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I seem to have a real stubborn lower front ball joint to remove and don't want to use a pickle fork separator for fear of damaging the dust seal any further. I tried a tie rod separator, (the puller type) and that won't seem to touch it and wants to spread the lower jaws after I get too much pressure on it. The trouble is to get anything heavier in there is going to be a problem. Any suggestions? Are replacement dust boots available if I destroy it during removal?

That's the short story, actually, this all came about as I have been removing the shock spacers. I was on my last one, but the lower shock through bolt is seized in the bushing center so I thought it'd be easiest to remove the shock and lower A -arm to separate the two...how wrong I was!

Thanks
Julian
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I had this info buried under a pile. can't remember where I heard it, might need some verification...

"for upper rear ball joints boots, an effective replacement is made by Energy Suspension. They are called Tie Rod End Dust Boots part # 9.13119G. They do require minor trimming but are heavy duty and work great. I get them from a local Off Road Truck performance shop."



John
Steve
A lot of the under carriage parts were used by a few other
manufacturers, such a Ferrari/Maserati and Lamborghini.
A friend of mine in Sydney now works for Ferrari Australia
but he used to work in the
Detomaso factory as well back in Modena.
I bought my A frame bushes from Ferrari for $40 aus.
Thats orginals parts.
Dennis Big Grin
Dennis, Steve,

Here's a response from John Taphorn from the De Tomaso mailing list on the subject of the replacment boots. (All credit goes to John and I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him here on the PI board Smiler)

quote:
Suitable replacements are made by Energy Suspension. They are sturdier to
the originals and have held up well for years on my car. The part numbers
for the larger ball joints ( upper rear & upper and lower front) are
9-13119. I have found that if I trim ~ 1/8" around the base I get a better
fit. For the smaller tie rod boots, use part #9-13101. The 1/8th" trim
applies here also.

I recently ordered additional supplies and replaced the dust boots on a
current restoration project. I found it easiest to contact Energy
Suspension via phone from a number off their website and inquire about the
location of local dealers. When I called these dealers to determine
inventory, they had inadequate supplies; but, were willing to have them sent
to my home from their warehouse saving me considerable hassle. Two come in
a package that sells for under $4. Terrific deal!

I'll get on my soap-box for a moment and encourage everyone with torn dust
boots to replace them. With the suspension completely apart on my project
GT5, I took the time to carefully inspect the lubrication of the tie rods;
even those with mildly cracked dust boots. I was taken aback as to how poor
the lubrication held up in this environment. The lubrication was dry and
gritty. After cleaning thoroughly with brake cleaner, I zerked the ball
joints and applied fresh grease. When drilling the for the zerk, I found
the cavities above the balls to be void of lubrication.

My point it that the ball joints are expensive and the effort to replace the
dustboot and zerk the joint for new grease was minimal. I would recommend
the exercise to others.


Julian
Steve,

In looking for an aftermarket brake kit I note that Dennis Quella at Precision Proformance has replacment boots listed at $30 ea.

Seems steep if the Engery Suspension ones do the job at $2 ea, but some guys like to stick with vendor products.

Julian
So now I have the ball joint done, I guess can move on....

Man talk about never ending and growing out of all proportion, this started off as unseizing a caliper...removing the shock spacer (ah, thats where it all started to self propogate)...rebuilding and painting the shock...new suspension bushings and now I guess I'm gona have to paint the A arms.

Anyone tried powder coating their A arms? I kinda like the look of that super shiny chrome powder coat or is that gonna be just too bling? Way cheaper than Aluminum billet arms though Smiler
What a beautiful joint! I used stainless steel zerks and polished them.
I went with the black boots also. I thought that the colored ones would be cheezie.
Powdercoating is overrated. They like to flake near the welds.
I blasted my suspension and used Rustoleum satin black. It is slower to dry then other paints but once it is dry it lasts a long time, You can wipe it down with a damp rag or even Armorall it.
The Krylon black gives a more concours look to the suspension. It is easier to use and doesn't run, dries fast.
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