1717 Engine

How's the Performance?

Dont know yet. Took it for a small spin and the endseals were leaking. That stinks too. Normally I use the cork endseals and have never had a problem. This time I tried the RTV in lieu of the cork. Well it leaked.
In the mile or so I drove it felt like I had lost a little of my bottom end torque( had a dual port on it) Just got my Fel Pro gaskets today so I will let you know.
Jeff

...Before You applied the RTV, did You clean All the Surfaces with 'Lacquer Thinner'? I use Permatex Ultra and put it on BOTH mating surfaces, let it get takky, 3-5 Mins. Then assemble...

I used acetone, put one bead about the size of my little finger on the block, I used Ultra-Black Permatex RTV.
Jeff

Can I make a suggestion ? You have a PCV valve at one opening in the valve cover and a CAP in the other ... my OPINION is you pushed the RTV out of the engine .... put a breather on the side where you have a cap ???

Ron

quote:

Can I make a suggestion ? You have a PCV valve at one opening in the valve cover and a CAP in the other ... my OPINION is you pushed the RTV out of the engine .... put a breather on the side where you have a cap ???

I have thought about that Ron, a breather cap it is!
Jeff

To get your stock engine screen on without removing any carb-spacers which I assume you've found useful (many aren't without dyno tuning), there are a couple of possibilities I can suggest. First, dump the t-bone air cleaner and use a round drop-base unit. This lowers the top of the air cleaner some 1-1/2". Most guys- including racers with 600+ bhp- have good results with a 3" high x 14" dia element, with a black top for reduced glare in the mirror. If you insist on the t-bone, remove both motor mounts and section up to 1" out of the vertical part of the upper mounts with a bandsaw and a TIG welder. You should also either section or Z-bend the steel ZF mount tabs to keep the complete powertrain more-or-less level. There are a few slight interferences to lowering the powertrain but nothing serious; 1" is about the max to keep the pan base from becoming the lowest point of the car. Needless to say, a removeable crossmember should be under the oil pan, which itself should be a fully baffled 10-quart type on any Pantera. That should keep you busy during the cold weather.
Using Ford/SVO high-port alloy heads & intake raises my carb top above the left & right engine covers without a spacer, so I'm in a worse situation than you are, engine-screen-wise, but I'm still trying....

Mr. Bosswrench, if you turned your ZF upside down, like what they do on GT40s, and then put in a dry sump oil system, could you lower your engine another inch????

Using Ford/SVO high-port alloy heads & intake raises my carb top above the left & right engine covers without a spacer, so I'm in a worse situation than you are, engine-screen-wise, but I'm still trying..

I;m milling My SVO intake down 1" and adding a spacer ..

Well I got the new gaskets on today, no leaks!!! Very nice sound coming from the exhaust. Very different then with the Offy Dual Port. I set the idle, and the mixture screws and she seems very responsive. It has been raining here since yesterday, and is suppose to keep raining turning to snow tonight. So it may be a few days before I can take her for a test drive.
I tried to locate some adapters to go from the twist type fittings to the push in type for the valve covers. So I can put a breather cap in the "capped" valve cover. But none were to be had here locally. I did find the pieces I need from several online catalogs. So I will get that done shortly.
Jeff

I used a simple twist on breather and had to make a flat o ring gasket ... I also had to put some screen in side because the valve cover need a baffle inside ...the push on ones I lost about 4 on RTE 87 New York ...

Ron