Engine build… just because I want to…

@LeMans850i posted:

I seriously doubt that that big slice can go anywhere… and regardless, it would be very easy to drill and tap the port from the bottom… couldn’t go anywhere, even if a bomb exploded!

I think it’s a very cool, period Correct mod.

I don't think such a big piece of metal would go very far either, but if it starts to move it will create filings that will be sucked into the engine and scratch the cylinder and the piston.

A photo found by chance on the net with fixing screws underneath:

@rene4406 could you repost the picture please

@rene4406 posted:

Yes… that’s what needs to be done on my head too…… Doesn’t take much to do that

But I leave that up to the next owner..

When you do it, just thread the insert and not the wall of the head. Drill through the insert and thread the entire hole. Drill the hole in the head so that the shaft of the bolt is snug but doesn't thread to it.

This way you can tighten the bolt in a way that it clamps the insert to the head and you are guaranteed that the bolt hasn't bottomed out in the insert.

If the tip of the bolt sticks out a little into the port, that's ok. It won't adversely effect anything.

It already has been a while.. engine block is still at the machine shop, lifter bores, oil passages restricting, crank polishing and so on…

and I play with the pretty stuff…

Reworked the oil pan…

definitely one of one.. I know overkill.. again…

nobody sees it.. but I know its there..

the drain plug sticking out was just not acceptable - and a bit of cleaning up..

and I replaced the NPT thread on the side drain with a metric machine threaded boss.. NPT drain plug in aluminum.. stupid.. each time you make an oil change half a thread of aluminum is showing up..

Do you have two bungs in the pan?

(My Avaid pan came setup that way…)

If so, you can have an oil temp sender… too.  If you get another compatible with your existing temp gauge, you can switch the senders to a single gauge on the dash with the unused switch on the console (which LM850 has already converted to a panel-mounted volt meter!).

Rocky

(LeMans, maybe you could configure a paddle switch on the steering column?)

Here is one source of the head inserts:

https://www.pricemotorsport.co...ody_ins-351c_4v.html

per the instructions:

The kit contains 8 aluminum castings. The castings are glued into position with the Miller-Stephenson glue and left to sit overnight.  Then you drill and tap and insert a button head bolt from the bottom side of the intake runner.  Now that the insert is secure. Because these inserts are pretty much to size, you should make sure during installation that no part sticks out past the port surface.

Too bad that most of that "bling" is concealed by the chassis when installed?

@jamesolc posted:

Here is one source of the head inserts:

https://www.pricemotorsport.co...ody_ins-351c_4v.html

per the instructions:

The kit contains 8 aluminum castings. The castings are glued into position with the Miller-Stephenson glue and left to sit overnight.  Then you drill and tap and insert a button head bolt from the bottom side of the intake runner.  Now that the insert is secure. Because these inserts are pretty much to size, you should make sure during installation that no part sticks out past the port surface.

Thank you for the information!!

I will put up my heads for sale soon… (anyone interested PM me)