Head problem??

Also could the head issue possible be a timming issue if a valve is bad?

Maybe... Air bubble in the Passenger side head? Did you do the "Jack the Front - Jack the Back" fill technique?

There is also a really recent thread about T.Solo's vacuum Snap-On cooling system bleeder.

Filling a Completely Dry Cooling System


Rocky

...the one thing I know of, to make the Engine Boil-Over SO quickly, is a 'Stuck Shut' Thermostat.

Been sitting for 14 Years!? The Radiator is Cool, the Hot Coolant is NOT getting to It!

I also like Rockys' idea of the 'Air Pocket' in the Head/Block. Preventing the Waterpump from Circulating the Coolant!
Just like an 'Embolism'.

The most likely, even though it is UNLIKELY, is that the cap on the pressure tank isn't sealing at all.

You need to pressure test the entire system first. Then test the cap.

Buy or rent the Stant pressure testing kit. It's about $120 but it is worth it. It won't go to waste.

I don't have the temperature chart in front of me but I think that with no cap, the system will "boil over" at something like 215 degrees.

With the pressure cap, 16 pound, working and 50/50 anti-freeze, it won't boil over until 252.

That seems to be the most likely scenario.

Even if you have a new cap 1) sometimes they are bad out of the box 2) you may have a cap that is not compatible with the European filler neck on the pressure tank 3) even pressure test a new cap to be 100 % certain it is ok.

You do not want to be guessing at anything on a Pantera. For one thing, it is too difficult a car to work on and forget about having to fix it out on the road.

A pressure test will be the next step. The radiator cap is the one that comes in the(turn key radiator kit) from PI. could it be the water journal in the passanger head is clogged? Sea foam a good idea?

And when the pressure does build up and i open the valves on the radiator air did come out but then i had a nice steady stream of HOT lol coolant come out. New water pump was installed 4 months ago

The system had to have been drained when the pump was changed but that doesn't mean it was filled properly.

Pressure test everything first, including the cap. Then go to the next step.

The radiator was the first thing i did when i got the car. It was doing fine was setting timing the other day thats when it blew the cap. Today i replaced my oil pan gasket and had to remove the resevior water line. When i filled it it burped twice big time. My gauge said 200. And there was a 40 degree diff in the head temp. Measure on the same spots in the middle of heads

Did the old front down low back up high.. Haha sounds funny. Still gettin 200 after 5 mins or so of just idleing. When i open the bleeder on the radiator t burps a little then stream. Close it and it burps a little more air. I think i have a air bubble.? And had to add quite a bit of fluid again. But my oil is clear no wAter

If your description is accurate, the temperatures are accurate, it can't be boiling over. It isn't hot enough.

Hot spots in the head are an indication of air in the system.

What water pump are you using? Does it have the bypass hole drilled in it? The Wieand doesn't.

What thermostat is in there? Are you sure it is for the Cleveland and not the Windsor?

Marlin here is really the expert on that subject. Perhaps he will help you with that part?

Check the exhaust for signs of anti-freeze.

Did anyone have the heads off recently? Sometimes one of the head gaskets gets put on backwards?

There is antifreeze on the headers when it burped. The water pump is one from autozone and the thermostat came from pi with the kit

would you have the link to the PI "kit"?
did it provide a "plate" to go under the thermostat?

do you have the heater core in service?

quote:

Originally posted by Bumblebee13:
There is antifreeze on the headers when it burped. The water pump is one from autozone and the thermostat came from pi with the kit

...pressure test...pressure test

I do not have a link but it is call the turn key kit. All pantera overheating problems solved. No i havnt done anything with the hvac system

And no there was no plater

When I bought my new cooling lines from PI they supplied a Windsor stat. It is the wrong one. You need to order the correct one from Marlin and maybe a plate to go under it if yours is missing.

Steve

Did they tell u it was the wrong stat?

quote:

Originally posted by T.Solo:
....the correct one from Marlin and maybe a plate to go under it if yours is missing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351C-B...%26sd%3D171717825664


did you notice what type of "plate" was installed. I have got info from vendors that sell a solid plate!

Nope i guess i got the wrong damn part mine just looked like a regular thermo

...First..Thank You My friends for the Vote of Confidence.

To Bumblebee, I sell the Thermostats and Restrictor plates on Ebay (just search '351C thermostat', and see 'My Other Items').

As a courtesy, I am posting this to tell all, I just Sold-Out, Yesterday, of the 180F Robertshaws. I have 10 on back-order with my supplier. That order was 'suppose' to arrive "...in the middle of May". My supplier has been 'Out of Stock' of the 180F for the past 3 Months. As of now, I am still waiting. Ofcourse, when they Do arrive, they will immediately be re-listed on Ebay, both singularly and in a 'Bundle' with the R. Plates). You will get a 'Heads-Up' here.

However! The 195F is Still Available, and I have them 'In Hand' and ready to ship. The Brass plates will always be available, as you know, I will create them for as long as I can obtain Brass Sheet, and blood runs through My veins.

I am here to Help, and I Thank You All for Your Support!

As for now, good-luck with it!

The Cleveland has a unique thermostat design. In my experience it works just fine with the correct parts.

It would appear that our friends at PI switched you over to a Windsor design thermostat without so much as a hint?

Not so good.

If you do that, then you use the water pump without the bypass hole in it like the Wieand.

This may be causing you the issues you are experiencing?

questions...(having trouble trying to word them)

If you use a water pump with out the bypass hole, even with the proper thermostat, will there be warmup flow just through the heads?

If you use the wrong thermostat and the pump with bypass hole, with a wide open (hot) thermstat, does part of the pump flow recirculate and not go to the radiator?

If you use the wrong thermostat and a solid restictor plate, with a closed (cold) thermostat, will there be warmup flow just through the heads? With a wide open (hot) thermstat, will all flow go to the radiator?

Hope this makes sense in what I am trying to ask

...For JFB. To the best of My Knowledge, and therefore In My Opinion:

1. NO! BEFORE The Thermostat heats up enough to OPEN, the coolant WILL warm and 'girgle' between the heads and block. But Will 'NOT' circulate THROUGH the Waterpump, as there is NO bypass port.. BUT! The coolant Will 'see' a 'Static' pressure from the 'positive' flow 'Side' of the pump.

2. Yes! If the Wrong Thermostat (WITHOUT the Copper Skirt) is used, AND/OR the Brass Restrictor Plate IS Missing, the Coolant will FOREVER circulate around and through the Block and Heads. When the Waterpump DOES HAVE the Bypass Port! NO matter if the Thermostat is OPEN or CLOSED. AND NOT even if the CORRECT Thermostat, with Skirt, IS Used! IF the Restrictor Plate IS MISSING! And there Will Be a 10% to 15% LOSE of Coolant flow, that WOULD Otherwise, have Gone to the Radiator. And THIS is what Causes Over-Heating on a Hot Summer Afternoon! OR, This May JUST be seen as 'Running Hot', Hotter than Normal. What is 'Normal'? I'am NOT sure! Some say 220F. Some 230F MAX! 'I' would think...A Temperature NOT 'Boiling Over'! This would all depend on a 'Tight' Pressure Cap, Holding the Pressure! I Run a 16 Pounder.

3. Again YES! But this One's Tricky!
If You install a SOLID Bypass 'Restrictor' Plate You are In Fact, CLOSING OFF the Bypass Port, and there will be Absolutely NO 'Warm-Up BYPASS Flow' to the Block or Heads! The Coolant will Heat-Up MUCH FASTER, BUT ONLY WITH-IN THE ENGINE! And since there will be NO Circulation of the Coolant until the Thermostat BEGINS to OPEN; this can cause HOT Steam Pockets within the Heads. Because the Stat is Not as 'Sensitive' to the Temperature Rise, as the flow is Not passing by the Thermostat. And the Engine will Not warm-up Evenly. And You ARE Correct, once the Stat is open, ALL of the Coolant WILL Flow Directly to the Radiator! And In that case You can use pretty much, ANY Thermostat! You just will NOT have the 'First Start EVEN Warm-Up' of the Engine. NO matter if the Pump has the bypass Hole Or NOT. NO matter if the Thermostat is correct with the Skirt...Or NOT!

I have seen the Aluminum Plates with a 'Tiny Pin Hole'. Not much flow, Not a very Even warm-up! Would cause 99% of coolant to flow to the Radiator, All of the Time..Once the Thermostat has OPENED. AND You would have the same problem stated in #2. Also, The aluminum will eventually dissolve, Over Time, Fall out and Jam in the Waterpump (worst case senerio), The Brass will last a virtual Lifetime, with barely a Stain of Tarnish. That is how I found the 43 Year Old Plate I pulled from My Cleveland Block!

I have tried to keep from being too confusing. I may have made mistakes. If this posting has created more questions, post them up, and I will get back to it. I welcome Your thoughts and Experienced Ideas. I don't claim to know Everything about the cooling system of Our Intriguing Cleveland. Add Your thoughts to this post, that's how we all learn!

To All, I Thank You!