1996 rebuilt Cleveland - never started?

You might also want to call the builder and see if they sonic tested the cylinder walls. The notes you posted shows the bores at .040 over...I recall many posts that if there is an casting shift even a .030 motor can have some issues. The Cowboy from Hell or Dan Jones can certainly comment on that better than I. I have an .030 motor and am getting the block sonic tested prior to re-assembly. I have also thought about doing a half fill of the block to strengthen the water jackets, but that isn't too good for cooling, so I think I will take my chances.

It was sonic tested. Even if something were
to happen, I only paid $1500 with clutch, balanced flywheel, and engine stand.
Parts are worth that plus more $$.
Hopefully no problems!

Here is the blueprint spec sheet #2. Ihad to figure out how to compress the file to post:

Good news(well at least if you want higher compression)....looks like you have the quenched heads....the blue printing specs show 63CC chamber size, that would be the 70-71 heads closed chamber head.

The casting numbers are on the bottom of the exhaust ports. There is a post about identifying head for a couple years ago. The specs on your cam are almost the same as mine and I have close chamber heads but the bore is stock so you should run more compression. What are you going to run for carburetor? and if I remember you have big bore headers with mind train exhaust? Did you ever pull the pan off your old motor to see what broke?

I believe I have a Holley 4150, 750 cfm with mechanical secondary. Hall big bore headers with Mind Train exhaust. The new engine has a Torquer 351C single plane intake installed.

Pan not pulled from original engine yet. I believe it is the wrist pin bearing that is shot.

FWIW, if someone finds a decent block with only a few thousanths of taper in the bores, be aware that you can have such a block HONED more-or-less straight, then use forged pistons and moly-coated rings in 4.000 size. This works just fine because -A- forged pistons run best with up to 0.005" of clearance, and -B- most of the bore wear is in fact not 'wear' but is gas erosion up near the top of each bore. This area is above the area the rings run on so its not required to perfectly straighten that part of the bores. It will not work with cast pistons- including hypereutectic pistons- that only require 0.0015 clearaance. Up to 0.005" can be honed away doing this, as long as you'll accept a little rattling for the first minute or so of running, until combustion heat expands the forged pistons to fit the bores. This works with already bored blocks, too- just as a freshen-up to salvage them.
Reliability? I had 0.004" honed away (not all top-bore 'blemishes' disappeared doing it) in 1991 for a set of 4.000 forged TRW pistons, and today the engine still does not smoke, uses maybe a quart of oil on a 1000-mile run to & from Las Vegas, and is noisy only at start-up. I tell everyone its the radical cam (actually, a mild hydraulic flat-tappet).
I have a 6" long piece of cylinder wall laying on my desk as a paperweight from an 0.030"-over block that failed at 150 mph. The thinnest wall area on that chunk is 0.070" thick! Chevy engine builders get nervous when cylinder wall thicknesses fall below 0.200"- something virtually no 351C ever had. So maximize the cylinder wall thickness you have by only honing- 351-C blocks are getting scarce!

What's going on with the engine swap?
Tim

I decided to tear down the new engine, replace all the seals and re-lube everything. For the amount of time and money that it will take/cost, I believe it is good insurance.
Need to purchase a workshop manual for the 351C....is one workshop manual better than another?