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distributor advice please?!

P 72panterasteveMember
Hi again everyone,

Now onto another problem. I bought a "Ready to Run" distributor - NOT MSD - and have discovered that on my 74 Pantera there is a resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. It apparently only lets about 9.23 volts reach the distributor. I am told that this new electronic distributor needs 12 volts.
My question is: Does the distributor need a constant 12 volts to run or does it require 12 volts only for start up? I have tried to source a switched source for 12 volts but when I crank the engine over the voltage drops below the required 12 volts, making it harder to start, especially when warm. I have tried running a 12 volt wire directly from the battery and it starts every time, no problem as there is no voltage drop at the battery. I do not want to take the wiring harness apart under the dash to search for the resistor wire, so I also want to know of another switched 12 volt source with no voltage drop (maybe power window fuse?) or should I run a separate wire with a fuse and a toggle switch directly from the battery? I am not a wiring wizzard by any means so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Steve
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marlinjackmarlinjackThe Machinist #5723 AMARGOSA MACHINE 'Running on Empty- Middle of Nowhere'
...The Resister wire (Blue) goes, ONLY to the + Side of the Coil! The aftermarket Electronic Distributor must be wired off a 'Switched' 12 Volt source.
In the case of My Mallory Unilite; I placed a 270 OHM Resister in line on the 12V + to the Unilite Brain/Modual. This kicks the Voltage down to 7.5 Volts to run the Modual Cooler.

If You want a Full 12 Volts upon Starting, You need to run a 'Jumper' wire from the 'Small' Output/Switched PIN, on the Starter SOLENOID, to the + side of the Coil, IN ADDITION To The Resister Wire! SO the Coil gets 12 Volts at Start-Up and then drops down to a Lower voltage for constant Running! This keeps the Coil Temperature Down!
For the Ignition I came directly off the Amp Gauge, and used a Circuit Breaker along with a Relay and a 'dedicated' Toggle Switch. Yes! It's a True 'Push-Button' Start System! The 'Key' Ignition Switch has been completely Removed!

If You wish to keep it simple, what I would do is; wire in the Jumper from the Solenoid to the coil +. Keep the Blue resister wire to the Coil +, and now wire the Distributor 'Hot' wire to the Coil +! So You will have 3 wires going to the Coil + side. One wire going to the Coil - Side (from the Dist) and the Third wire from the Distributor will go to 'Chassis' Ground. So You'll fire the Engine Up on a Healthy 12 Volts, and Run at a Lower Voltage. The Distributor will run on Less than 12 Volts! We've been doing 'It' this way for Decades. The Distributor Modual will run much Cooler and Last Longer, AND it will be (Somewhat) Protected from 'Voltage Spikes'; that can usually Burn the Brain Out! I Do NOT see You haveing any Problems with it!

I Have NO Fuses in My Cat!! I replaced all the fuses with 'Self-Resetting' Curcuit Breakers, a long time ago!...
Last edited by marlinjack
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