Engine Bay (Oval Firewall Hole Plug)

McMaster Carr carries plugs but not sure if they have anything to fit.  I did the same mod but didn't plug the holes.

plug caps | McMaster-Carr

Classic Mustangs have those plugs , cover  the holes from the rear shocks.

not a 100% fitt , but they can be used.

Simon

For those that want a more finished engine bay, it is fairly common to weld over and smooth the unused factory cutouts and holes.  It is time consuming and messy work, and requires a lot of bondo and sanding.  After it's done, it looks nice.

Hi Steve,

Nice work.  Did you paint it in a booth or with a spray can?   I'm considering redoing mine once the engine is removed.

Thanks,

John

#3590

That's a nice satin black , what paint code did you use?

Great timing. I too am in the process of doing this. I was leaning toward gloss black to match the exterior.

I plan to weld the extra holes except for the ones for the Turbos. :-).

@jwelch68 posted:

Did you paint it in a booth or with a spray can?   I'm considering redoing mine once the engine is removed.

The top coat is Spray Max 2K satin black from Germany.  It is two part automotive paint in a spray can.  It looks mostly like a normal can but there is a second nozzle on the bottom the can.  You flip the can over and  use the supplied plunger to FIRMLY push the nozzle down until it clunks.  The clunk indicates that hardener is released into the paint.  They say you have up 24 hours to use up the can but I try to make sure I use it up ASAP to avoid a clogged nozzle.  It's not cheap at around $33 per can.  The spray nozzle is volume adjustable, and the spray pattern can be turned from vertical to horizontal.  I used their 2K primer as well.  It is so much easier to work with this stuff than liquid paint and a compressed air gun.  No paint to spill.  No hose to rub onto the paint you sprayed. No gun to clean.  Minimal overspray.  The outcome looks like it was done in a professional spray booth,  The finish is as durable as any automotive paint.

https://www.summitracing.com/p...dEAQYAyABEgJ4qfD_BwE

@MattT posted:

Great timing. I too am in the process of doing this. I was leaning toward gloss black to match the exterior.

Matt, I think gloss black looks awesome.  However, it shows every speck of dust, especially on a good paint job in the engine bay.  My friend had it in his engine bay.  He would wipe down the gloss black before taking the car out.  When got there, the paint would be dusty.  The satin gets just as dusty but you don't see it.

@stevebuchanan posted:

The top coat is Spray Max 2K satin black from Germany.  It is two part automotive paint in a spray can.  It looks mostly like a normal can but there is a second nozzle on the bottom the can.  You flip the can over and  use the supplied plunger to FIRMLY push the nozzle down until it clunks.  The clunk indicates that hardener is released into the paint.  They say you have up 24 hours to use up the can but I try to make sure I use it up ASAP to avoid a clogged nozzle.  It's not cheap at around $33 per can.  The spray nozzle is volume adjustable, and the spray pattern can be turned from vertical to horizontal.  I used their 2K primer as well.  It is so much easier to work with this stuff than liquid paint and a compressed air gun.  No paint to spill.  No hose to rub onto the paint you sprayed. No gun to clean.  Minimal overspray.  The outcome looks like it was done in a professional spray booth,  The finish is as durable as any automotive paint.

https://www.summitracing.com/p...dEAQYAyABEgJ4qfD_BwE

Thanks for the info Steve.  Any idea how many cans of primer and paint you had to use?

John

@stevebuchanan posted:

Matt, I think gloss black looks awesome.  However, it shows every speck of dust, especially on a good paint job in the engine bay.  My friend had it in his engine bay.  He would wipe down the gloss black before taking the car out.  When got there, the paint would be dusty.  The satin gets just as dusty but you don't see it.

Great point, Now I'm questioning myself. Maybe this is why my projects take so long.  Mine started out pulling the engine to fix oil leaks, now I'm going with a full roller stroker and changing to a -2 ZF to better handle the power. Will it ever end?

John,

Most of the work is in the bondo.  Our engine bays look flat and smooth but are far from it.  Hence, it takes a lot of primer coats to find and fill the low spots.  It goes faster for those that are good at body work.  Plan on at least 8 cans of primer.  After primer is complete, top coat is relatively easy.  Maybe plan on 6 cans of satin black for the entire engine bay.

Thanks Steve!

I have some of theses grommets in stock, if you are interested please PM me, thanks and Happy New Year