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Looks like good solid metal to me, Nothing scary. I would say your money ahead of others that have done restorations. I see the factor bracing on the rear frame assembly that was done on the early cars by recall, unless you put it there. does your car have the aluminum tank covered in fiberglass too.
Smiler Thanks - I was lucky on the rust issue.. None so far. Yes the factory recall added the bracing. I will clean that up and fab some stainless 304 rail covers. The tank is clean and covered in glass as well as the alum heat shield.


quote:
Originally posted by Mark M:
Looks like good solid metal to me, Nothing scary. I would say your money ahead of others that have done restorations. I see the factor bracing on the rear frame assembly that was done on the early cars by recall, unless you put it there. does your car have the aluminum tank covered in fiberglass too.
SmilerGarth - For sure the needle scaler works better than a heat gun. Works best when undercoating is cold. Makes it brittle. The needle scaler pneumatic ( works best with 4 SCFM constant at about 70 lbs regulated. It vibrates about 3000 times/sec and basically chips the undercoating away (Clean) as you saw in the pictures. I've tried the heat gun approach and all it does is make a "FRIGGIN MESS".

Greg


quote:
Originally posted by garth66:
Looks great RT66! How do you use the needle scaler to remove undercoating? I'm planning to start stripping undercoating off my car in the next 2 weeks and was planning to use heat, but if there's an easier way I'd like to know.

Thanks!
Garth
Thanks - Ill Post pics of the motor soon.
351c - 408 Stroker - 304HR Comp Cam, Roller Lifters, Roller Rockers, Manley Severe duty SS valves, BBC Springs, SBC 6" H-Beam Rods, KB Forged Dish Pistons (Floating) Billet Crank, Aviaid 10 qt pan, Fluid damper - Centerforce Flywheel/Clutch etc. BG Demon Carb, MSD Digital Ignition


quote:
Originally posted by Cuvee:
OK...I'll bite... What is a needle scaler? Oh, and great work! Keep the photos coming.

Good Luck
Curt
Greg, where did you get the needle scaler? I've never seen one. Wish I'd seen this picture a few months ago when I felt like I was married to the heat gun, putty knife and wire wheel. Wire wheel is really fast but is probably the dirties job and you have to use a dust mask. I'm still working on the frame rails. (Our wives are right, we have lost it)

What do you have planned for refinishing the bare metal? I was thinking of doing a solvent wash to remove the remaining residue and leaving the paint that was under the factory undercoat for more protection and considered using truck bed liner spray...not sure if I will like that look or should just do a two part paint with hardener. The paint will look better but will chip, scratch etc.

Nevermind, I just googled needle scaler and northern tool has them for $39!...I'm ordering one today.
Last edited by tomsealbeach
Tom,

I was planing on using aircraft primers, polyurethane topcoats. Check out "www.aircraftspruce.com" and look at the PTI and anza products.

Greg

quote:
Originally posted by Tom@Seal Beach:
Greg, where did you get the needle scaler? I've never seen one. Wish I'd seen this picture a few months ago when I felt like I was married to the heat gun, putty knife and wire wheel. Wire wheel is really fast but is probably the dirties job and you have to use a dust mask. I'm still working on the frame rails. (Our wives are right, we have lost it)

What do you have planned for refinishing the bare metal? I was thinking of doing a solvent wash to remove the remaining residue and leaving the paint that was under the factory undercoat for more protection and considered using truck bed liner spray...not sure if I will like that look or should just do a two part paint with hardener. The paint will look better but will chip, scratch etc.

Nevermind, I just googled needle scaler and northern tool has them for $39!...I'm ordering one today.

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