HEI distributor for summit racing has anny one installed

The problem is that the diameter of the distributor might be too wide causing it to hit the bulkhead. Good luck.

You need a distributor with the same dimensions as the original.

Even the large diameter caps from Ford will not clear the window.
To continue that thought, with Webers or a Weber like EFI induction system, you need a small cap distributor to fit between the banks of carbs.
The Pantera is unique, or almost unique in it's requirements.
Some things on the surface would seem simple but they are not.

I would recommend the Ford/Motorcraft pointless distributor and control box with the small cap.

It has proven to be the most dependable over all of the other possibilities and you can get replacement parts for it virtually anywhere.

You also need to stay with a proven unit that has not shown problems with breaking the roll pin that holds the camshaft drive gear in place.

DO NOT assume that all aftermarket distributors will not break there, because many will.

My Unilite works just fine. Why is the size an issue? You want a distributor with a small cap. You also want something dependable and easy to maintain as Doug pointed out. I carry a spare module for the Unilite with me.

The HEI uses the GM style big cap. There isn't any question that a larger cap is better for reducing crossfire but it won't fit into the confines of a Pantera engine compartment as the compartment was built.

The cap is larger in diameter and taller with the coil built into it.

The Pantera "firewall window" slants towards the rear 15 degrees or so.


The Mallory, if anything uses the most compact size cap I can think of. It's a good fit.

It doesn't have a bad reputation for failing in the middle of nowhere for no apparent reason like the MSD does.


If you haven't had an MSD failure yet, wait, you will.

I think it's an MSD 8350 ??...

I carry a spare trigger for the Unilite distributor and a spare rotor with the "windows" for the optical trigger.
A small cap on any brand distributor is a must for clearance.
I never miss a chance to recommend the Mallory power filter for Unilite users. Mallory more or less admits there is a failure caused by surges and spikes.
Summit has them on sale now.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29351/overview/

"Even the large diameter caps from Ford will not clear the window" Not necessarily.
Early cars no, later cars yes. I have a big cap Duraspark dizzy in 7102 that fits like factory. A solid 1" clear to the fire wall. Considering your VIN 6976, you may be fine.

How much room do you have between the glass and the spark plug boot?

look like it mite fit.
but I may have a bigger problem the drive pin was broken and I only found part of it a bout 3/4 the other part is some place in motor .
I looked for it with mirror but don't see any thing.
Is this a big problem or would it have fallen in to oil pan.

quote:

Originally posted by pantera74Bills6976:
look like it mite fit.
but I may have a bigger problem the drive pin was broken and I only found part of it a bout 3/4 the other part is some place in motor .
I looked for it with mirror but don't see any thing.
Is this a big problem or would it have fallen in to oil pan.

Problem? Depends on how you interpret that?

More times then not, the pin or part of it will get sucked into the oil pump and either jamb it or damage the gears?

If the pump continues to run and then the bits get passed through into the reciprocating part of the engine then it's kind of like shrapnel from a hand grenade?

They COULD miss you but I wouldn't count on it?

Not sure if it counts because I am running a Windsor but I had an MSD dizzy (full size cap) in mine and now have a DUI (HEI) distributor in the car without any clearance issues.

HEI distributor will not fit cap to big and it also look terrible. looking threw old postings it looks I mite have to take motor apart .

This is how a Duraspark fits in a late car.

Is the Duraspark a good fit for the Pantera.

quote:

Originally posted by larryw:
This is how a Duraspark fits in a late car.

I have stainless panels on the firewall with 1-1/2" rigid foam beneath. That explains my clearance issue.

I will repeat, the Duraspark big cap dizzy will not fit an early car. I don't when things were rearranged in there, but it fits fine in my car, #7102 and Vinh's car #7445.
I'm pretty sure #6976 would be similar.
Lots of info on electrical details for the swap on the forum.

The Duraspark distributor is the same size whether you put a big cap or standard cap on it.

Certainly the distributor will fit. It's up to you to decide if you want the large cap or not.

My car ran a big cap for a while (#5357), but I was having problems with the big cap interfering with air cleaner base.

It has been a good system for me.

Rocky

The MSD 8477 distributor is narrow, high enough to clear aftermarket intake manifolds, yet low enough to clear the engine screen. It employs the Ford Duraspark magnetic pick-up and will therefore function with the Ford Duraspark ignition modules. The wire color coding is identical, but the connector is different; it will require splicing wires or fabricating an adapter. Its quite a bit nicer distributor than the Ford distributor, made from billet aluminum, uses bearings instead of bushings, and has an advance mechanism that is easily accessible and easily re-curved. Whereas people have trouble with the MSD electronics all the time, their distributor is a nice reliable component.

Just something to think about.

I ordered the MSD unit . The engine shop that built my engine also builds many racing engines they said they always install MSD units and have very few that have had problems.
They also told me not to worry about the pieces of pin that are missing the oil pump has a screen on it . told me to pick up a oil plug with a magnet on it . THe magnet should pick up pieces

If you are intent on running the larger cap, and need a bit more clearance to the firewall, you can bend the sheet metal trans mount ears into an "S" shape. This trick can gain 1/2" clearance, or more, by shifting the entire powertrain rearward. You may also have to drill new thru holes on the tops of the engine mount flats.

George can the MSD connector just be re-pinned to match the Duraspark module connector?

quote:

Originally posted by 4V & Proud:

... can the MSD connector just be re-pinned ...

No

FYI.
MSD recommended I run the 351W equivalent distributor on my 351c for more clearance as it is slightly shorter. I have no problems with a dropped base air filter and a stainless firewall. You do need to swap the distributor gear. The caps are the same.
http://www.msdignition.com/upl...9600_msd_catalog.pdf
Page 97

The MSD is taller but fits fine but now cant get motor to run . The motor cranks back fire a little but will not run. The distributor was put back in the same spot as old one. The old one was remove with distributor facing number one wire; check coil with timing light it is working . check voltage to coil it is good checked top dead center . five or six times check wires for times . pulled plug sparking but looks weak.

quote:

Originally posted by pantera74Bills6976:
The MSD is taller but fits fine but now cant get motor to run . The motor cranks back fire a little but will not run. The distributor was put back in the same spot as old one. The old one was remove with distributor facing number one wire; check coil with timing light it is working . check voltage to coil it is good checked top dead center . five or six times check wires for times . pulled plug sparking but looks weak.

I read what you said I understand that you think you put it in the right way but the symptoms that you are describing is that the distributor is installed 180 degrees out of phase, and I remind you that you were asking for other opinions?

what's the voltage to the coil with the key in the Run position?

what part number MSD did you get?

is it a 'stand alone' distributor or does it require an ignition box of some kind, what are you using?

quote:

Originally posted by pantera74Bills6976:
The MSD is taller but fits fine but now cant get motor to run . The motor cranks back fire a little but will not run. The distributor was put back in the same spot as old one. The old one was remove with distributor facing number one wire; check coil with timing light it is working . check voltage to coil it is good checked top dead center . five or six times check wires for times . pulled plug sparking but looks weak.

Did you remove the ballast resistor? When switching to electronic ignition, you must remove the resistor that is necessary with a points ignition.

OK found the problem the harmonic balance came loose. replacing it with new one what a pain in the ass. New problem two blue wires run to the negative side of coil. the one with black stripe looks like it goes to the tac where does the other one go

quote:

Originally posted by pantera74Bills6976:
OK found the problem the harmonic balance came loose. replacing it with new one what a pain in the ass. New problem two blue wires run to the negative side of coil. the one with black stripe looks like it goes to the tac where does the other one go

One goes to the tach, the other goes to the distributor points (originally), or the distributor trigger wire in your electronic situation.

Do you have the model number of the distributor you are running?

Sorry my computer had to be repaired .What a pain in the ass it was getting my car to run not only was the harmonic balance a problem but the wire running across dash was no good .At first I thought it was the coil. The car would start but ran very bad. The coil had voltage but not enough when car would start. The wire was aluminum. Was it a resistance wire.

Yes. The wire from the ignition switch to a spade connector in the passenger footwell is a resistance wire, from the spade connector to the coil is a regular copper wire. I think the insulation of the resistance wire is a slightly darker blue than the regular wire.
On the wiring diagram the spade connector appears as a dot.

Do I still need this wire to be aluminum . I replaced it with a heavy copper wire. Do I need to put a resistor on coil. A friend said even with a new Mallory supper spark coil you need a resistor.

quote:

Originally posted by pantera74Bills6976:
Do I still need this wire to be aluminum . I replaced it with a heavy copper wire. Do I need to put a resistor on coil. A friend said even with a new Mallory supper spark coil you need a resistor.

No resistor. With an electronic ignition, you need to run full voltage.

I have had problems with Mallory Unilites distributors failing in the past so for my new engine build I was recommended to use the Pertronix Ignitor 111. Seemed a good value distributor and positive write ups on different forums.

Looking to put the engine in the car in the next week or so but reading this thread and others the question is it going to fit my car, chassis no 5174.

Its a larger cap and seems a taller distributor so I would sooner change it now than find out it wont fit with the engine on the crane half way in the car.

I will not be running the centre engine cover. My worry is the slant and angle of the bulkhead and rear window. Is 5174 classed as an early or late car. See pics of dissy installation below

Cheers

second pic