Can any/all of the ball joints be drilled and tappped for a grease fitting ? Sure dont want to find out the hard way that it cant be done !
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Jack DeRyke suggests doing just that. I did the lower fronts on 2511 and though I hit the bottom of the inner ball (gently), I got enough of a hole to tap, insert the zerk and it accepts grease.
I believe this is the same for all the ball joints.
Larry
I believe this is the same for all the ball joints.
Larry
I did the next best thing to having a zerk on the ball joint. I made a little tool for getting grease in without removing the rubber. I soldered a zerk nipple onto the end of a 6" long piece of copper brake pipe. I then attached one end to my grease gun and flattened the other end with a hammer just enough to be able to stick it down the side of the ball joint rubber. This is only possible if the A arms / tie rods are detached from the hubs.
I use that expensive molly grease, and it seems to work quiet well.
Remember, you will have to file off the zinc plating from the zerk nipple before the solder will take to it.
Johnny
I use that expensive molly grease, and it seems to work quiet well.
Remember, you will have to file off the zinc plating from the zerk nipple before the solder will take to it.
Johnny
...Jonny, that's fine, but all you are doing is filling up the rubber boot with grease. To Do any good; The grease has to be forced into the 'Top' of the Ball so it squeeses over/between the 'Load bearing' SURFACES, forcing out the old grease and dirt. The dirt is the 'grinding tool' that wears out the joint; along with the 'Metal to Metal' contact, when the Ball and Seat go dry. Filling the boot will NOT build up enough pressure to force any grease into the ball seat, it will just keep running out of the boot opening. I would like to know what the persons that have drilled the tops of these ball joints have done to prevent the metal 'Drilling Chips' from entering the cavity. I assume that they just figure the chips won't do very much damage, at least not as much as the joint being allowed to go 'Dry'. Interesting!...
Marlin,
Point taken. Maybe it was not such a great idea after all. I may help on the lower front, where gravity is helping it work it's way into the ball joint. But the opposite is true of the other three.
Johnny
Point taken. Maybe it was not such a great idea after all. I may help on the lower front, where gravity is helping it work it's way into the ball joint. But the opposite is true of the other three.
Johnny
Jonny, I agree with you, gravity would work it into the lower joints. I apologize if I sounded like a 'Know-It-All'. Your Idea is Very creative! Merry Christmas! and 'God Save The Queen!!' Regards,
Thanks everyone, for the replies. I did a search and found you can drill and tap all the joints. The rear would require a fitting extention to reach down into the recess. Checked with a couple part stores today and so far no one has them. Does anyone here have a brand name or part # ?
quote:Checked with a couple part stores today and so far no one has them. Does anyone here have a brand name or part # ?
I found a mixed selection, straight, and 90 degrees, at....Pep Boys ;-) NAPA should have them, too. Extension may take a bit of looking.
1/4 x 28 thread size
Larry
Merry Christmas from me and the Queen!
Ron
Thats exactly what im looking for ! Did you tap them with a regular 1/4-28 tap ? Not much depth there, thought maybe it would need a bottoming tap ? Good pic too. My rear A arms are slightly different than yours. They have 2 pieces of metal that are two different thickness in the gusset area.
Mike
Thats exactly what im looking for ! Did you tap them with a regular 1/4-28 tap ? Not much depth there, thought maybe it would need a bottoming tap ? Good pic too. My rear A arms are slightly different than yours. They have 2 pieces of metal that are two different thickness in the gusset area.
Mike
Mike, I did use a regular 1/4-28 tap. You're right, not much depth or meat to tap into but enough for the zerk to grab and hold. A bottoming tap might work best, but I think I used a standard tap. I also believe I carefully drilled through the plastic-like material enough to allow the grease to flow directly onto the metal ball. A also drilled and tapped the control arm so I can grease the bushings.
Ron
Ron
Ron,
It sure is great to get some advise from someone who has been there and done it. This forum and the email list are a great help to us all. A big THANKS to the people who take care of all the Pantera information...........
Mike
It sure is great to get some advise from someone who has been there and done it. This forum and the email list are a great help to us all. A big THANKS to the people who take care of all the Pantera information...........
Mike
OK....Got the extended fittings from NAPA. Drill, tap and they went right in. I filled the "void" area around it with JB weld and sanded it smooth. Sprayed them with some gloss black urethane...they look great. Now...the replacement grease boots will not go on. No way no how. Im told there are 2 sizes of replacement boots...4 large for the front ball joints and 4 small for the tie rod ends and rear ball joints...Is this true ? The rear ball joint is bigger than the tie rod....