180 header question

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DUDE!!!

Those are some BIG blisters!!

Kinda look like louvers....


Seriously, this is an issue. Usually stainless heat shields are placed on the underside of the rear deck to reflect the heat and keep it off the paint

What is the clearance between the deck lid and the heat shield that you are running?

Also, how is the heat shield mounted?

Thanks

Is the shield you are using aluminum?

No problem at all with no shield. Ceramic coated
180's
Will

I do not have any problem and in one place the header passes within 1/4"of the painted engine bay. Had the headers coated at HPC, also have the stainless heat shield but really do not need it. The coating comes in many colors and shades including black.

I'll take some pictures of the deck lid, the deck lid started bubbling while the car was running. I took a temperature laser, the header tubes were around 540 degrees.

Has anyone else taken the temp of their header tubes?

180 headers WILL boil & blister paint (coated or not), if you drive the car hard. And given the awesome sound from 180s, how can one NOT drive them hard? A heat shield is simply good insurance for not ruining decklid paint. A simple aluminum or ss sheet mounted on short stand-offs (full width for both sides) worked best for us in the late '80s and I've seen nothing that innovates around this need.

Using an IR gun to check header pipe temps is impossible; the problem is hitting the EXACT same spot on each pipe, at the same distance from the pipe so the reading relates. Missing the spot by fractions of an inch or being a fraction of an inch closer or further away changes the reading by hundreds of degrees even on the same pipe. I gave up trying. Drilling a hole for a thermocouple or thermister in each pipe works for pro builders by eliminating the above variations from a hand-held IR gun. Its like trying to precision-machine metal using a hammer and chisel.

Use a combo of heat shield and carpeted lid.