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quote:
Originally posted by Aus Ford:
Press in iron guides could be used on the exhaust.

I would suggest removal of the cracked metal is paramount, a crack in the exhaust port could run anywhere and do who knows what damage eventually.


Aluminum heads use bronze guides on both intake and exhaust. What is the problem with that?

The remainder of the cast iron guide in the ports can be machined out and the bronze guide stands alone as the complete guide.

As long as the crack does not continue into the port itself and create a coolant leak, that's how you fix these heads. The plus side is you get increased air flow around the area that was formally occupied by the cast iron guide support.

Go look at some aluminum heads. See how they changed the ports and how the bronze guide was installed.


Use the teflon "PC" type seals. The guide I showed you "locks" them on so that they won't pop off. That's what that series of fine grooves is for.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...VH9LSK_qgaAnav8P8HAQ

Engnbldr got back to me and said that he permitted his stock to run out and not replace them.

You are going to have to get the guides from one of the aluminum head manufacturers like TFS or Edelbrock. They are the same guides as far as I know.

I paid $4 per guide. I only have one set of each left for me, so I can't sell you any.
Pantera doug, can you show me your guides ?

+ some measurements ?

I will take them if they can fit, or the can be used to create a model if I do not find the remaining 14 ones.


FYI the stock valves were FORD, I think they were change as they have only little seat wear, and we can see on them how rough the machining was. I took the EPN ones, the are much more smooth and I did a quick polish of the steam with belgom they are even more smooth, there's a big triboligy equation here.


Jérémie
quote:
Originally posted by Jérémie:
Pantera doug, can you show me your guides ?

+ some measurements ?

I will take them if they can fit, or the can be used to create a model if I do not find the remaining 14 ones.


FYI the stock valves were FORD, I think they were change as they have only little seat wear, and we can see on them how rough the machining was. I took the EPN ones, the are much more smooth and I did a quick polish of the steam with belgom they are even more smooth, there's a big triboligy equation here.


Jérémie


The pictures I posted are them. Well almost. The small block guides are the same external dimensions but for 11/32" valve stems.

I don't have any to give or sell you. I only have one set of each and those are for me.



My heads are all installed and I have no pictures of them or the ports to show.

Very little of my projects are documented like everyone now does with digital cameras. I never thought anyone else would be interested in seeing the results.

The shaft is .502" od. The od of the shoulder is .530". 2.381" is the overall length. The length that presses into the head is 1.943". The tip that projects into the spring is .437".

The total length you are supposed to trim after they are installed in the head.

They are designed for a press fit from the top. You hone the head to .499", then press them in. Probably .500" is ok too.

Then after they are installed you run an 11/32" reamer through them to make sure the hole is round.

Then just assemble your valve train to them.


I am using the cut back stem EPN stainless valves also. They are high quality and sometimes repackaged as Faria.

Faria doesn't make anything anymore. They repackage existing valves that meet their quality expectations.

They are a little on the heavy side but there isn't much alternative to that except a titanium valve.

I'm not sure that is adviseable to use since the valve stems on those will tend to wear out fast unless you use the teflon coated ones?

With those you need to worry about where the teflon is going to wind up?
He told me yesterday he has no more and permitted his stock to run out.

He is in the state of Washington and is on Pacific Coast Time.

The Edelbrock and TFS guides look the same. Probably there are other aluminum heads that use the same.

I don't know where the manufacturer of the guides is. Israel and Argentina are two of the possibilities.

These parts now get purchased in bulk from wholesale manufactures worldwide.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Probably. Buono e morti. Good and dead. Wink

You understand English better than some of those who have it as their primary language. Why apologize?

It is I who should apologize to you for not being explicit enough.

I do try. Everyone knows that I am very trying? Big Grin


Ok that's good if my english is not totally weird lol … Smiler

Your guy has answer to me, he seems very nice, that's a pity that he does not do this anymore, he gave me some phone numbers.

That's cool but … writing some post on the internet is one thing, speaking on the phone is another one !! lol
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

Use the teflon "PC" type seals. The guide I showed you "locks" them on so that they won't pop off. That's what that series of fine grooves is for.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...VH9LSK_qgaAnav8P8HAQ

Great educational thread! Smiler
Just a comment re these seals you are linking to. These are viton seals, and need very precise diameter to install. The teflon ones has a spring to hold them tight and are more forgiving.

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