banging noise

I'd start with checking whether the right type of thermostat is in place, as well as the restrictor plate underneath the thermostat.

I had none of the above, and once fixed (right thermostat and restrictor plate installed), that made quite a difference...

It sounds like the bearing in the water pump is self destructing to me. There usually is little or no warning.

The bearing just dies. Sometimes it breaks the seal and the water leaks, sometimes it doesn't.

You need to take the water pump belt off and check for play in the pump shaft by hand to find this sometimes.

Hey Kid, witch partes are the right ones and where did You find them, Panteradoug, I will check into that, thanks guys

I bought a couple of thermostats on one of my US trips. The restrictor plate I got from Marlin Jack here on the forum.

Can't recall the brand of the thermostat, but a forum search should clear that out for you.





If you are unable to find the thermostat locally, I still got a brand-new spare one

Thermostat and water pump info here:
http://www.banzairunnerpantera...dates_thermostat.htm

Hello guys , an update on the noise. Turns out the dis pin has broke, although I put in a bigger pin. Mayby a hard turning oil pump or what I dont now. Did 2000 km on the bronze gear and half is already gone. Now looking inside for damage

Urbain

Some more info, I did put in slick 50 to improve on compression and mayby the drilled hole was not completly strait. There is 1 very slightley bend valve pushrod. Going to take of the heads now

#1154

Sorry to hear your problems. A bronze gear is only needed with a billet steel camshaft.

It seems that every time I hear of a distributor drive pin failure, there was some kind of a "rebuild" involved?

The gears definitely need to be double pinned.

A lot of these replacement pins are coming out of $.99 roll pin assortments with absolutely no control of the quality of the pins.

Also because of the additional load on the drive pins as a result of thicker engine oil viscosity, I'm not a believer in it.

The slick 50 thickened your oil. In the future, don't bother. Run a 10-40 full synthetic like Mobil1. I just don't see where there is a need for 20-50 in this engine any more. Things have changed since 1970.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

The gears definitely need to be double pinned.

Use of the "heavy duty" oil pump drive shaft is what leads to the shearing of the distributor gear roll pin. There is no reason to use that shaft. If people would use the standard oil pump drive shaft the roll pin will not shear.

Show me one engine, ONE, having the oem oil pump drive shaft, in which the roll pin has ever sheared, in which the driver has been stranded somewhere because the roll pin sheared.

My advice is not to double pin the gear, my advice is to install an standard oil pump drive shaft.

-G

quote:

Originally posted by Cowboy from Hell:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

The gears definitely need to be double pinned.

Use of the "heavy duty" oil pump drive shaft is what leads to the shearing of the distributor gear roll pin. There is no reason to use that shaft. If people would use the standard oil pump drive shaft the roll pin will not shear.

Show me one engine, ONE, having the oem oil pump drive shaft, in which the roll pin has ever sheared, in which the driver has been stranded somewhere because the roll pin sheared.

My advice is not to double pin the gear, my advice is to install an standard oil pump drive shaft.

-G

This is just a matter of opinion. No one is right and no one is wrong.

There is a fusible link in the oiling system.

Some say it should be the oil pump drive. Some say the pins.

I feel that if the oil drive is twisting that much under load, then there is double the shear put on the pins because of the snap back.

When the shaft twists and snaps back, you are shock loading the back side of the pins.

Difficult to show the pins snapped if the shaft already has twisted itself into a licorice stick?

Not disagreeing necessarily GP. Just saying there is no documentation one way or the other.

I personally have not seen this issue with the 289-351w, or the Ford FE's. Just the Cleveland.

It always seems that the distributor was just "recently rebuilt".

I'm running the Ford Motorsport 341-A racing distributor and the molly shaft. The distributor has not been touched.

I've got a spare Motorsport distributor if anyone wants one.

Hello guys, just an update on what caused the problems. My thermostat was not working, dropt it a few times in hot water and opend mostley just 1 mm. Then I found out there where 3 roller rockers witch where locked and 1 pushrod was a little bend, I think that caused the sheerpin to snap. Now waiting on spare parts, thanks for the help,greetings Urbain

#1154

urbain, you must be to brutal with your cat

No, I dont think so , she has just to much attitude

easy to blame another , go find a doctor to inspect your heavy foot