window binding and not the motor

It is not uncommon for our windows to face resistance at the upper part of their travel.

I believe it is basically a mismatch between the curvature of the glass and the curvature of the window tracks.

If you haven’t already, I would suggest you spray a silicone lubricant into the vertical window channels. I have seen some improvement using this approach.

do NOT use a petroleum-based lubricant such as WD-40

Larry

For me I found that it was the little metal piece between the main glass that rolls up and down and the triangle glass on the door. I took a piece of wood that I put in the window frame and gently bumped it up to space out the top of the metal a bit and the window moved a bit better. Ultimately I ended up unscrewing it at the top after you remove the rubber gasket and bumping it over significantly. I then slotted the screw hole and screwed it in place with the wood holding the aluminum in place.

My window works great now!

Thank you both I agree I think it is that metal piece and will see if i can find the right size wedge to make is slightly bigger

Instead of attempting to widen the metal channel, I suggest you first remove the felt channel. It is likely just held in place by friction or a small amount of adhesive.

if the wider channel created with the removal of the felt improves your window movement, then you are on the right track. If not, widening the metal channel will likely provide no improvement.

Larry

Another avenue is to undo the glass lower track from the actuator arm (one bolt) and manually move the glass up and down, if it doesn't bind then it's likely being forced against the curvature by the actuator, spacer washers between the actuator arm and glass track can help compensate.