Cooling problems deauville

Maybe a head gasket installed backwards.

just looked at a picture of the process, but the gasket was installed the right way.
I have no clue anymore!

Arno

Double check the timing? Retarded timing generates heat.

Here's how I see it:

(1) The cooling system was fine

(2) The motor was disassembled down to pulling the heads

(3) The motor was re-assembled

(4) Now there's a cooling system problem

My first suspect would be:



Does the motor make a "gurgle and surge" sound once it warms up? Or perhaps hissing?

-G

No the engine sounds fine, and runs real good. Also the timing is right, and the exhaust heathers don't get hotter then normal. The gaskets may be the problem, but if I look at the pictures when we did it, they are placed the right way.

Point is that if there was a blokkage in the watersystem, there would be a low flow through the radiator. That way the fans would never be on, because the water runs so slow, it has time enough to cool down.
But now, the fans are alway's on. So the engine produces to much heat, or the radiator is not capable of loosing the heat. It is a double flow radiator. That must be because the inlet is at the top, and the return right below. I am really puzzled what's going on.

If you look at the pic of the head gasket that George posted, notice that the bottom left corner is square, and the bottom right corner is angled. The square corner goes at the front of the engine on BOTH sides, and it protrudes beyond the head, so that it can be seen.

John

quote:

The square corner goes at the front of the engine on BOTH sides, and it protrudes beyond the head, so that it can be seen.

Nice tip John!!!

Can the cooling system hold pressure? Get a pressure tester like Summit's, pump to 15 psi (engine off), let rest for an hour, should still be above 10 psi

Well checked the gaskets yesterday, and the were mounted the rightway. But also, If the were mounted wrong, there would be no or restricted flow through the heads and cilinderbanks. The cooland would then be boiling at the rear of the engine and real cool at the front. That way there would be cold or real cool coolant entering the radiator. The fans should be off all the time, and really strange noises should be coming from the engine.

There can only be two problems, the engine is producing to much heat, or there is not enough heat transfer from the radiator.
The fans are on most of the time, so hot coolant is entering the radiator all the time, that shows a normal flow of the coolant. Also when the fans are on, they produce a big volume of really hot air at both of the fans. This shows a good routing through the radiator, and a good flow of air through the radiator.

Am I right?

So maybe the engine is producing to much heat. the timing is right, the gaskets are right, the only thing that I can think off, is that I also changed the oil, to MOTUL 300V full syn. racing oil. Had anyone heating problems when using full syn racing oil?

Arno

I had a problem like that before. I discovered that the inner lining of my top radiator hose had come loose and was partially blocking the water flow, almost the entire length of the hose. I had already replaced many cooling system parts and only discovered it when I was removing the engine and happened to look inside the hose. It was not visible from outside the hose. Just a thought.

Have you triple checked to make sure you have the correct thermostat?

Yes, I have put the thermostat in water, and heated it up, It opened at 84 degrees. Thereafter I took a new one, tested that as well and put the new one in .........

And aboud the hoses, it might probabbly be something stupid like that. But I had the hoses off, when I changed the radiator and waterpump. They looked fine to me.

Have you checked the heater core, and can you turn the lines to it off? A leaky heater core caused me grief in a Mustang I owned many years ago. I went through three of them over the life of the car.

OK, I found the problem. It had to be stupid, and it was. In Holland we have to mount big licence plates at the front of the car as well.
It has to be mounted on the front bumper. On a series III Deauville there is a rubber strip along the bumper. So you can only mount the licence plate sticking out off the bottom, otherwise it will look strange and not in place. Now it turned out that the 2 1/2 " sticking out, acts like a deflector blocking the flow to the bottom half of the radiator. I removed the licence plate and now it is OK.

What did I do before?
Changed the radiator, waterpump, thermostat, pulled the heads (there are felpro gaskets that have the same corners all around ),changed the oil and cooland.

The real fix took 45 sec's

it was one of those things you had to be there looking at the car to figure, glad you got it



so how does it run?

Yes, the bumper is connected to the hood, so if it is open you will never notice. It sat down in front of my car with a beer, and decided not to stand up until I knew what was going on. As soon I closed the hood, I knew.
Now she is running good. I am a happy man.