Assistance with seat problem..

If you still have the original rollers they may be flat spotted and bound up. Have you tried lubricating the tracks? I don't suppose you can see anything obvious? As a last resort, the ends of the track are crimped over to limit travel. If you straighten the crimp you may be able to disengage the upper track from the lower track if the seat is able to be moved far enough forward.

Thanks, I can't see anything, not sure that it's even possible to see under the seat. Haven't tried lubing, feels like it's locked up solid..

Still nothing. Not sure it would be possible to straighten the crimp while the seats are in the car. I loosened the rear bolts attaching the bases to the floor in hopes that lifting the back of the seat would help, nothing. Tried taping the front tracks with a hammer and got zero movement. Tried lifting the seat while trying to move it, nothing. I can see the pawl of the lever move away from the track when the level is pushed. Perhaps a bolt that holds the upper tract to the seat came loose and has wedged between the track halves.

Are new tracks available? The only thing I can think of is the remove the rear bolts, then from under the car center drill the front bolts and use an Easy Out to back the bolts up into the car, but not sure there's enoungh room inside the track to get the bolts to clear the floor. Then replace the tracks. Suggestions? thanks

Before you turn for the tools of destruction, let me take a look at mine. Maybe I can come up with something.

I had the exact same problem two weeks ago. Here's the solution. Use a screwdriver for leverage and work the seat back on the track, approximately 1/8 - 1/4 inch at a time. Insert the screw driver into the outside track and work it around until you can catch an edge. Once you have moved it back approx. 2" you can access the two bolts with an socket headed, long reach allen wrench with "rounded" tips. This will allow you to come in at an angle. Once the seat is removed, take the tracks off, clean and lube. You may have to replace the rollers if the are flat spotted or damaged. Upon reassembly the seat will slide fairly easy out of the car but much harder when reinstalled. This is because the rails tweak/twist when bolted back down on the floor. Even though my tracks are stiff, they are workable. If you need any other help, let me know or call me at 813-857-4528. Regards, Mike

Thanks, was your problem with the driver's or passenger's seat? If passenger, did you work with the tunnel side or door side? Mine is the passenger seat, and I can get a bit of movement on the door side, but the tunnel side seems locked solid. Taping with a small hammer yields no motion, and I don't see how it's possible to work a screwdriver in there. Am I doing something wrong?

thanks
John

John,
Check to be sure your spring release is still hooked up under the seat as well, it pulls the release pins on the bottom of the seat to allow the seat to move.

Steve

Thanks, maybe that's it. Looking under the front of the seat, when I move the lever I can see an arm move away from the track, but there are 2? One in front and one in the back same side? Anyone have a drawing of the assembly so I can better understand what to look for. Sure is tough to see anything under there. Thanks. John

Johnk, On my 71, the seat track has the locking track near the tunnel. The track on the door side will slide without moving the handle. The only bolt you have to get out would be the front inside.....provided you have the inside rear already out. The lever has a simple one latch "arm" that fits into the slots on that track only. The point I am trying to make is the track near the door does nothing but slide. Once you have the inside track loose you should me able to slide it back enough to get to the bolt nearst the door. If you have allen head bolts holding your track, you may be able to cut or grind a allen wrench to be very short. Leave just enough sticking out of the head and work it with an open end wrench the same size as the allen. The seat will slide better if you have the spacers in. I took mine out to lower the driving position.

Thanks, yes, my track is the same, just a single lever. And i understand your comment about no lock on the door side, I just need to contend with (hopefully) a single bolt. It's not going to be fun. I guess I should by a set of replacement rollers so I can yank the seat and fix it without waiting.. Thanks again.

The original seat support rollers are rubber covered and they flatten out and act as if they are glued between the tracks.

If they are as bad as mine were, you are going to have to get a bar on the top track and with a hammer pound the top track back to where you can get to the bolt with wrench.If you're lucky you will find a socket head cap screw and you will able to use an allen wrench as mentioned above.
The roller dimensions are approx.15/16" dia.X 9/16" wide. You can make them yourself out of steel or brass round stock

Thank you..

You mean (fron the front of the track) just physically muscle the upper and lower track apart on that side alowing access with an allen wrench?

Progress, I think...

Inserted a long screwdriver from the front between the 2 tracks to seperate them, then I got the seat to move about 1/2" before it ran into the parking brake housing and stopped. HUH? It's now stopped by the housing. Perhaps in a former life the tracks were rebolted to the seat resulting in the seat being much closer to the console. Can anyone else push their passenger seat back without it contacting the brake?

John,
I just got home and checked my passanger seat. A little stiff as well. First off the seat tracks run about $300 so don't pry them apart. Johneye wanted you to hammer them back not seperate the tracks by prying them apart.
I assume you shot some WD40 on the tracks first. If they are the original seats the backrest of the seat should slide by the E brake caseing with about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance and go back to about 3" from the front of the E brake housing. Did you try sitting in the seat and let your butt try to move the seat forward first all the way? If your sitting outside the car it may not allow for enough umph to move it. Since your getting some movement you can start to work it back and forth to loosen things up. Give me a call at 703.830.5404. I am local right?? )

Steve

I'll try to get a picture of the wheels that came out of my 71' and it will give you an idea of what you are up against. They are going to be flat and very sticky.

Pooky was right,just pound the top track back,not apart. Be careful,the metal is pretty soft.

The brake should not interfere.

Here is what the rubber covered rollers turn into.
Remember you have four of them resisting your efforts to move the seat.

No pic?

Sorry for the delay in posting a picture.