Coolant System

Given I have yet to drive a Pantera, the ONE area I have been firm with rebuild shop is the "continues vent" arrangement.   converting the overflow tank to the pressurized deaerator.   the two continues vents being the sealed swirl tank and the upper turn tank of the radiator.  the deareator return being the original heater's with heater core return going to deareator.

the other coolant improvements has been a high "pressure" water pump with overdrive pulley.   (and the original design thermostat)

Just my Opinon

Dan, does your block use a 351C or 351W waterpump? I have a Fontana block and it uses a 351W waterpump. The best mechanical waterpump I could find was a Stewart Stage 4 but since then Meziere has come out with an excellent one that should be considered. I also use a Stewart electric booster pump close to the outlet of the radiator. Does your block have a thermostat housing? My Fontana block does not, so I use a remote  bypass thermostat, mounted up by the inlet of the radiator. The system has full flow during warmup but bypasses the radiator until the thermostat opens. Naturally, I have incorporated George’s self bleeding mods and rad fans controlled by PWM. With an 8-10 lb rad cap, even in 100° stop and go traffic, I’ve never seen a temp higher than 189°, as measured by my Holley ECU, so I know it’s accurate.

David.

it's a 351c casting. I'm not sure exactly how complete the engine will be, not sure if they provide a water pump or recommend one.

I have the Holley Sniper Stealth that triggers the fans

having the olde 383 stroker rebuilt and will install it while I wait on the 427 so I will take a look at those water pumps.

what about the swirl tank mods I see on here, any insight?

Dan

Dan,

The swirl tank mods are the same thing that I referred to as the self-bleeding mods. They are well worth doing. If you want PWM fan control, you'll need a PWM module but your Holley ECU should be able to control it. Mine does. If you go this route, the fans won't switch on and off, they will speed up and slow down, proportionate to coolant temp. It just makes the fans quieter and less obtrusive. Saves on fan wear and tear and keeps coolant temps better regulated too. The PWM module I used (pic below) is from a 2006 to 2009 Corvette and various Fords from the same years.

Most modern automobiles use PWM to control cooling fans. It tends to keep coolant at a more even temp than fan switches ever could. In the case of my Pantera, the coolant temp behaves like the coolant temp in a modern car. It warms up to about 186 degrees then stays there, rock steady. No more rising and falling. It just sits at 186 degrees (on my EFI ECU's reading). It might drop to 185 or rise to 187 for a few seconds but that's it. On my Veglia gauge, the needle just sits in the same place. That's the benefit of PWM.

Pantera Electronics Radiator Fan Controller also uses PWM but I'm not sure if it would interface with your Holley ECU. Probably not but then again, it really doesn't need to!

https://www.pantera-electronics.com/rfc.htm

I live in Arizona and have an aluminum Fontana block with CHI 3V heads and matching single plane air gap intake manifold. The engine is bored and stroked to 390 cubic inches. In my opinion the aluminum lay down radiator with cooling fans on the back are the way to go. The Fontana engine uses pressed in steel cylinder wall sleeves, which I believe that the Titus block would be the same. The problem with the Cleveland engine is that some of the blocks had thin spots in the cylinder wall, which in turn can cause the car to run hot. You no longer have that issue with your Titus block.  If you want an air conditioning system that works far better than stock, move the condenser to the front of the car. With your aluminum engine, overheating won't be a problem. I did it with my car and it then gave me a place to mount an oil cooler where the air conditioning condenser was. FlowKooler makes a great 16 vane water pump that flows a lot of water, which in turn gets the water up to and through the radiator with very little effort. I have had my car in 110 degree heat with the air conditioning running and it did not overheat!

Short answer:  I have done all the mods listed on this site in the sticky section and they have worked very well and I have been very happy w the results.

I have done most of the mods to this car, the swirl tank, flow cooler water pump, new aluminum radiator w a single 16" pulling fan, shaw thermostat and cut hood.  I do not have an aluminum block but my temps are 184/186 in motion with no fan.  I live in N. central Florida and I drive this car just about every day year round.  I need my fan only in light to light traffic.  I take the car 12 miles to to town and 12 miles back just about every day. I can't remember the last time I turned on my fan and I have never seen this car over 195 unless it is low on coolant.  Like many cars, it did have temp creep when I was driving it for an hour each way, the mods fixed that although I have not done an hour run in this car in some time...

Note the Titus block should NOT have the bypass port that is used on a normal Cleland.  If Mark is building it then there should be no issues.  If you have a local builder doing it make sure they don't "fix" it by drilling a bypass port.

Rick

Titus is doing the complete build.

What are you using for cylinder heads? Just curious.

Titus Enforcer heads , looks like he makes his own.