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You will be getting other responses soon I bet. This is a 'long' topic to discuss.
First confirm the problem:
Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 (O'clock). Shake, does it move ? (Not the tire
flexing).
Then the bearing is a likely cause.
Grab the wheel at 9 and 3, shake. If it moves it may be the "upright's" lower shaft bushing.

If it is a bad bearing, and the wheel moves, you will likely need a new axel (USD$350).
Stock axel was soft metal, and is easily damaged if the bearing had some time to wear.

Special tools ? YES. Axel nut is unique to each side. Right-hand thread, and left-hand
thread. (Axel is marked "S" = Sinestra (left) and "D" = Destra (right)).
A special USE-ONCE nut was stock, and torque is at least 400ft pounds ! So a special socket and a long (1.25+ meter) wrench is necessary.

Many owners have machined the upright to take tapered roller bearings versus ball bearings.
So figure out what you have before ordering parts !

I have images of this task, going into an article soon. If they help I can send a copy of some of them.

With the right tools, PCNC did the job (one axel) in about 2.5 hours or less.

Chuck Melton
First, you need the special axle nut socket and a long reaction bar to bolt onto the stub axle, and a wrench capable of at least 300 ft-lbs with you pulling on it, just to untighten the nut. Pray the previous owner didn't Lock-tite the nut! You'll have to release the upper tapered ball joint, and remove the lower pivot shaft from the bottom. If there is any corrosion inside the lower pivot area, the shaft WILL not come out, so I'd try this first. To disassemble if its frozen, you'll have to cut the lower shaft with an abrasive parting wheel or hacksaw, in two places, to remove the lower part of the carrier. This happens often enough that Hall Pantera offers a complete repair kit for the cut up parts...You also need a hydraulic press of at least 10 ton capacity, and a receiver that supports the small bevelled outside edge of the brake rotor rather than trying to use the rotor surface to take the press force. It is possible to break a rotor in half without the proper support. Finally, you need enough strength left to remove the whole 60+ lb rear upright assembly and drag it to your workbench. R & R will require new inner & outer bearings, plus a probable new stub axle or facilities to weld & remachine your old axle. Figure on blowing a whole weekend on this if you've never seen it done before.
OK. Try not to heat the halfshaft bolts too much- the best Locktite softens at 150-250 degrees, so dull-red-heat is too much. If you feel the bolts have been overstressed, the proper SAE replacements are available thru the usual Pantera parts vendors, or thru Aircraft Spruce in So-Cal, a kit-airplane shop.
quote:
Originally posted by Kevin Perry:
Boss,
The previous owner didn't lock tite the axle nut on my car, but instead applied lock tite to the half shaft bolts! I've tried to remove these nuts with no luck! Any suggestions? Heat, maybe?



Try with a pneumatic hammer , it worked with me..
I had no trouble removing the special nuts too !! I just used a screwdriver and a hammer , that was enough !! It wasn't loctited or blocked with 400ft/pd otherwise it wouldn't move with a screwdriver and a simple hammer !! The car has only 10'000 miles but that's maybe why the bearing is already dead !!
Where can I buy the tool needed to remove the 2 nuts ?
I'll keep you infomed
Thanks for every answers
Thierry
The $85 internal-spanner type socket to remove a tightened axle nut is available from all the Pantera vendors, and lots of Pantera owners have them to loan to local guys. But it's best if you get your own.... you'll soon be needing it again. The left axle nut is left-hand thread and the rt one is rt-hand thread, if its not been messed with by previous owners.
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