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Here are some photos of my new custom EFI intake manifold. I began with an Edelbrock Torker and modified it for injectors.

Anyone with experience with Earl's Swivel-Seal hose ends? I have some trouble to understand the assembly instruction.

The problem with the assembly instruction is solved. See picture.

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Last edited {1}
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I like it. It's going to be very torky.
What are you going to use for engine management?

As far as the hoses go, what is the problem?
From what I see you are ready to cut the hoses.

Take off the red ends and fit the hose length unitil it is just clear of the threads.
Put the entire fitting in a vice to hold it securely.

Slip the red ends over the hose carefully. The stainless wire bites your fingers pretty well.
Lube up the threads with assembly lube and tighten the red cap leaving about .050" clearance between the red and the blue and you are done.

However, looking at your set up. I would recommend that you buy some stainless tubing.
Switch the ends that you have now to take a flared tube nut and ferrel.

You can polish the tube and you can leave them there forever without having to worry about the rubber of the hose deterreorating.
Nice work.

I think the biggest challenge you will have is getting your hoses cut and then assembled to the proper length. It's more difficult to do than one may think, and those short straight sections will create some challenge. If you are not very precise with the length it will strain your fuel rails.

When you cut the braided stainless, I'd suggest wrapping it in tape and mark the length on the tape. I use a cut off wheel on a die grinder to cut the hose because it doesn't disturb the natural lay of the stainless over braid. It stinks up the shop but gets better results.

Remove the tape after you have slid the red ferrels on the hose and follow Dougs instructions. A littel light oil on the hose barb helps too.
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I like it. It's going to be very torky.
What are you going to use for engine management?

As far as the hoses go, what is the problem?
From what I see you are ready to cut the hoses.

Take off the red ends and fit the hose length unitil it is just clear of the threads.
Put the entire fitting in a vice to hold it securely.

Slip the red ends over the hose carefully. The stainless wire bites your fingers pretty well.
Lube up the threads with assembly lube and tighten the red cap leaving about .050" clearance between the red and the blue and you are done.

However, looking at your set up. I would recommend that you buy some stainless tubing.
Switch the ends that you have now to take a flared tube nut and ferrel.

You can polish the tube and you can leave them there forever without having to worry about the rubber of the hose deterreorating.


I will use a MegaSquirt ECU together with a Ford EDIS ignition system.

About the assembly instruction:
Place the socket in a vise and insert the end of the hose into the socket until the
hose butts against the bottom of the threads provided for the cutter. Gently pull
the hose back until there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the end of the hose and
the bottom of the threads.


Exactly how far should the hose go into the socket? Look at the picture "Hose end 2". When assembled; should the hose go further on the cutter?
Interesting idea. I have am working on my own design tubular intake made form stainless steel. I have also thought about making a pretuned EFI kit based on a modifed tunnel ram intake.

On a side note, not sure why everyone wants to use the megaquirt. It is not the good of computer and was made by guys who made many mistakes when I had a sucessfull EFI computer. I was on the EFI forum these guys were running and quit because of all the mistakes and refusal to listen to what was needed to make EFI work. I just never marketed the one I built but really should. If you want a better cheap EFI control, I would use the Holley Commander ECU. It is assembled, supported, and is only $600 for the ecu alone. It can run port or tbi and will work with ford and gm ignitions.
quote:
Originally posted by Fredrik Gustavsson:
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I like it. It's going to be very torky.
What are you going to use for engine management?

As far as the hoses go, what is the problem?
From what I see you are ready to cut the hoses.

Take off the red ends and fit the hose length unitil it is just clear of the threads.
Put the entire fitting in a vice to hold it securely.

Slip the red ends over the hose carefully. The stainless wire bites your fingers pretty well.
Lube up the threads with assembly lube and tighten the red cap leaving about .050" clearance between the red and the blue and you are done.

However, looking at your set up. I would recommend that you buy some stainless tubing.
Switch the ends that you have now to take a flared tube nut and ferrel.

You can polish the tube and you can leave them there forever without having to worry about the rubber of the hose deterreorating.


I will use a MegaSquirt ECU together with a Ford EDIS ignition system.

About the assembly instruction:
Place the socket in a vise and insert the end of the hose into the socket until the
hose butts against the bottom of the threads provided for the cutter. Gently pull
the hose back until there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the end of the hose and
the bottom of the threads.


Exactly how far should the hose go into the socket? Look at the picture "Hose end 2". When assembled; should the hose go further on the cutter?


Assemble them exactly how you have it layed out in #2.
You cannot have any wire extending into the plane of the teeth of the thread. It will strip the soft aluminum teeth off.

Even with the 40psi fuel pressure that the FI pump will make, the hose will hold the pressure with no problem.
It is good for about 800psi.
Make sure the hose is cut straight and clean.
A dremmel with a carborendum wheel works great on these. Wear a particle mask. SS dust exposure is no good for living things.

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