Axle ID

I pulled the axles this weekend. Everything felt tight but there were some bad bearings in there. The axle measures a hair big for the 6208--6308 bearings. @ .001 Is it a must to replace the nut ?

Need more info.

Is it hollow? Is the outside portion of the hole smooth or a rough casting?

Larry

Looks to be aftermarket left hand axle, by the 'L' stamped in the end. I understood OEM's were stamped 'S' or 'D' for 'Sinistra' or 'Destra' (Italian left or right).

The axle nut is a cinch nut, which is designed to be a single use item.

Also renew that chamfered thrust washer on the axle. The axles were rebuilt on one of my cars and the thrust washers not replaced; I had to rebuild them again within a couple thousand miles.

Larry,

Here is a pic of the end. Its not hollow. It is all smooth. These were in the car when I bought it. Im just wondering what they are/who sold them/ are they good quality ? Then, should I re-use them ?

I kinda figured the nuts should be replaced, but the thrust washer ? What goes wrong with that ?

Thanks, Mike

Okay, definite after market, not stock.

Highly suspect they are the forged/machined pieces from Hal - sold by most of the vendors.

Nothing wrong with them.

I'll let Julian take the thrust washer question....

Larry

Solid rear axles are almost always made of 4130 billet or in the case of recent 'factory' axles- Euro equivalent EV-30 forged steel. They are both much stronger than OEM axles for '71-77 cars in the flange area, and are a tougher grade of steel. The shaft diameter is 1.5750" and yes- the last decimal matters. They are set for a 0.0005-0.0010" interference fit on std ball bearings with a bore of 1.5746-1.4748"; a hydraulic press and anti-sieze should be used when reassembling. Check the front bearing plate for distortion- heavy pressing will distort it into a cone, which then affects tightness all the way thru the assembly. If distorted, pound flat or replace. There are three different nuts: a crown shape locking type, a round nut and a round nut split 1/3 of the way around. The first two are reuseable as long as not mauled; the last distorts under torque and causes lots of drag on the threads if re-used. The drag can lower actual torque to the point that the assembly will actually be loose at 'factory' tightness. Use AT LEAST 400 ft-lbs of torque with oil on the threads. Please do not use Lock-tite; the next guy to remove it will have to wreck the nut!