An engine fire long ago destroyed OE sound deadener material on engine side of fire wall.

Any suggestions on an appropriate sound deadener to replace it?

Can dynamat or equivalent take the heat? Can it be painted over or covered up with something else to make it look a little nicer?

Original Post

Hi Larry -

I would think Dynamat would take the heat, and I made Stainless Steel Body Panels that cover the back of the firewall.  That would hold the dynamat (or whatever insulation you decide to use) solidly against the firewall. 

I'll post up a link to my #5357 Thread tonight - but the pictures are pretty early in my build thread...




Cabin side insulation is intact on firewall and bulkhead cover so we're going to leave those surfaces alone. For now it's engine side only.

The project bulkhead cover has two metal fingers projecting from the bottom that engage two slots in the bulkhead framing. I don't see them in the photos above? 


Seems like you ultimately piled on a few layers there. Original stuff, added insulation layer, metal panel. Did it cause you any pain later putting the gas tank back in? Any undesirable contact between tank and metal panel?

I'm thinking maybe just the DEI product. At the moment the intention is to get to know and enjoy this car for a year or two before she comes apart again for the full monty.

The DEI stuff seems to run about $10/s.f. Speedway motors has best price I could find.

Hi Larry -

I have what I would consider "minor interference" with a few spots on the tank.  I solved this by putting a few strips of an adhesive backed neoprene material between the tank and the cover. 

It's really there for my own mental happiness.  I certainly didn't have to force either the tank or the cover into place.

I can't say that about every car.

The biggest interference problem I had was with my "outboarded alternator" for the bulkhead reduction kit.  That required me to cut a section out of the SS panel on the passenger side.


firwallI made a one piece aluminum firewall cover with 2 layers of insulation behind it and a silicon bead on the top to keep moisture out.  I choose a diamond plate pattern because I knew I wouldn't be in there polishing it very often and a smooth finish would probably show more dirt.  It's pretty easy to do with the engine out by carefully making a cardboard cutout first...  


Photos (1)

I made my own stainless firewall cover out of brushed stainless steel. I didn't want a mirror polished surface in the engine compartment that I'd never be able to keep clean. 

I made a cardboard template by taping together a bunch of sheets of printer paper to cover the entire firewall from the engine side, then rubbed the side of a socket against the top edge lip that secures the engine screen and side covers, and also the center opening, which resulted in giving me the perfect trace line to cut, and transfer to cardboard.  I then fitted the cardboard a number of times and made minor adjustments and cut the various holes for hoses, etc. before transferring the template to a 2'x4' sheet of flat brushed stainless.  I left the stock asbestos insulation on the engine side of the firewall and lined the back side of my new stainless cover with Dynomat, then screwed it to the firewall, sandwiching the original asbestos.

I imagine you could find another suitable (or even more efficient) insulation to replace the stock asbestos. You could always use one of these products for heat insulation, then line your firewall cover with Dynomat for a little more noise insulation.

And here's a less expensive alternative to Dynamat...

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