Exhaust wrap, paint or ceramic coating?

My ceramic coated headers on my Ultima dissipate heat really well and they are directly under a fiberglass clip.

Personally I don't like the heat wrap on a bare exhaust, however I'm not sure how it would interact on a ceramic coated one.

From what I have seen a lot of people are opting for a heat deflector shield on the underside of the hood.

Julian

I agree with Julian. I have the heat deflector shield on mine.

Is this the one you guys recommend

http://precisionproformance.com/ex1075.php

That's a lot of $$ for a flat piece of stainless. If you have a local metal supplier or a water jet shop close by, I bet you can get it made for less than half of that.

Julian

Check out this thread, look at the shield Tony Ortiz is running.



Cool stuff.


180 Header Thread

What thickness of plate are most people using? Just concerned about the extra weight on the decklid struts

Hey Jon,
There are always conflicts of opinion on this one. I remember some good debate on the GT40s forum on the same topic some years ago. I ended up using fiberglass wrap. I found it very effective. Additionally, it was fantastic not to burn yourself while working on it. The story goes that there is a big down side regarding shortened life of the pipes (pipes getting brittle). I don't have any empirical evidence on this though.....

Here is my GT40. Installing the wrap took a few hours and sore hands, but the outcome looked the part well and was very functional.

You would use the thinnest sheet of stainless that will maintain its rigidity. It should not add an appreciable weight. I would not wrap bare steel as it does tend to trap moisture which will cause it to deteriorate quickly. If the headers are stainless wrap away. We used to wrap stainless turbo manifolds all the time and never had any issues with cracking from embrittlement.

quote:

Originally posted by tajon:
What thickness of plate are most people using? Just concerned about the extra weight on the decklid struts

The answer is in the other thread. 20 gauge. 22 is fine also.

You didn't read that chapter? Detention! Next you will be telling me that your dog ate your homework?

You don't need the wrap. It's gonna get cruddy looking anyway. Some people paint it with header paint as a result.

You might consider a sheet of carbon fiber too, or use some of the gold foil heat shield as used on race cars.

Thanks for the replies

Titanium ceramic coating, plus, a i/16th" aluminum shield on sail. Their is also heat shield volcanic weave on the tubs,fuel tank,You should run a phenolic spacer on your carb due to heat flow, wrapping restricts to many things, like removing the headers, the plugs, the mufflers etc. in my opinion.

I do use a phenolic spacer already. 1/16 and coating may be the ticket.

All the ideas are appreciated

Chris who made those headers, Hall?

those are "Lemon Headers" Dan Lemon Atascadero, Ca. Built on car to my specs.

Is there a good place to get that weave?

That's expensive stuff, a roll is about $250.00 the material is volcanic rock, NASCAR uses it I will get you the name tomorrow.
https://www.heatshieldproducts...and-thermal-barriers
It's Lava shield.

quote:

Originally posted by Joules:
My ceramic coated headers on my Ultima dissipate heat really well and they are directly under a fiberglass clip.

Personally I don't like the heat wrap on a bare exhaust, however I'm not sure how it would interact on a ceramic coated one.

From what I have seen a lot of people are opting for a heat deflector shield on the underside of the hood.

Julian

Julian ,
where did you find that very old picture of my Pantera? Looks a lot different now. The heat shield in this picture is the Hall Pantera version that is listed by Tajon available also from Precision Pro-Formance. It is 20ga( I believe) SS with a heat barrier attached to the back side of it. The design of it is not very detailed but I had it in the car for 10 years and it did the job. I have never had paint issues even with track time . I have since developed my own 180 deg headers as well as a more attractive heat shield which I offer in aluminum or stainless. The shield helps to reflect the heat but the real insulation comes from the material on the other side.


Ron

Here's another shot of the current shield.


Ron

Very nice Ron but I need to remember to wear my darkest sun glasses when looking at your car for eye safety?

What are your headers? Are they stainless and ceramic coated? I don't see any bluing on the tubes? That's why I ask.

Did you move the lift cylinders away from the headers or was that in anticipation of running roll bar braces through that space eventually?

On my car there isn't enough room for those braces without moving the lifts out of the way.

Ron what do you recommend for the heat barrier

Doug,

These are both customer cars. Both have ceramic coated mild steel headers . The current offering is basically the same configuration in stainless steel with merge collectors . Here is a set before polishing made for a 351W.
The lift cylinders do not need to be moved to install the 180deg headers. I am a big fan of this IPSCO shock system mostly because of the geometry change that it incorporates which pushes the decklid out and open as opposed to straight up . I have seen countless decklids cracked where the hinges weld on. WHile the IPSCO design probably won't completely eliminate that situation, I'm certain that it relieves some of the stress.

These are the same stainless pipes after polishing.

Another .....

Ron. They look great. In my experience though, the stainless is going to blue from the heat like chromed headers do?

Do you have similar experience with the stainless?

I've seen stainless that has been ceramic coated but I'm not sure what the advantage of that is other than the lack of potential rust on any of the tubes?

I don't know exactly how the coater did mine but it is difficult to find a spot anywhere internally that is bald of the ceramic.

That makes me think that the stainless is not necessary? I always had difficulty bending the stainless without crinkling it on tight radius bends. Yours look great. I'm sure that you found a better way?

Maybe just a better alloy of the stainless tube?


I agree on the deck lifts. The first time I put new lifts on it, the flanges of the hinges got torn out of the deck lid itself. Probably right where you say you see the cracking. That's all very thin steel sheet right there coming into an intersection.

Nothing that should have been stressed out like this BUT I'm sure that even now some cars have not shown the weakness in the area. NO ONE expected these cars took last this long and even if the builders were to be honest, they probably didn't care or didn't expect it?

Ironic though in that impugning the quality of work to an Italian craftsman is like challenging them to a duel?


I was working with Jon Haas on a non-pressurized lift cylinder, or more correctly tying to, but the project is shelved.

His system uses an air compressor for the lifts.

I have a slight disagreement with him in that I want to see those as electric and not needing the air compressor.

He's the electronic circuit genius on this stuff so until he is ready to go back and put some time into the entire thought process, I'm doing other things.

The beauty of electronic lifts is that it doesn't need the burden of the compressor, that there is no pressure in the lifts when the deck is closed, and it fits into the concept of power locks throughout the car.

There you would use a two frequency fob like we get on the current production cars now.

Unfortunately one customer like me is not going to pay for the "infrastructure" investment on his part to even just aid in the project.

Maybe you should email him to encourage him in that direction?


On the shield of the decklid, for me, just the air gap separation the shield creates is enough to save the painted surfaces.


Incidentally if you saw what happened to my decklid with the replacement gas struts you would have to think that the struts pushed the decklid out wards because the opposite and equal reaction to that pressure was in effect to pull the hinges out of the decklid.