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have a 72, hard to start when cold but fires first try when warm. put new wires plugs, 650 dbl pump quick fuel carb. i have been trying different choke settings but no noticeable difference. pulled a plug, a little black but not flooded. checked for spark and it seems ok. gas is shooting out of squirter under choke plate, so have fuel and spark. crank over and over but nothing. give a few pumps and it gives a cough after a few tries, then it either starts sometimes or just keep cranking till battery then choke is fully open. could it not be getting enough spark? has proform electronic ignition. thought might be ign switch but when warm it fires first try so has me stumped. is there a pantera glitch when cold starting or is it just choke adj. car should start even without choke though, its in my semi warm shop. any help is greatly appreciated. its hard to find mechanics who will take care when working on panteras( scratching my flared fenders) so would love to figure out myself
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Sounds like a choke issue.

I have a Holley on the car. I converted it to an electronic choke. I found that the universal Holley choke thermostat opened way to fast for this engine and the car would start immediately but stall within a minute or so.

Through experimentation I found that the choke thermostat used on the last 4v carburetored 84 or 85 Mustang GT with the 302 works really well. It alters the rate at which the choke opens (opens slower) and therefore kept the car from stalling.

You can get them across the counter in a Standard brand and they aren't expensive. About $28 as I recall.

You will need to alter the mount to the carb, "a little" since the collar that holds it to the carb grounds the thermostat directly to the carb, so this isn't a complete simple bolt on, but it isn't difficult.

Other then that, you could try Pantera Electronics Engine Controller, which lets you alter the rate at which YOUR choke opens, provided it is electronic, that is.

Best...Happy New Year to all. See you next year?
...Choke My A**!!!

If You Have Spark and You Have Fuel...That Engine should be Fireing Over!! That leaves something 'Mechanical', such as Poor Compression or Bad Timing.

Your plugs are Black, that would indicate to Me, Weak Spark! Perhaps Wrong Plugs or Wrong Gap; Or Both.

You have Fuel, Have You been squirting gas down the Venturies until You Flooded the Carb?

You say, You DO Have spark? Did You check it AT The PLUG? This will indicate Problems in the Rotor and Distributer CAP! What about the Plug Wires?

How Old is the Battery?? Over 4 Years and it may Not Take a Charge or, Most Important; HOLD a Charge and then Deliver Full Amperage ON-DEMAND!
Next Check the Battery Voltage at the + COIL, WHILE Cranking! If it Drops Below 8.8 Volts while Cranking, that's a Problem!
A new Battery may be Your Fix. If You Do go shopping for a Battery, I DO NOT Recommend a 'DRY-Cell'!! Go for the 'Heaviest' Lead-Acid Battery You can afford! The Largest Battery that will Fit, With CCA of, at Least, 800 or More!!

Could Be You have a 'Weak' Coil, Temperature Related! Hardest to find is the 'Intermittent' Fault. Check the Coil for Internal Grounding/Shorts and for Ohms Resistance. Would Not be the First Time, the 'Electronic Modual' has Failed!

When You check for Spark at the Plug, the Spark should be More than just a Arc! It should show up as a 'Blue Flame'!!

Last...STOP Cranking until the Battery is Dead!!
You'll just burn-out the Starter Motor! The Starter gets Hot, The Resistance Goes Up-Exponentially, the Starter DRAWS More Current...Less Current to the Coil! Weak Spark, At Best!!

If the Engine Does Not Fire Right Up! It is Trying to Tell You Something!!
Stop Screwing with the Choke!!! When Cold, the Choke Plate should be OPEN a Gap of 1/8 Inch!! NO More, NO Less!
When warmed the Plate should be Fully Straight-Up!

Now Get To Work!!

And don't let those Monkeys get anywhere near Your Pantera!! NO Belt Buckles, Zippers, or Levies with Copper Rivets!!!...
Last edited by marlinjack
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