Hi Team,
still having the original window motors working but sucking 20 Amps! So want to convert to Ford Aerostar Motors.
I did study the tech-notes decently. I checked the Germany market for replacement motors, could find only 3 bold motors! Whereas 4 bold motors are recommended.

Question: If I do the ONE WAY CONVERSION it looks as if I have more options to fix the Motor on the motor regulator.
WOULD THEN A 3 Bold motor work?

I would do this documented modification to the motor regulator.





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Original Post
Window Motor Conversion – Taurus
Aerostar window motor conversion issues?

SOBill at aol.com
Thu Feb 2 2006


I could not find the 4 hole motors.

I had the guy that supplies AutoZone, Kragens, et al search through all the boxes in his warehouse in
New Jersey. He was extremely helpful, but he couldn't find a single four hole motor.

I used 3 hole Taurus motors.

Because of the Taurus gearbox/motor mounting vis a vis the Pantera lift mechanism, Taurus driver side
window motors (Ford PN E6DF-14A365-AB) labeled "LF" are used on the Pantera passenger side. I
used a 1990 Taurus motor ~$15.

Taurus passenger side window motors (Ford PN E6DF-14A366-AB) labeled "RF" are used on the
Pantera driver side I used a 1990 Taurus motor ~$15
You can buy new or rebuilt Taurus motors on line.

If you go to a salvage yard, take a hammer and a
chisel (or a battery powered grinder) because the Taurus motors are mounted with rivets.

The Taurus motors run the window 2x as fast (2 seconds up or down) on 1/2 current (4 vice 8 amps).

All you need is a hacksaw, a grinder, a drill, and some beer.

SOBill Taylor

I bought the Ford Aerostar window motors a couple of years ago and decided to install them this weekend. Unfortunately I didn't check them before storing them to see if they were 3 or 4 bolts. So rather then try to find the 4 bolt motor and wasting the $90 I paid for these things I thought I'd come up with a work around. I used the template in http://www.panteraplace.com/page164.htm and then made a backing plate to create an anchor point for bolt #2. I realized I could place the #2 bolt wherever I liked as long as it didn't interfere with the ratchet plate, the teeth on the ratchet plate or that little indented nibble that's on the underside of the ratchet plate and the body of the assembly. I tapped a hole, inserted the bolt with a collar so the plate didn't flex when the motor was being used, put some blue Loctite on it and tested about 20 times. It seemed to work well.

3 Bolt Work Around



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All I did was remove 4 screws that secured the motor backing plate. Got an index card and made a template. Got some 16 gauge flat stock. Cut the template out, drilled the holes and assembled it.  I lubed the runners and now they work like magic.

* The trick to getting the regulator assembly in and out of the door is to have the window in the down position but not all the way completely down. Stop the motor just when the arm is 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the stopper. It pretty much just slips in them.

* Another trick is not to screw the two nut into the glass tightly at first. Let the window window go up and down so the motion sets the glass position for you and then tighten the nuts up.

I think working on window regulators is the most frustrating actively you came possibly undertake in life. So if I can help anyone make this less a burdensome process than needs be, I can say I have fulfilled my life's destiny.




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Nice work, I still have not done the "20 amps" replacements, as car is still waiting due to very bad weather in old G land.

Have a 3 bold motor for the pas.  side, still looking for driver side. Hard to find over here in Germany, as sparse "junk yards with US parts.


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