold fastener torque. Probably not much a concern for racers since they get torn down after every race. The steel caps are also beefy and splayed. Here's a pic.

Fontana blocks also require a unique front timing chain cover. They look like a Windsor cover but are different because Fontanas use Cleveland oil pans so the pan rail is different than an ordinary Windsor. There are several versions of the cover available; one that receives ordinary water pumps and the other that takes snout mounted pumps. If you have one, you'll want to offer it with the block if you decide to sell it. Like I said, Fontanas are nice piece. I own two 9.5 deck Fontanas. I sold Bosswrench my 9.2" deck Fontana block. I'm sure he'll be chiming in soon I'm sure.

Take care,
Kelly

More pics

P3

P4

p5

p6

p7

p8

p10

p11

p12

p13

Nice !!!....

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Originally posted by kenn:
I have an aluminum Fontana block, but the way the project has evolved I'd be better off with a Windsor style block. The block is:

100 over (fresh bore & hone)
9.2 deck
has aluminum main caps (Cleveland mains)
don't see any repairs
was inspected by Joe Fontana

any idea what it's worth?

What is the serial number on this block? I didn't know that they offered aluminum main caps.

I'll have to find the serial number. I suspect that an engine builder had the aluminum caps made.

When I talked to the guys at Fontana's shop about the aluminum main caps they had a mixed reaction. One said the bearing clearances would have to be a bit tighter to compensate for the greater expansion of aluminum, another thought they were better because the block and cap would expand about the same amount so the bearing seat would stay round. Both thought using a dry sump system would address any potential issues.

The number on the block looks like "HL012"

Ford Racing used to sell a dry-sumped block with either steel main caps or 7075-aluminum, for the reasons you mentioned. My 5.3-l hot-rod Buick V-8 has 7075 main caps that I made for it. Aluminum Buicks are known for expanding the block side of the main bearings more than the (stock) iron caps and the resulting egg-shaped bores leads to loss of oil pressure and crank failure. So done right, your Fontana caps might be an improvement. They're likely also about 8 lbs lighter than steel caps.

I've have talked to several folks and gotten estimates between $2K and $4K. I think it's worth between $2,500 and $3,500, the higher value to someone who specifically wants a Fontana block. I looked all over it as well as I could and don't see any damage or repairs. I would prefer to sell it to someone around LA who can inspect it and avoid shipping.

It's been bored and honed to 4.100 and is ready to assemble. As far as I know, it needs zero repair or machine work. the work was done by Phil at (I think) Performance machine in Pamona who has built other Fontana block motors for Panteras, and a lot of race motors.

In any event, it's going on eBay Friday night (June 25th), probably starting at $2,495, unless someone contacts me first.

I took fresh and better pictures of the motors guts and can send them to anyone interested.

Hmmm, somewhat tempting. Is it set up for dry sump or wet sump?

Julian

It looks like a passage between the oil pump mounting location and oil filter was filled with some kind of rubber like material that blocks the oil flow for dry sump oiling. I assume that can be cleaned out to make a wet sump motor.

You can sorta see it in the top left corner in this photo.

Ken,

I sent an email to your Yahoo account. I'm interested in the block. Dan